Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest B34ST GTR

Hey all,

Just had my power Fc D-jetro and Profec B elec boost controller fitted yesterday!! :laughing-smiley-014:

Hyper Drive in malaga did the job and did it pronto aswell.

Pre Fc/boost cont. Dyno was 279 hp

after FC/Boost cont. Dyno was 309 at 1.0 bar boost

pretty decent gain i thought?

However the tuner told me to keep an eye on the fc's knock reading as a mid to low 30's reading is the norm, however a knock reading of 50 is near detonation therefore call me!

i went on a two hour car cruze from carpark to car park and was getting a pretty consisent 32-36 but i did get a 41-43 at one stage.

Does anyone have any idea what this situation is good/norm/bad? before i call the boys at hyperdrive today i just wanted some other feedback.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176386-knocking/
Share on other sites

readings around 15-20 are just road noise. I somehow hit 108 once in fourth with a lot of load very scary moment but has not done it since

ummmm no... 15-20 is not road noise. Its knock. On the highway my car sits on 1 - 2 knock consistantly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176386-knocking/#findComment-3228358
Share on other sites

Well I get a reading anywhere from 0 to 120 when the clutch plates rattle on start up!!!

Don't get too paranoid or read too much into PFC knock readings. As a rule they are not very repeatable - what may give you 10 on one particular day will spit out a 20 with a different batch of fuel on another day.

Having said that a consistant mid thirties is pushing it. Probably best to plug in your lap top & hoover out a degree or two of ignition advance on some of the load cells. If you don't have a lap top you will need a mate & a video camera....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176386-knocking/#findComment-3239668
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
but i thought that 15-20 knock figure was mainly attributed to road noise

bit late on my reply i realise...

I dont see anything over 1 - 2 knock while driving. And full throttle generally dont see anything over 8. So i deffinately wouldnt jump into a car that is continually sitting on 15 and assume that that all is fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176386-knocking/#findComment-3265041
Share on other sites

Hey All,

I've got a power fc but no hand controller (getting one soon though), so I cant check this setting. I've been told the check engine warning light in my dash detects the same thing - detonation. Does anyone know what relative value it comes on at, like 20-30??

Cheers!

Gagz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176386-knocking/#findComment-3265176
Share on other sites

Guest B34ST GTR

i have had people telling me anything over 15 is a problem, getting me all worried, but i have spoken to many people on the topic now and have found that anything under 50 is fairly normal provided it is only a peak figure and not consistantly sitting on 40's.

Whenever i get a high figure like 40-45 i refresh (by pressing right arrow on hand held) immediately and it has always returned down to a norm of 5-15..

high readings i have found, are a combination of, a bit of load, maybe a bump in the road or an overly aggressive stab on the throttle or a rough shift.....but definately not a direct result of giving it a bit at full boost.

thats my thoughts anyway - correct me if im wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176386-knocking/#findComment-3271561
Share on other sites

Thanks, thats good to know.....if thats conservative, then the rest of the guys are worrying about nothing when they are reading 30s.

Cheers!

Thats what i call selective listening. One person out of a large group of people tell you what you want to hear so you believe it? 60 knock is not conservative at all. And anything over 30 is heading for disaster.

Edited by fEkuaR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176386-knocking/#findComment-3271954
Share on other sites

I think it is easier to forget the numbers all together and look at the bar. If the bar is large and not moving around, then it is more likely to be knock than if it is spiking etc.

Also don't forget the old fashioned way of measuring knock and that is to listen for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176386-knocking/#findComment-3273235
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...