Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

One VERY BIG factor that needs to be considered is the health of the internals BEFORE turning up the wick. A motor that's had a hard 100k before it gets into your hands may well fail at 250rwkw. A fresher motor might hold on 30-40k or even longer?

How many kays does the motor REALLY have on it when you get the car?

My motor was putting out over 200+rwkw for 2+yrs (not many kays travelled though) I REALLY looked after the engine too (the whole car in fact). I'd say that the engine would have lasted quite a bit longer with a more mild turn. And slightly less power.

My motor cracked a ringland on #6. Not an uncommon point of failure in the RB25DET.

StraightSix, although the squish zone is changed, it would be aruable that it is eliminated, only increased. It may not be as effective as the stock setup, but this is more than compensated for by the reduction in CR - this is evident by the many 300rwkw RB25s being built in Japan, with stock internals. Even Ben Ellis, who is doing a RB25 build in HPI magazine is following this philosophy. He has spent a large amount of time in Japan around performance cars, so if it were that detrimental, would he still be doing it?

Hi drift_me_silly, you priced this stuff yet? Let me have a go....

-new r33 gtr crank

$1400

-custom je forged pistons

$1800

-carillo rods

$2200

-nizpro crank girdle

$3000

-electric w/pump

$400

-cryo treatment of internals/block & head

$300

That's $9,100 without any labour or top end work. Shoot I could build an RB31 bottom end for way less than that. In fact a complete RB30/RB25 hybrid would be cheaper.

Hope that adds to the discussion

The quench debate is very valid. Theoreticly you want your quench distance (the height of the compressed head gasket plus the distance the piston is down the bore at TDC) to be no more than say, .055 inches, preferably closer to .045, although this depends on your setup and i'd ask someone knowledgable, dont want valves to be hitting pistons now do we. Quench does make a BIG difference to detonation, its vital in a good engine build.

The best way to lower compression is not through a thick head gasket, but rather getting a dished piston really.

Originally posted by Steve

StraightSix, although the squish zone is changed, it would be aruable that it is eliminated, only increased.  It may not be as effective as the stock setup, but this is more than compensated for by the reduction in CR - this is evident by the many 300rwkw RB25s being built in Japan, with stock internals.  Even Ben Ellis, who is doing a RB25 build in HPI magazine is following this philosophy.  He has spent a large amount of time in Japan around performance cars, so if it were that detrimental, would he still be doing it?

It is true that the reduction in compression ratio more than makes up for the loss in squish. However using dished pistons and keeping the squish would allow you to run a slightly higher CR thus improving low-end response.

J

Was it not in zoom they had a turbo comparison on an RB25 which was "internally standard". Although it did have a different plenumn on it, the power was something like 306rwkw. The guy who i bought my car off is building a RB25 180, at 4000rpm it had 240rwhp. I dont know an overall power figure but it had std manifold and internals.

I think not only is it a major factor as how old the engine is, but also the tuning of it. With poor tuning a standard engine will blow up, so to say that because one blew up with 400hp at the flywheel doesnt mean that thats the limit of an RB25. Many people i have talked to on the coast have said that the limits (with correct tuning and as long as the internals are fine, with all the correct parts ie injectors, turbos) for the RB25 is a bit over 300rwkw, with the RB20 being around 250rwkw.

Originally posted by StraightSix

..... slightly higher CR thus improving low-end response.

J

boost and higher CR generally dont mix, loosing a bit of bottom end, well if you are running 300rwkw, you wont have a great bottom end, and nor should you expect one with a 2.5L engine. But at least with RB25 you have the VCT which compensates, which the RB26 doesnt have.

Its always a trade, top end, bottom end or midrange.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...