Jump to content
SAU Community

Consult Problems

Crans

By Crans,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
Posted

I got my self a consult cable last week and can't seam to get it to work.

I was using it on a USB -> Serial converter and have since tried it from a com port on my desktop.

There seams to be no communication back from the ECU. I have used a serial communication program and tried sending the hex string 0xFF 0xFF 0xEF(or was it 0xFE) and i don't recieve a responce.

Any ideas on why its not working?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176779-consult-problems/
Share on other sites
NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
Posted

your ecu should support consult (89/9-90/12)

check wiring from consult port to ecu is good

check you have power at consult port

you can use this pinout of consult port along with ecu pinout to check it

http://www.ecutalk.com/images/consult_car.jpg

you have stock ecu right?

Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The consult cable is getting power(LED lights up) its got a Nissan ECU in it no idea it its been modified(Altho it should still work if modified).

I may just try wiring it direectly into the ecu wiring.

I got the cable of Mearcat so im 100% sure the cable is fine

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
Posted

consult cable (ie consult interface, not the connector in car) doesnt need check - its only used for manual diagnostic features (ie shorting it with ign to get MIL bulb flashing or something).

check wiring with a multimeter to check continuity (ie that its only a few ohms from ecu to consult port) to make sure wiring isnt cut or disconnected anywhere.

cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted

For what it's worth, I used to have connectivity issues between ECU->laptop due to the order things ran.

I had to start ECUTalk, connect consult cable, have ECUTalk search for COM connections - then it'd find it no problem. Damn, maybe it was the other way around. It has been too long.

Anyway dude, if you haven't already, it might be worth a shot to change when you're connecting the cable. Mine would still light up but never detect the ECU.

Mark

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
Posted

generally the only order thing should matter is if u have usb/serial it needs to be connected before some consult programs are opened so they can detect the port. ECUTalk doesnt detect ports anymore as some port detect will lock up certain pocket pc's - you just manually select the port u want to open.

TurboX Mentor

TurboX

Posted
Posted
the usb -> Serial converter isn't a problem as ive also tried using it with a desktop with onboard serial port

WRONG! A desktop is NOT a LAPTOP! :D (obviously!)

Laptop/Notebooks work in completely different ways in regards to software/electronics controlling Serial Ports etc generally!

Do NOT use the SER/USB converter if you want it to work.

If your laptop has no Serial port get an old one that does and try before blaming the Consult system.

Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
  • Author
Posted

SOrry i didnt make my self clear(Re reading it my self confused me)

I have a desktop computer that if being built as an in car computer.

It has on board com ports(Serial ports) I have tried the connector on the desktop with out using the usb to serial converter.

Im now using ecu talk and still no luck. gonna have to buy my self a multimeter to check everything

  • 2 months later...
ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

referning to this image http://www.ecutalk.com/images/consult_car.jpg

the consult port on our 2000 stagea looks very very similar .. but intead of the grouping of 4 pins on one side ( clock , ground . rx .tx etc ) the pins on teh stagea plug are a bit different.

can someone shed some light as to if my consult cable I used on my N14 pulsar can be modified to fit / interact with the stagea consult?

I think the cable I have is for ODB I .. does the stagea have ODB II?

oh and if anyone replies to this post can you PM me .. as I am fairly new on this forum and get a bit lost as to what threads I have replied to :P

many thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • soviet_merlin
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • soviet_merlin
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Can't see that being a thing.
×
×
  • Create New...