Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

i changed my brakes pads (front and rears) to bendix ultimates less than a week ago and had all my discs machined. Now they are sqealing badly every time i brake. Is this just the pads wearing in, or is something not right?

Thanks

Anton

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

No its right. Thats what they do. Mine squeal as well, mainly under light braking, but you've got to expect it with ultimates. Ultimates don't need bedding in, they come pre-bedded.

You can put brake goo on the back of the pads and shims to stop it from chattering on the piston, but I tried this and I lost a lot of brake pedal feel, the pedal went squishy/soft. Me not like, so I removed it.

If its squealing between the pad and the disc, there is a pressure pack stuff you can spray on the disc. You can pick it up from a repco store or something of the like.

If your like me, just put up with it. At least when it squeals it reminds you that you've got good pads. Don't worry about it when people look at you because of your brakes.

cheers Keymaker, ye i guess ill just have to put up with it. ill go to autobarn or repco and see what theyve got. the mechanic had another look at it and said its all fine but if i cant tolerate it, contact bendix and let them hear it and theyll supply new pads. anyone gone down this route and had success with new ones?

Thats a lil concerning....i never associated squeaky brakes as being a good thing....not questioning you, but can anyone else who runs Ultimates confirm this is the case and in general if squeaky brakes are ok.

Mine puts out two types of squealing. One is the high pitch squeal, the other is the really loud screech. It doesn't happen all the time. For most of the time they put out the high pitch squeal which is pretty bearable.

Sometimes they don't make a noise at all. It's much of a muchness really. If it starts to screech really loud, I'll drag that sound out as long as possible, it's funny to see the expressions on peoples faces :(

i've got bendix ultimates on the fronts, and shes been squealing under light braking load even with the old pads.

the discs are fine, so i've learnt to put up with it.

the first month or 2 was intense squealing, but over time it does it less.

hope that helps :(

Doesnt matter what pads u run they should never squeal or or screech.

I suggest taking out the pads and cleaning out the calipers, making sure the pads are wearing even (uneven means a stuck or faulty caliper piston) then scuff the pads a little (with some sand paper)

reinstall them with shims, and copper grease and then bed them in as per all pads need to be done.

Do this and u will never have noisy brakes.

thanks for the help fellas. Hopefully, Dave as you say, it will reduce in time

alot of this going around at the moment. alot of people have had these in before without squealing. I have heard a rumour that there is a bad batch of pads causing this. could be just a rumour or there could be some truth to it. probably best to try contacting bendix about it and mention that this is occurring on alot of cars at the moment.

No its right. Thats what they do. Mine squeal as well, mainly under light braking, but you've got to expect it with ultimates. Ultimates don't need bedding in, they come pre-bedded.

You can put brake goo on the back of the pads and shims to stop it from chattering on the piston, but I tried this and I lost a lot of brake pedal feel, the pedal went squishy/soft. Me not like, so I removed it.

If its squealing between the pad and the disc, there is a pressure pack stuff you can spray on the disc. You can pick it up from a repco store or something of the like.

If your like me, just put up with it. At least when it squeals it reminds you that you've got good pads. Don't worry about it when people look at you because of your brakes.

Thats really strange. I've tried with and without antisqueel shims, with pbr goo and without. All combinations.

Absolutely no difference to pedal feel but a massive improvement in squeel; especially with light braking.

I found with the Ultimates if I gave it a hard run through the hills the pads would squeel a tad just before I came to a stop then with softer driving it would slowly go away.

Back to the pedal going soft/squishy. Thats definitely not right; I really think you must of had another issue going on there that was rectified when you pulled the pads out.

My pedal is solid and easy to lock the wheels; never does it require lots of pedal travel to lock the tyres.

I've only ran 1 set of Ultimates.

Never again; too much brake dust thats also a pain in the arse to remove; short pad life; rip the crap out of the rotors and squeel on light braking after a hard run (even though it was greatly reduced with shims and goo).

I'm currently running Ferodo's. Excellent pad, do dust up a tad but it washes off easily with a spray of the hose. :D

Next set of street pads i'm going to try is Lucus/TRW. Apparently pretty damn good pads that can take a little track work also.

there are also the wear indicators .. sometimes when mechanics put the pads on they wont bother to put these in properly and will cause them to vibrate and make a squealing noise.. sorry for the bad description i dont know too much about brakes.

Ultimates don't need bedding in, they come pre-bedded.

