Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was under the impression that c34 stagea support consult like the R34 does. might not have the clock signal line?

do u mean the connector is different? or just the wiring in it? so long as it has wires in the positions for gnd/ign/rx/tx then it hopefully will work. doesnt matter if it has extra wires, some cars have some of the middle pins wired up.

if its different, take a photo or something of it? have u got service manual you can check or post relevant diagrams from?

well the TX RX etc cluster is not the same on the stagea .. has 3 connectors in there instead of the 4 that I was used to see. I dont have any info on the stagea really ! I could take a photo of the port but my digital camera is pretty damned average!

i was under the impression that c34 stagea support consult like the R34 does. might not have the clock signal line?

do u mean the connector is different? or just the wiring in it? so long as it has wires in the positions for gnd/ign/rx/tx then it hopefully will work. doesnt matter if it has extra wires, some cars have some of the middle pins wired up.

if its different, take a photo or something of it? have u got service manual you can check or post relevant diagrams from?

hmmmm .. yes the clock looks to be missing.. but how can I really tell with just a multimeter?

I guess with that in mind I could give it another go tonight.

well that seems right cause i said CLK doesnt have to be there. so 3 on left and 1 (or 2) on right = ok?

check and see if it is the CLK thats missing

no need to check with multimeter if youve got 20/20 vision and you did indeed see the CLK missing as per the image u posted before.

u could check that 12v and GND are correct if u want, but im sure nissan wouldnt make a mistake as simple as that in a mass produced car

thanks man you have really helped me out !

I dont have the car with me to check .. but from memory yeh it was that area that was causing me greif! there were also ( again from memory ) one or 2 pins that were not listed in that diagram

I will give it another shot tonight and see whats going on.

no need to check with multimeter if youve got 20/20 vision and you did indeed see the CLK missing as per the image u posted before.

u could check that 12v and GND are correct if u want, but im sure nissan wouldnt make a mistake as simple as that in a mass produced car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
    • Can't see that being a thing.
×
×
  • Create New...