Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is by FAR the best tuning tool I have encountered to date especially @ $1100, after starting out with snap on chassis ears years ago for all my V8 carb jobiies.

I have been searching for the ultimate KNOCK detection device for years and a decent detector can sometimes mean the differrence between life and death of an engine especially if a 1/3rd party fault occurs during a tuning or power run. The only other knock monitors worth a pinch of salt is the HKS one but it requires extensive modding to be truly effective and useful and the knock-box but quite simply i have never really liked using it and the K-mon seems to be far more easy to use and better at detecting knock.

http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Kmon.htm

post-34927-1184654141_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  paulr33 said:
yeah curious how much

the hks knock amp costs a bomb

i will post up pricing 2moro.. i cant remmeber :D i got this one on loan till the next batch is released. Im sure it was only 1100 or round abouts... half what everything else is.

  180bfj20det said:
Sounds interesting. How much does it cost and how does it compare to the link knockblock?

better for sure. It is by far the best thing for knock detection i have come accross.

Cant seem to to download instruction booklet etc.

Do you have an instruction booklet handy?

How easy is it to use?

What settings do you use on your engine and if you want to change to say a big block chev, could you use your instruction manual or is this trhough experience only?

This subject is of huge interest to me as I tune my own cars, but admit Im weak in detecting knock. Be nice to have a gizmo like this, but im sure there must be rule of thumbs that exist when coming to using these detectors, as youre knock and final tune is only as good as the setup (ie sensitivity, placement of sensor and the like).

Care to elaborate/educate us a bit more on them? I keen to learn.

PS i have tried using microphone on blocks etc....useless method (for me anyway).

Seb

  URAS said:
better for sure. It is by far the best thing for knock detection i have come accross.

I would imagine the frequncy of knock is totally different and with the bandpass frequncy definability of this product means that it could differentiate. But surely theres a limit, how do they tune dragsters?

Watching thread.

  unique1 said:
How much power are knock detection devices like this good for? ive been told with forged bottom end, big cams and solid valvetrain and 700hp+ (at wheels) that its very very hard to hear knock at all over the other engine noises, is this true?
  URAS said:
This is by FAR the best tuning tool I have encountered to date especially @ $1100, after starting out with snap on chassis ears years ago for all my V8 carb jobiies.

I have been searching for the ultimate KNOCK detection device for years and a decent detector can sometimes mean the differrence between life and death of an engine especially if a 1/3rd party fault occurs during a tuning or power run. The only other knock monitors worth a pinch of salt is the HKS one but it requires extensive modding to be truly effective and useful and the knock-box but quite simply i have never really liked using it and the K-mon seems to be far more easy to use and better at detecting knock.

http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Kmon.htm

Havn't used a snap on chassis ear but the steelman chassis ear works very well if you know what your listening for. I would be very dubious to use something that is not a direct amplifier of actual enigne noise - as in I prefer no damping of any type.

  • 1 month later...
  rob82 said:
Havn't used a snap on chassis ear but the steelman chassis ear works very well if you know what your listening for. I would be very dubious to use something that is not a direct amplifier of actual enigne noise - as in I prefer no damping of any type.

1000% better than steelman chassis ears.... steelman and snap on are made by the same manufacturer are are crude and dont pick up half the knock compared to the K-mon... chassis ears are pretty back yard honestley thats why i upgraded. Best thing is the datalog software is handy and very good as a visual aid also.

Good enough for apexi to use it as their official tuning partner!!

http://www.apexi-usa.com/news_special.asp?id=12

post-34927-1189139315_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1189139324_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  Guilt-Toy said:
i invested in one of these, thanks for getting it to me sooo quickly Trent!! looks good ;)

nice work let us know how u get on i still havent got my head around setting it up, i dont know how to adjust the settings to detect knock but not detect other random noise like it seems to be doing, ive had it for over a year and never used it due to this, i got a big tune on monday and would like to set it up to make life easier when the tuner is tuning it. Ill go for a run tommorow and see what readings i get on current tune (560hp at wheels).

Edited by unique1

okay.. had to make some adaptors for the knock sensors as they are not a direct fit to the stock RB knock sensor position.

Made up 2 x brass plugs with the same thread as the stock knock sensors and then drilled them and tapped them then screwed them to the block and then screwed new knock sensors to them.

Had to take the starter motor off to get to the rear knock sensor. bit of a pain but what the heck.

On the dyno, i just dropped the screamer back on, got rid of the cat (for hill climb) first run on 20psi, 480rwhp on 20 PSI!!! i was listening to the run and not a sign of detonation, the knock sensors on the Gizzmo software did not read anymore then 40....

Impressed, the AFR was 13.3 on full boost! 12deg timing as well with 20psi - most power it ever made on 20psi.

So my whole excersize for the day was to get the least power i could for the hill climb, richened it up to 11.5's afr and took 1deg of timing out, did not want to heat the engine as 11 is pretty retarded.

Here is a screen shot from one of my runs, URAS is this okay ?? thats the typical run from my engine on 20psi with 450hp at rear wheels.

post-1240-1223519195_thumb.jpg

and for Unique1, here is a screenshot of my settings that i promised you! (i got 2 knock sensors, they come with one knock sensor standard)

post-1240-1223519261_thumb.jpg

This Gizzmo kmon ROCKS. my power fc knock sensors were reading spikes to 80 90 on full load, for NO reason, no mattter how much timing i would take out it was not changing, so i had to invest in one of these babys.

Retail price is around $1200.. if you see Trent he can do you one at a better price if you ask in a nice manner :banana:

I know its a big cost to outlay, but i am going to continue tuning my own car even though its got over 500hp now and i dont feel like building another engine.

Definatly worth the money!!!

Thanks again Trent! i got the item the next day after ordering, which is weird whenever i want something soo bad so quickly it normaly takes ages but this little baby came straight away!

Yeah i give this product a 9 out of 10, the only reason why it dont get 10 is cos you need to power it with USB only, and the price is pretty high (im a tight arse)

ohhh another thing that i did not like about the unit is that when you have your laptop plugged in and charging with a 12v to 240v inverter the unit gets lots of feedback and shows 20 - 30 knock at all times...

is there anyway around this ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...