I really REALLY wish people would stop posting bullshit on here as "fact".

I suggest you all read this article:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

& consider very closely this statement:

"Simply stated, bed-in is the process of depositing an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. That's it. End of discussion........."

So with that in mind can you please explain how ANY pad can come "Pre-bedded"??????

Thats really strange. I've tried with and without antisqueel shims, with pbr goo and without. All combinations.

Absolutely no difference to pedal feel but a massive improvement in squeel; especially with light braking.

Back to the pedal going soft/squishy. Thats definitely not right; I really think you must of had another issue going on there that was rectified when you pulled the pads out.

My pedal is solid and easy to lock the wheels; never does it require lots of pedal travel to lock the tyres.

Prior to fitting my pads I spoke to a mech and he said to use silastic/silicon for the anti squeal goo because that's all that stuff is.

When I did fit my pads I applied the silicon. A seal in the master cylinder died as I fitted the pads due to pushing the fluid back up the lines and through the cylinder. Now that made the pedal really squishy to the point it would just hit the floor.

After I got the seals replaced the and had the master cylinder reconditioned the pedal was still really squishy, so I took the pads back out and took all the silicon off the back of the pads and shims etc and it was instantly better pedal feel. Maybe I over applied the silicon, but I didn't think so, it was just a smear.

I really REALLY wish people would stop posting bullshit on here as "fact".

I suggest you all read this article:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

& consider very closely this statement:

"Simply stated, bed-in is the process of depositing an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. That's it. End of discussion........."

So with that in mind can you please explain how ANY pad can come "Pre-bedded"??????

OK I admit I shouldn't of used the word Pre-Bedded as that changes the meaning of everything.

I should of said Pre-Conditioned.

This is straight from the Bendix Horses mouth.

Ultimate pads are recommended for fitment to front and rear, to maintain balanced driving for sports, performance and prestige vehicles. There is a reference to suit most high performance European, Japanese and Australian cars and they are pre-conditioned during manufacture so there is no bedding-in required.

http://www.bendix.com.au/UltimateFeaturesBenefits.aspx

Unless bendix is lying to us.....

Cheers ;)

Edited by KeyMaker

I had my 34's front discs machined and Bendix Ultimates put on about 3 weeks ago. Mine are also squealing. I took it back to the mechanic who fitted them and they machined the "glaze" off the pads, but 2 days later, they were squealing again. The mechanic suggested that i do hard braking to try to wear them in better, however it's not like i can in peak hour traffic every day. And not to mention the amount of brake dust coming off them is terrible!

I'll be changing the pads to a different (more expensive) brand when my next service is due. I really can't stand the squealing.

I've been recommended EBC or Endless to try...

I had my 34's front discs machined and Bendix Ultimates put on about 3 weeks ago. Mine are also squealing. I took it back to the mechanic who fitted them and they machined the "glaze" off the pads, but 2 days later, they were squealing again. The mechanic suggested that i do hard braking to try to wear them in better, however it's not like i can in peak hour traffic every day. And not to mention the amount of brake dust coming off them is terrible!

I'll be changing the pads to a different (more expensive) brand when my next service is due. I really can't stand the squealing.

I've been recommended EBC or Endless to try...

But bendix is sooo cheap! hahaha I'm a budget person. I don't find dust much of a problem. I mean by the time the mags are so dusty, the whole car usually needs a wash anyway. Just wash them when you was the car. But then again, my mags are black. And squealing, who cares...? just turn the stereo up so you can't hear it ;)

Prior to fitting my pads I spoke to a mech and he said to use silastic/silicon for the anti squeal goo because that's all that stuff is.

When I did fit my pads I applied the silicon. A seal in the master cylinder died as I fitted the pads due to pushing the fluid back up the lines and through the cylinder. Now that made the pedal really squishy to the point it would just hit the floor.

I'd say the silicon was part of the problem. Pbr glue I use resembled grease.

Don't use silicon, what a mess it would make.

I'd say the silicon was part of the problem. Pbr glue I use resembled grease.

Don't use silicon, what a mess it would make.

Funny that. I asked the mech about some copper grease or something and said noooo don't use any sort of grease stuff. He was saying that the silicon would match the shape of the piston once it pushes onto it and stop it from vibrating. I used gasket silicon so it was pretty easy to remove. He also reckons that the red or orange brake goo is just coloured silicon too......? hmmmm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
×
×
  • Create New...