Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I dont think this is a major problem. I dont understand why people feel the need for huge launches at the start of runs sure it heats the tyres up but at the end of the day unless u are on a very short run up to turn 1 you can generally keep up plus u have a shit load of grunt 310kw i dont imagine there would be to many cars running rd that would really leave you for dead once you are up an going

In saying this if you feel this is a problem try as Majanal has said an raise the rear of the car. I have also heard of guys having less air pressure in there tyres to gain traction as there is more give.

i wouldn't have posted if it wasn't a problem, there are a few guys with a better power to weight ratio than me. i have tried softer rear springs and have taken some more weight out which helped a bit, but i'm still having trouble getting traction. can someone please explain how raising the back can help, i can't get my head around it. wouldn't you lower the back to transfer weight over the rear wheels?

as soon as the weight transfer stops where do you think the resulting reaction goes soon as the shocks gets to their lowest point.straight to the tyres.but then on lift (rebound)the tyres will begin to spin because the rear end will become lofty.

thats why having the rear end raised is a good idea for traction purposes.and thats why drag racers do it this way.

i couldn't keep up with the 300 on the the weekend dan, probably a good thing cause it might have been costly when you spun.

Yeah, sorry about that one mate, I of course didn't intend to spin in front of you.

We picked the 300 up a bit in the rear and it made instant changes to the drive off the line.

I wonder if the tyres are affecting it? Are you going to Oran this weekend?

its all in the rear geometry, what sort of traction rod mods and cradle angle mods are you using?

Remember to set up the traction rods you need to set it up on a wheel aligner without the rear shocks and simulate wheel travel and andjust them to the pont where there is as little toe change over the travel as possible (use you ride hieght as the cetre point). Secondly we had the same issue at eastern creek where the wheelworx car got way off the line and cat lost the second battle purely on lack of proximity. Changing to super pineapples extra 6mm inclination on the cradle has now fixed the launch issue and helped alot with drive out of corners.

check your lower control arm bushes too, i have seen huge dynamic changes in toe due to worn lower bushes.

Yeah, sorry about that one mate, I of course didn't intend to spin in front of you.

We picked the 300 up a bit in the rear and it made instant changes to the drive off the line.

I wonder if the tyres are affecting it? Are you going to Oran this weekend?

i was going to, but i am going to vic on the 8th instead

its all in the rear geometry, what sort of traction rod mods and cradle angle mods are you using?

Remember to set up the traction rods you need to set it up on a wheel aligner without the rear shocks and simulate wheel travel and andjust them to the pont where there is as little toe change over the travel as possible (use you ride hieght as the cetre point). Secondly we had the same issue at eastern creek where the wheelworx car got way off the line and cat lost the second battle purely on lack of proximity. Changing to super pineapples extra 6mm inclination on the cradle has now fixed the launch issue and helped alot with drive out of corners.

check your lower control arm bushes too, i have seen huge dynamic changes in toe due to worn lower bushes.

how should i set up the cradle? do you sell pineapples? my lower control arm bushes are worn out, i'll change them before the next round. now to find a wheel aligner with patience. :laughing-smiley-014: thanks for the advice.

Edited by DRIFTER

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AFM looks to be a z32 The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc The turbo tag when looked up seems to be a gt2871 , imagine it would have the bigger rear housing .82 all look like the mid 00's mods when he started building it up. Vac hose seems right but would need to see a diagram. Great work going up there and sorting it out, be a good club car for someone wanting a good reliable rig.  I know I would like to have it but no space and too many other race cars at the moment.
    • Heys guys I got a r32 gtst speedo is out by 10kph seems the faster I go the more it be out  just seeing if anyone else had to problem and knows how to fix it 
    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
×
×
  • Create New...