Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The 2835 Pro S and GTRS are quite close in performance i believe, i know they're different but just doesn't seem to be much on paper.

So, when considering the 2835, the exhaust flange will definatley need to be custome made from what I've read and seen.

And i think you need an extra spacer to stop it touching the engine block.

THere's a thread on the 2835 install somewhere and there were a few headaches to get around but obviously do-able and worthwhile.

On the other hand, the GTRS is an easy swap out using the stand zort flange. Easy peasy.

I think you can forget my last post.

I can't remember which turbo i was thinking about??? but i do remember that bent bit of wire that's in the pics.....

Just found a thread on the install and it looks sweeeet.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;p=1742392&

Yeah, most turbos you;ve mentioned have T3, don't worry about that.

Just some people don't advertise all options on their sites so be sure to do thourough seaching before giving up.

Nengun.com has the kits for both showing the T25 and T3 options, that's where i usually start my searching.

Edited by Birnie

I seriously stay steer clear of the 2835Pro S and 3037 Pro S (is there even such a thng?). These turbos perform much better with an external gate. the pro S versions having internal gate compromises their exhaust housings a lot. external gate is the go.

NOT exactly bolt on but i put together a kit for a guy in NSW last month.

T67-8cm with manifold gate etc...

over 213rwkw from 3000 and peaks at 270rwkw @ 17psi better all round HP and torque (up to 35-40kw down low) over the Garret GT35 that it replaced.

if anyone went to DA round 3 at eastern creek it was the Yellow R34 in super drift putting on the biggest smoke show of all the cars there.... tuff setup... best R34 GTT RB25 setup i have ever driven actually.

i will get his dyno graph to post up.... super responsive with decent top end. Not much more than 270 is possile with the 8cm rear though.... need to upgrade to 10cm to crack 300rwkw.

I still reckon from how my GT3076R drives that a bolt on GT3037 from HKS will meet most of those requirements. They will pull hard to redline, have excellent response, make good power, and have an awesome midrange whack.

If I did it all again, I'd not go smaller than a GT2835/GT3071R but not go bigger than a .82a/r GT3076R.

is ur turbo GT3076R .82ar?

when does it come on full boost in 3rd?

how would you think it compares to the HKS 3037 equivilant?.

do you think a .71 custom gtst housing would be good?

im taking the plunge and im stuck on turbo choice, also.

cheers,

Edited by silverbulletR33
The 2835 Pro S and GTRS are quite close in performance i believe, i know they're different but just doesn't seem to be much on paper.

So, when considering the 2835, the exhaust flange will definatley need to be custome made from what I've read and seen.

And i think you need an extra spacer to stop it touching the engine block.

THere's a thread on the 2835 install somewhere and there were a few headaches to get around but obviously do-able and worthwhile.

On the other hand, the GTRS is an easy swap out using the stand zort flange. Easy peasy.

2835 pro s is a bolt-on, if you buy the kit, it fits perfectly and comes with the dump pipe already. didnt take me long to install mine the only problem i found was that when tring to tighten the bolts that connect the turbo to the manifold it was tight fit to get the socket in there.

Also you dont need a dump pipe gasket if you but the KIT, as after tring to find one for my kit, i ended up calling HKS and after them sending me the wrong gasket 2times they told me they made a mistake and the gt2835 pro s kits dont need a gasket at all, ive been running mine for almost a year without a gasket and no problem at all!

I seriously stay steer clear of the 2835Pro S and 3037 Pro S (is there even such a thng?). These turbos perform much better with an external gate. the pro S versions having internal gate compromises their exhaust housings a lot. external gate is the go.

internal gate is ok! lol ive got one, much cheaper going internal too :D

what car do you have and is the engine using stock internals?

R33, my engine internals are all stock, my engine has done 100,000km and i made 350hp @ 16psi without a problem

is ur turbo GT3076R .82ar?

when does it come on full boost in 3rd?

I have a .63a/r, I have full boost ~3500rpm in 3rd - very hard to tell because it sweeps past those revs too quickly, which has to give some kind of idea of what its like :P

how would you think it compares to the HKS 3037 equivilant?.

do you think a .71 custom gtst housing would be good?

Depends on which GT3037... the 56Trim GT3076R will spool exactly the same as a 56T GT3037 running the same turbine a/r.

I think I'd be happiest with a .71, it spools REALLY quickly for the size with the .63 (easily quick enough) but the extra increase to .71 would probably make it a little more progressive and allow it to flow a bit better up high.

Me and a mate actually drove each others cars back to back this weekend actually - he has a R32 GTSt with a S2 RB25DET running stock turbo still. Driving impression, his is way better than mine up to 2500rpm under foot... then 2500rpm to 3000rpm his is noticeable better but nothing exciting, then from 3000rpm onwards mine feels like its made up all the difference and is keen to show stock turbo who's boss.

Hey Lithium don't suppose you have a dyno graph handy?

whats your peak power/boost used to get there?

Im watching with interest because Im close to upgrading myself and am sorta tossing up between the HKS GTRS or a garrett 3076 .63 rear but 52T. . .

emphasis on mid range but with 300+ hp atw

internal gate is ok! lol ive got one, much cheaper going internal too :(

well yeah they are ok, but for 300rwkw on a GTT or GTST I would definately be going external. the IG housings of turbos this size are not such a good compromise. i mean you know what the shape of the IG 2835 is... not good. sure the IG 2835 kit is cheaper but it's not that expensive to go External and for 300rwkw it's a better option.

Hey Lithium don't suppose you have a dyno graph handy?

whats your peak power/boost used to get there?

Im watching with interest because Im close to upgrading myself and am sorta tossing up between the HKS GTRS or a garrett 3076 .63 rear but 52T. . . emphasis on mid range but with 300+ hp atw

How much more than 300hp? The area of around 300whp-350whp I'd just go with a GT3071R. I haven't had a full tune as the car has had a niggling boost control issue for ages, its getting a bunch of stuff changed over the next month which part of the result should be better boost control.

There are dyno plots on here of people using GT3076Rs though...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...