Jump to content
SAU Community

Bleeding Clutch

The Dan

By The Dan,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
evers. Contributor

evers.

Posted
Posted

My clutch is not engaging until right at the floor, still drivable but you can feel it should have more to it.

I've bleed the slave cylinder as mentioned above but its still the same?

The Fluid dampener you spoke about, Can that be bleed as the same process of Open, Pedal down, Close and then pedal up?

I was told it was a heavy duty clutch but not sure on what kind exactly, i had a quick sus by moving the rubber from underneath and seen an extreme purple plate.

Is there anything else i should be looking out for?

  • 1 year later...
D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

So i had a good read of this thread and came up with the solution.

After bleeding the master.

On the slave cylinder If the bleed nipple is not at the high point, it wont bleed the air out.

post-89755-0-65855700-1378958539_thumb.jpg

So i took mine off, with a bit of tape to stop the piston coming all the way out.

Then i held it with the bleed nipple at the high point, and opened the bleed, pushed the piston in, closed the bleed, let the piston out.

Repeat until all air is gone, keep an eye on the fluid level up top.

post-89755-0-85601000-1378958890_thumb.jpg

Rinse well and get all the brake fluid off.

post-89755-0-45933200-1378958956_thumb.jpg

Works! :banana:

  • 2 weeks later...
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On the slave cylinder If the bleed nipple is not at the high point, it wont bleed the air out.

The bleed nipple should always be at the high point. If it's not, it's in the wrong hole or you bought the cylinder out of the wrong end of China

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah right.

Thats what you get for buying a car from idiots. Bits put together wrong. So many....... Anyway, another one to fix.

Ill swap them around.

It's not such a bad thing. Of course bleeding is a pain in the arse but that's about it. Make sure before you swap it around, you check to make sure the banjo fitting has a machined surface to crush the copper washer against. I have seen some cylinders actually made incorrectly. In those cases, you will need to leave it as is.

  • 2 months later...
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

why not reverse bleed slave to master?

- empty reservoir

- push new oil from can from slave to master, then no bubble

i reckn this is better

You should try to avoid pushing air into the master cylinder. It is bad practice. There are places where the air can be trapped and you will have difficulty getting it out.

That's why you should always bleed the master cylinder on the bench before fitting a new one.

I'm unsure how you would feed fluid into the slave cylinder anyway. if you're just attaching a hose to the nippple and the hose sits in the bottle of new fluid, that won't always work either. It is quite easy for air to be drawn past the threads of the bleed nippple into the system.

This method may have worked for you though. I'm not saying it won't. I'm just saying it is less likely to work in all situations but moreso it can cause problems not easily diagnosed.

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...
ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
Posted

Did this today as I replaced my master and slave cylinders. I already have a braided line so I only needed to bleed master and slave. I was fairly anxious about getting this right and went back and forth bled both until I was satisfied. I found it was easier and I had more control bleeding the slave by myself by pushing in the fork as it allowed my to do it slower and therefore see exactly the condition of fluid coming out. I did have an issue with the pedal only half responding in its normal way when I thought I was done, so I just got under and re-bled it all until I actually got all the air out and the clutch responded as normal. Went for a test drive and everything works really well now, so am happy with getting this done.

Caddy Apprentice

Caddy

Posted
Posted

Yeah also doing this today. Clutch pivot snapped and I've ended up with a new clutch etc. When the pivot point snapped, the slave rod bent out to the side and in order to get it back in I needed to drag the boot off of the end of the slave. Need to fill the entire thing with no pedal tone at all. Fun fun. -_-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Front LSD Quaife , how streetable ?- QDF3L Owners

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • Kinkstaah
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • GTSBoy
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • GTSBoy
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
    • PLYNX
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Yup but for me its the HR ! Cut my teeth on the old holden 6s in the day ! And here's me thinking in the day it was also the 300ZX and the Mitsubishi GT3000 ! All, as well had good lines, but always seemed to need finishing off, style wise.
×
×
  • Create New...