Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the back of the car i put the stands under the frame of the suspension. There is kinda of solid frame work around the drive shafts near the diff. Like U shaped. But yeah i just lift up the back with the jack under the diff or something then slip the stands in under this frame work.

sometimes i just lift the car up n put bricks under the wheels then let it back down so that its then higher up off the ground. Depends on what you want to do.

I am starting to consider gettins some ramps to get the car off the ground faster and less mucking round.

You could put the stands under teh chassis or something. I do that sometimes but thost shitty stands from auto barn dont seem to have a wide enough top on them and it kinda starts bending teh chassis tubing.

I also put a block of wood between the trolley jack and the chassis if lifting there just to ensure i dont damage the car.

peice of wood on top of a troley jack..

Under front cross member..

or rear diff..

ever had a piece of wood slip from under the trolley jack? ive seen it happen a few times. 1 cracked a radiator, the other took out the whole power steering system from the car slipping off it. dont do it.

of your jack isnt big enough dont try, and if your worried about wrecking the cross member, you wont.

So many mechanics like to jack the cars by the sills. My sills haven't been touched. that's why I work on my car myself.

I know that bending the sills probably doesn't do anything, but i like my car to be perfect, so i don't want someone coming along and bending them!

Hmm I just remembered bout this paddock bomb subaru i had. This car was so rusted out that when y put the jack on the sills n tryed to lift it up, the jack would just push the whole floor up. Was finding it hard to find some solid parts. Think we ended up just lifting it by the diff and crossbar.

heres some other recommended jack points.

post-29392-1184303842_thumb.jpg

If your lifting the whole car up jack under the front x member, put in front stands on the sill jacking points. Then jack under rear diff and place rear stands on the sill jacking points.

You should get some sill protectors - bent up metal like your normal scissor jack - make sure you put locator tabs on the underside to stop them slipping on your stands, you can buy some rubber blocks with a slit cut out for the sill join (hard to find) or make up some hardwood blocks with a slit cut in them to take the sill join (that's what I did). Car has sat on stands like that for months with no ill effects.

I can't understand why people would put their car on stands knowing they are going to crush the sill join without some appropriate blocks. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's awesome. Fully serviced/full log book history for one of those cars is super rare from what I know. With JDM's like Skyline's, Supras, are quite hard to find one with full log book history. S15's seem to be somewhat of an exception, at least the spec s australian delivered models.
    • Hey all, It's been a bit since I have been able to update.  I pulled the fuel pump, first off it was a "universal" pump and the strainer was very clogged, and it was folded over on itself.  I replaced the fuel pump and all is well....  No more stalling.
    • That's convinced me I'll bump up the G30-660 to 770   Any idea if the difference in boost pressure? Cheers
    • When: Saturday 24th of May 2025 - All day Where: Sydney Dragway, Eastern Creek Cost: Varies - Book direct with the GTR Festival Website We will be there on the day with a stand please reach out via our interest form if you wish to help out with the stand. Limited parking will be available in the display area, first in first served with current members getting priority, please register your interest with the link above also. Please post any great photos you take on the day on this thread and we will try use some in our e-mails/website/social media
    • Hey guys so turns out this project is going to be much bigger than I thought haha but I've done some my homework and have done a few panels on my car, but one part I can just not visualise is this. If I do a spot repair and I put filler in a dent for example and sand outside of the repair with 320 grit lets say so the primer can stick as I will only put primer on that repair and the surrounding area and then repaint the whole panel. Don't I need to make sure that I don't put primer on the old clear coat? I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down, it's still shiny. I thought putting paint on clearcoat or primer on clearcoat is a bad idea because it won't stick. So in this scenario it's a bit different to mine but imagine someone doing a spot repair and only painting that small section of repair but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat. What am I missing?
×
×
  • Create New...