Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plazmaman plenum the go for sure, they have had nothing but good news about them to date.

They have also been known to have the turbo spooling 400rpm quicker then a greddy. As tested on the gt35r turbo.

Also have the advantage of being a straight drop on the standard runners, and has the outlet for the iac.

Although they cost 1200 bucks, but all ya have to worry about is just amending ya intercooler pipes, and possibly throttle body selection.

The setup i am going for is similar style as the extreme exhaust manifold ( with a 45mm pro-gate turbosmart external wastegate) and a similiar style plenum to the plazmaman. The guy that is doing the work on my car for me, has currently worked on a 1000hp skyline, and is enough proof to me that his shit actually works.

But yeah extreme manifolds look awesome and i reckon plazmaman for the plenum. Would be awesome combination.

budget isnt an issue, so i was thinking of doing both manifolds at once.

does everyone agree the greddy is the best inlet plenum for the r33 gtst?

pics of my current setup..

you could cut a bit of piping out of the current if you wanted.

Just by looping much earlier and coming over the rockers by getting rid of the factory cross over.

There are a few cars on here with that setup and it doesnt affect the bonnet closing which is the main factor.

I just cant think of which cars at present :D

Go with whatever suits really.

If you've got cash to tidy it up, might aswell.

you could cut a bit of piping out of the current if you wanted.

Just by looping much earlier and coming over the rockers by getting rid of the factory cross over.

There are a few cars on here with that setup and it doesnt affect the bonnet closing which is the main factor.

I just cant think of which cars at present :D

Go with whatever suits really.

If you've got cash to tidy it up, might aswell.

something like this i believe.

post-5777-1184879976_thumb.jpg

Umm... its actually the opposite mate.

A low mount is better for under bonnet temps than a high mount.

Thats fair enough then, i was just going by, what kyle had said, and looked obvious to me.

But if stats are looking the other way then good stuff.

Has there been stats as oppose to low mount and high mount with turbo bag or heatshield??

Also engine temps as oppose to engine bay??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...