Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow.. i thought it was really rare to still have a boost restrictor still in place. I heard they have a yellow band around the hose where the restrictor is.. did yours have this and is it obvious? Where was the hose?

I dont think you will have any problems. Ive got a 32gtr and i couldnt find this boost restrictor so I assume its gone and car runs perfectly fine. To my understanding, the car was designed to run the full boost anyways and it was just one of the ways to reduce the power to 206kw for japan. saying this.. im not a trusted source of info so maybe someone else can confirm

I had a search here and basically everything i said was wrong.

Im assuming now that my restrictor is still in there somewhere. I might look for it tonight.

So yeh, running more boost means your giving the turbos a tougher time. You dont want your turbos to shit themselves thought as the debris from a rooted exhaust wheel could damage your engine.

Wow.. i thought it was really rare to still have a boost restrictor still in place. I heard they have a yellow band around the hose where the restrictor is.. did yours have this and is it obvious? Where was the hose?

from memory there are two hoses coming off the "boost soleiniod"

about an inch down from the soleiniod on one of the hoses was a yellow band of paint (0.5cm thick),

i squeezed it and could feel something solid was in there,

took me 5mins and i am no good with cars

It dose seem to make a VERY loud rush of air sound at boost.

dont know how normal that is

I will take it to cruz this week and get some more advice

that is if no one knows what i mean about the sound

Edited by Y2K

yep thats the hose to pull the olive out of and always will give you a dead accurate 14.5 psi, the turbos are fine on that boost if they arnt in to bad condition, just make sure if you have a computer to get it tuned

yep thats the hose to pull the olive out of and always will give you a dead accurate 14.5 psi, the turbos are fine on that boost if they arnt in to bad condition, just make sure if you have a computer to get it tuned

If i only have the stock computer will i have problems with the engine running lean

yeh... but now with 14.5 psi, things might be different.

maybe the fuel pump isn't up to the task?

I was mainly refering to the thread owners.

but if you have gone from 10 - 14.5psi, it's be worth re-checking surely.

it's not like it's cheap to build these rb26's... even to stock level...

$50 is cheap insurance and piece of mind.

if I ever get an RB26 powered car, it will defeinitely have a compression check, leak down test, all new fluids, new plugs, and a dyno run.

a little outlay up front but good cheap (in the grand scheme of things) insurance.

OK dyno is booked for AUG 1st (he will do all combinations of equip eg with out boost restricter, put boost restricter back in and combos with anything else getting put in) so i will post results incase people are interested

It was also mentioned to me that changing the cam sprockets

would be a good AND gentle mod to perform

What say ye SAU

nah man it's just the GTRs i think

my R32 GTSt and GTS4 don't

R33's done either, they do have a solanoid you can put a switch on though and run higher boost at lower rpms(33s have a controller to run 7psi at below 4000 i think it is, then switch to 10psi or whatever it is standard)

you could also look out for a bleed tap, there is an article in the DIY section i think about a ball valve type bleed valve, which is meant to be an excellent controller :) and a lot of people have thrown away(well sold) there electronic ones and replaced it with the tap, it only costs round $22 as well :D

the main problem you will face now is keeping your license intact...enjoy! Standard turbs will last fine on 12psi (except maybe extended track use)

niggah wot?

i spent 2 years thrashing my standard turbo 32 GT-R at just over 15psi (including 4 track days) and it was still going strong, lol

I removed my boost restrictor almost 2 yrs ago, runs 14-15psi (up from11) and no dramas. power jumped from 198-230rwkw with just addition of apexi panel filter and removal of restrictor.

So no aftermarket computer ? When you run it on a dyno were the fuel mixtures within range?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
    • Twas your car many moons ago that gave me the idea!
×
×
  • Create New...