Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Ive been suffering from a LOUD screeching squeal on occasion with light braking, sometimes even heavy.

I run standard rotors and Formula Ferodo pads (TS2000). It only really started when I put these pads in and guys at Midas couldnt figure out what it was. I left them as it is because my poor pedal feel was more of an issue that the squeal.

However after a track day, and trust me I didnt push that hard on the track, the screech was just as loud, but this time, almost every brake application caused it. This became very frustrating.

After researching for a while this is the process I came up with the fix the problem. Had some spare time so my mate helped me do it.

Basically:

1) removed the pads and shims

2) cleaned shims, back of pads and rotors with a spray on brake cleaner

3) cleaned the slit in the middle of the pads (they had massive dust build up in there)

4) sanded the pads down a little to remove any glazing (couldnt tell if there was any, not sure what it looks like haha)

5) chamfered pads with a file (ie. filed down the leading and trailing edge of the pad so its angled)

6) put some CRC brake squeal quite red goo in between the the shim stack and the back of pad

So its shim stack --> GOO --> back of pad, i didnt end up putting the goo in between the 2 or 3 piece shims

Straight away no sound, 2 weeks later, no sound!

Hope this helps.

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi all

Ive been suffering from a LOUD screeching squeal on occasion with light braking, sometimes even heavy.

I run standard rotors and Formula Ferodo pads (TS2000). It only really started when I put these pads in and guys at Midas couldnt figure out what it was. I left them as it is because my poor pedal feel was more of an issue that the squeal.

However after a track day, and trust me I didnt push that hard on the track, the screech was just as loud, but this time, almost every brake application caused it. This became very frustrating.

After researching for a while this is the process I came up with the fix the problem. Had some spare time so my mate helped me do it.

Basically:

1) removed the pads and shims

2) cleaned shims, back of pads and rotors with a spray on brake cleaner

3) cleaned the slit in the middle of the pads (they had massive dust build up in there)

4) sanded the pads down a little to remove any glazing (couldnt tell if there was any, not sure what it looks like haha)

5) chamfered pads with a file (ie. filed down the leading and trailing edge of the pad so its angled)

6) put some CRC brake squeal quite red goo in between the the shim stack and the back of pad

So its shim stack --> GOO --> back of pad, i didnt end up putting the goo in between the 2 or 3 piece shims

Straight away no sound, 2 weeks later, no sound!

Hope this helps.

Interestingly enough, i have the same pads, and i did EXACTLY as you did! Even filed the edges, used the same CRC goo, and the sound didnt stop :w00t:

Im taking the pads back and getting a replacement. Might buy a new shim kit as looking at the image on the previous page i am missing one of them. *sigh*

So ill start fresh, fresh pads, fresh shims, fresh skimmed rotors, and fresh goo.. will update when i have done it. As it driving me CRAZY!

Edited by gotRICE?
That shim kit is identical to what mine uses.

You need to goo. Use it. If your mechanic won't find another.

Fair enough... but he's never steered me wrong before, and you should HEAR what he says about mechanics that smear brake goo on the back of pads! =-o (my word!)

I might persist with it a bit longer and look into those shims. I know I have the four little corner ones, and the solid faced bits... but I don't recall seeing the vented ones. =-/

I'd just thought id share my experience now

Seeing as i had a set of Ferodo Formula TS2000's that squealed like a 12 year old getting ***** up the ass by a cat on a chalkboard, i tried re skimming the disc's, brake goo from Nam still to no avail.

So, i returned my pads to Repco (handy having a mate there) to swap for another set the same.

Just out of curiosity we checked the pads, the old squeaky ones next to the new ones, apparently the same.

The old ones were a bare pad, in green

The new ones were a black pad, with a green rubber piece over the back, where the squeak shimms would go! Interesting!

So, getting home, installing the new pads, and just re-using the squeak shields covered in CRC Squeak stop (NB i did NOT apply any more, as there was still a sufficient coating, and did NOT apply any to the pad surface itself)

Cleaned everything again with brake cleaner, re-installed everything, bed them is as per instruictuons. Let them cool off completely, and i have just been for a 5-10min drive around the city, up hills, down hills etc with variable brake force, and im happy to report that the brakes havnt uttered a peep :cool:

Hope it stays this way!

GL for everyone else. As it seems, there is no guaranteed cure. Its just trial and error, and i have found my correct method :wub::(:) All smiles here!

Just thought id add that after a few hours of driving around town, the squeak came back :) but it is intermittent (spelling?) and is nowhere near as loud as it was, so its bearable.

Hoping it might go away with age and wear.

I was about to suggest that the noise would come back. It did after I got my car back... a few days and the rears started... then a few weeks and the fronts are going mental!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...