Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

One VERY BIG factor that needs to be considered is the health of the internals BEFORE turning up the wick. A motor that's had a hard 100k before it gets into your hands may well fail at 250rwkw. A fresher motor might hold on 30-40k or even longer?

How many kays does the motor REALLY have on it when you get the car?

My motor was putting out over 200+rwkw for 2+yrs (not many kays travelled though) I REALLY looked after the engine too (the whole car in fact). I'd say that the engine would have lasted quite a bit longer with a more mild turn. And slightly less power.

My motor cracked a ringland on #6. Not an uncommon point of failure in the RB25DET.

StraightSix, although the squish zone is changed, it would be aruable that it is eliminated, only increased. It may not be as effective as the stock setup, but this is more than compensated for by the reduction in CR - this is evident by the many 300rwkw RB25s being built in Japan, with stock internals. Even Ben Ellis, who is doing a RB25 build in HPI magazine is following this philosophy. He has spent a large amount of time in Japan around performance cars, so if it were that detrimental, would he still be doing it?

Hi drift_me_silly, you priced this stuff yet? Let me have a go....

-new r33 gtr crank

$1400

-custom je forged pistons

$1800

-carillo rods

$2200

-nizpro crank girdle

$3000

-electric w/pump

$400

-cryo treatment of internals/block & head

$300

That's $9,100 without any labour or top end work. Shoot I could build an RB31 bottom end for way less than that. In fact a complete RB30/RB25 hybrid would be cheaper.

Hope that adds to the discussion

The quench debate is very valid. Theoreticly you want your quench distance (the height of the compressed head gasket plus the distance the piston is down the bore at TDC) to be no more than say, .055 inches, preferably closer to .045, although this depends on your setup and i'd ask someone knowledgable, dont want valves to be hitting pistons now do we. Quench does make a BIG difference to detonation, its vital in a good engine build.

The best way to lower compression is not through a thick head gasket, but rather getting a dished piston really.

Originally posted by Steve

StraightSix, although the squish zone is changed, it would be aruable that it is eliminated, only increased.  It may not be as effective as the stock setup, but this is more than compensated for by the reduction in CR - this is evident by the many 300rwkw RB25s being built in Japan, with stock internals.  Even Ben Ellis, who is doing a RB25 build in HPI magazine is following this philosophy.  He has spent a large amount of time in Japan around performance cars, so if it were that detrimental, would he still be doing it?

It is true that the reduction in compression ratio more than makes up for the loss in squish. However using dished pistons and keeping the squish would allow you to run a slightly higher CR thus improving low-end response.

J

Was it not in zoom they had a turbo comparison on an RB25 which was "internally standard". Although it did have a different plenumn on it, the power was something like 306rwkw. The guy who i bought my car off is building a RB25 180, at 4000rpm it had 240rwhp. I dont know an overall power figure but it had std manifold and internals.

I think not only is it a major factor as how old the engine is, but also the tuning of it. With poor tuning a standard engine will blow up, so to say that because one blew up with 400hp at the flywheel doesnt mean that thats the limit of an RB25. Many people i have talked to on the coast have said that the limits (with correct tuning and as long as the internals are fine, with all the correct parts ie injectors, turbos) for the RB25 is a bit over 300rwkw, with the RB20 being around 250rwkw.

Originally posted by StraightSix

..... slightly higher CR thus improving low-end response.

J

boost and higher CR generally dont mix, loosing a bit of bottom end, well if you are running 300rwkw, you wont have a great bottom end, and nor should you expect one with a 2.5L engine. But at least with RB25 you have the VCT which compensates, which the RB26 doesnt have.

Its always a trade, top end, bottom end or midrange.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm thinking that this is such a small part of the problem that you could easily forego the vac pump and just achieve 90% of what you need, which is keeping the gate open when off boost. It's not as if there are not already techniques to keep a gate fully closed under boost. After all, you have boost. Just use a wastegate actuator that will allow you to apply the boost on the appropriate side, just like every external gate out there.
    • Heres another fitment photo. redrilled the pattern to 5x112, and threw my audi´s rims on. had to touch the upper control arms with grinder, because the "sharp corner" was sticking about 2-3mm on the tire path. i have the "fender lip" mostly cut off, otherwise these (too) would contact with it. 20x9.5 ET25 rear    265/30 20x8.5 ET20 front    255/30 they are temporary, and look too big for the chassis. searching for 19s to it.
    • From experience, it will come back to bite you haha.
    • Background: my BMW 225i hatchback (rebodied MINI/X1) came with 3x RE003 and 1x Goodyear Asymmetric something. The RE003 roared and slid around, the Goodyear side was quiet and grippy. Definitely my car was thrashed before it got sent to dealers. My brother also got RE003 all round on his old VA WRX STI, I wasn't impressed with them, car was loud so can't comment on noise. Anyway, Hankook stopped making/updating V12 Evo2. So bought S1 Evo3 runflats. Great daily duties tyre and not that harsh ride. Tyre reviews site/youtube rated them as best stopping in the rain and I believe them. Next set, Goodyear Asymmetric 5 non-RFT. It beat PS4 in tests and is like $100 cheaper, so put them on. Great tyre, more grip then S1 Evo3 but a tad noisier as expected, still rocking them. Next set I am looking to go runflats, probably the new Hankook Evo. Although the new Pirelli PZ5 did well in tyrereviews test. Or go Goodyear Asymmetric 6 which was top tyre last year. The V12 Evo2 on my gen5 Liberty GT wagon did great in cold condition (drove to snowy mountains for a day so my husky can feel his ancestor's roots). Super impressive performance for $120 each lol. Never skimp on tyres, brakes, suspension. There's old pics of my R31's crappy random brake pads bending in the caliper at Oran Park track day somewhere around here. Anyway, my 2 cents.
×
×
  • Create New...