Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone point me in the direction of a dealer that supplies greddy intake plenums for r34 gt-t?

Dont think they exist, but can use an r33 one, notsure if the rail/injectors bolt up though, i know the copy's fit r33 and r34 though. Try some of the business traders, crd and others should be able to help you at a good price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176429-intake-plenum/#findComment-3227973
Share on other sites

peter from advan 02 96471326 he is a dealer or autobarn or rhdjapan.com these guys are good

Advan were removed from distributorship......

there is a thread somewhere where i posted pic on how to install R33 plenum on R34.

DisregardKW KINGS post as it makes no sense... there is no cutting required.... PLAZAMANS gear is overpriced.... if your on a budget a copy greddy would be a better option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176429-intake-plenum/#findComment-3229907
Share on other sites

Advan were removed from distributorship......

there is a thread somewhere where i posted pic on how to install R33 plenum on R34.

DisregardKW KINGS post as it makes no sense... there is no cutting required.... PLAZAMANS gear is overpriced.... if your on a budget a copy greddy would be a better option.

advan got the flick ,interesting ......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176429-intake-plenum/#findComment-3230530
Share on other sites

hey can anyone point me in the direction of that install pic uras is talking about. If found lots of threads talking about it but no real installation help.

and if anyone knows what a good throttle body for it would be that'd be good as well.

Edited by Craney
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176429-intake-plenum/#findComment-3231181
Share on other sites

After some deliberation I also went with the greddy. Price was definitely but not the only factor. There is still some dicking around with the greddy but at least they try and make it easier by providing the neccessary vacuum and water ports plus the necessary bolts, hoses, clamps etc to assist in the task.

I had difficulty locating a q45 so I went with a new aftermarket 90 mil throttle body, we had no probs mating it to the plenum and the standard throttle sensor just hooks straight up to it. You will need to have a throttle cable made up but its no biggie.

My bud tried the Greddy copy but ended up giving it away simply because there is just too much work to do locating and fitting the above mentioned ports etc plus it didnt sit too flush with the head anyway so required facing before he could even start.

GL with whatever you decide but for me I am way happy with the Greddy choice. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176429-intake-plenum/#findComment-3232052
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...