Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wow.. i thought it was really rare to still have a boost restrictor still in place. I heard they have a yellow band around the hose where the restrictor is.. did yours have this and is it obvious? Where was the hose?

I dont think you will have any problems. Ive got a 32gtr and i couldnt find this boost restrictor so I assume its gone and car runs perfectly fine. To my understanding, the car was designed to run the full boost anyways and it was just one of the ways to reduce the power to 206kw for japan. saying this.. im not a trusted source of info so maybe someone else can confirm

I had a search here and basically everything i said was wrong.

Im assuming now that my restrictor is still in there somewhere. I might look for it tonight.

So yeh, running more boost means your giving the turbos a tougher time. You dont want your turbos to shit themselves thought as the debris from a rooted exhaust wheel could damage your engine.

Wow.. i thought it was really rare to still have a boost restrictor still in place. I heard they have a yellow band around the hose where the restrictor is.. did yours have this and is it obvious? Where was the hose?

from memory there are two hoses coming off the "boost soleiniod"

about an inch down from the soleiniod on one of the hoses was a yellow band of paint (0.5cm thick),

i squeezed it and could feel something solid was in there,

took me 5mins and i am no good with cars

It dose seem to make a VERY loud rush of air sound at boost.

dont know how normal that is

I will take it to cruz this week and get some more advice

that is if no one knows what i mean about the sound

Edited by Y2K

yep thats the hose to pull the olive out of and always will give you a dead accurate 14.5 psi, the turbos are fine on that boost if they arnt in to bad condition, just make sure if you have a computer to get it tuned

yep thats the hose to pull the olive out of and always will give you a dead accurate 14.5 psi, the turbos are fine on that boost if they arnt in to bad condition, just make sure if you have a computer to get it tuned

If i only have the stock computer will i have problems with the engine running lean

yeh... but now with 14.5 psi, things might be different.

maybe the fuel pump isn't up to the task?

I was mainly refering to the thread owners.

but if you have gone from 10 - 14.5psi, it's be worth re-checking surely.

it's not like it's cheap to build these rb26's... even to stock level...

$50 is cheap insurance and piece of mind.

if I ever get an RB26 powered car, it will defeinitely have a compression check, leak down test, all new fluids, new plugs, and a dyno run.

a little outlay up front but good cheap (in the grand scheme of things) insurance.

OK dyno is booked for AUG 1st (he will do all combinations of equip eg with out boost restricter, put boost restricter back in and combos with anything else getting put in) so i will post results incase people are interested

It was also mentioned to me that changing the cam sprockets

would be a good AND gentle mod to perform

What say ye SAU

nah man it's just the GTRs i think

my R32 GTSt and GTS4 don't

R33's done either, they do have a solanoid you can put a switch on though and run higher boost at lower rpms(33s have a controller to run 7psi at below 4000 i think it is, then switch to 10psi or whatever it is standard)

you could also look out for a bleed tap, there is an article in the DIY section i think about a ball valve type bleed valve, which is meant to be an excellent controller :) and a lot of people have thrown away(well sold) there electronic ones and replaced it with the tap, it only costs round $22 as well :D

the main problem you will face now is keeping your license intact...enjoy! Standard turbs will last fine on 12psi (except maybe extended track use)

niggah wot?

i spent 2 years thrashing my standard turbo 32 GT-R at just over 15psi (including 4 track days) and it was still going strong, lol

I removed my boost restrictor almost 2 yrs ago, runs 14-15psi (up from11) and no dramas. power jumped from 198-230rwkw with just addition of apexi panel filter and removal of restrictor.

So no aftermarket computer ? When you run it on a dyno were the fuel mixtures within range?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...