Show Me Your Racing Machines

[swanny180]

Looks awesome tacker, well done

Look forward to seeing more pics of her!!

[giant]

Well should be out at QR tomorrw for testing session, testing new ohlins suspension & sidepipe and wheel alignment, new injectors and sunoco fuel.

engine will then come out tomorrow night and build new engine on weekend and fit, ready for dyno test early next week and test session with new engine

next friday at QR again at paul ruzic track day. (fell tired even thinking about it !!) one or two test after that & then in the container.

new web address for updates too! @ http://www.timeattackgtr.com

cheers russ

Edited September 27, 2007 by giant

[Beer Baron]

oooh, I'm excited russ. feel my nipples.

care to share what kind of alignment settings you are going to try. I'll give you mine for free because I know no-one will want to copy me!

Front:

1.6mm toe out each side (actually may be 1.8mm I forget, but I need it to make the thing turn in nicely)

castor currently about 9 degrees but thinking about winding it back to 6 or so as it's a bit nervous in long fast corners

camber 3.5neg (the most I can get with the current arms and all that castor. I think once I wind off a bit of caster I may be able to get more neg camber)

whiteline swaybar set on full soft

Rear:

0.00 toe (going to try a touch toe in for a little more stability under brakes, getting tired of backing it into corners as the car tries to kill me! lol)

1.5 degrees neg camber (fairly happy with that, may try a touch more

whiteline swaybar now set on medium (was on full soft but again, car was a little too tailly and I find on medium there is not much trade off understeer wise)

traction rod set (can't really measure this, but i've had it set now to make the rear upright more upright. gives much better traction out of corners now)

hicas locked too of course

so what do you reckon am I on the right track here?

[Roy]

LOL...thats the easy bit...tell us how you set up those shocks of yours

[nedi]

my race machine, this was taken a few months before i banged it into that wall just behind it there in the picture.

r32 gtr on the way.

Edited September 27, 2007 by nedi

[Kaido_RR]

my race machine, this was taken a few months before i banged it into that wall just behind it there in the picture.

r32 gtr on the way.

abit of a downgrade going to a gtr?

[giant]

abit of a downgrade going to a gtr?

downgrade to a gtr!! i dont think so!

lovely looking GT3 BTW!

Edited September 27, 2007 by giant

[giant]

oooh, I'm excited russ. feel my nipples.

care to share what kind of alignment settings you are going to try. I'll give you mine for free because I know no-one will want to copy me!

Front:

1.6mm toe out each side (actually may be 1.8mm I forget, but I need it to make the thing turn in nicely)

castor currently about 9 degrees but thinking about winding it back to 6 or so as it's a bit nervous in long fast corners

camber 3.5neg (the most I can get with the current arms and all that castor. I think once I wind off a bit of caster I may be able to get more neg camber)

whiteline swaybar set on full soft

Rear:

0.00 toe (going to try a touch toe in for a little more stability under brakes, getting tired of backing it into corners as the car tries to kill me! lol)

1.5 degrees neg camber (fairly happy with that, may try a touch more

whiteline swaybar now set on medium (was on full soft but again, car was a little too tailly and I find on medium there is not much trade off understeer wise)

traction rod set (can't really measure this, but i've had it set now to make the rear upright more upright. gives much better traction out of corners now)

hicas locked too of course

so what do you reckon am I on the right track here?

yeah mate very close to our setup!

do you do it yourself?? we do ours with a string line and bubble gauge ( and always drives better than when we get it lasered)

front 1mm toe out

caster 6 degrees

camber 4 1/4

rear 1.5 mm toe in

camber 2 1/4

car is about 20mm below standard height.

using custom whiteline bars can't remember the setting ( i think its hard at the front & medium on the rear)

our traction rods are standard and need to be changed.

cheers russ

p.s will let you know how tomorrow goes (sounds bloody loud with 4 inch side pipe) hope to get some video too

(why am i up! 6.15am start in a couple of hours)

Edited September 27, 2007 by giant

[swanny180]

Oh please please PLEASE get some videos!!

[tacker]

give it some russ

[Beer Baron]

yeah mate very close to our setup!

do you do it yourself?? we do ours with a string line and bubble gauge ( and always drives better than when we get it lasered)

front 1mm toe out

caster 6 degrees

camber 4 1/4

rear 1.5 mm toe in

camber 2 1/4

car is about 20mm below standard height.

using custom whiteline bars can't remember the setting ( i think its hard at the front & medium on the rear)

our traction rods are standard and need to be changed.

cheers russ

p.s will let you know how tomorrow goes (sounds bloody loud with 4 inch side pipe) hope to get some video too

(why am i up! 6.15am start in a couple of hours)

sounds good. I will try some rear toe in, and some less caster. I get doug heasman to do it for me. he uses old school equipment. I too had massive problems with laser equipment not being even close to accurate. you put it on the machine 3 times and you get 3 different figures. I mean, they had a workshop fan and when it was on the force of that air onto the car made the alignment readings jump around. after I saw that I gave up on the laser machines and now only get doug to do it with his setsquares and dials.

[evil_weevil]

Richard,

How long do you leave your car at Heasmans for?

And cost wise? (pm if you like)

I need my car set up properly and am thinking of leaving it heasmans

Cheers!

[Beer Baron]

well i usually do it with doug over a couple of hours.but I've been going there for years so doug tolerates my interference! but I would say just book it in, drop it off in the morning then you should be able to pick it up in the evening same day. a good full on alignment takes a few hours, no idea what it costs though. probably $200 or so.

oh, and heasmans is definately the place to go if you want your car set-up nicely. I would probably get 4 or 5 wheel alingments a year and none of them are wasted money. got to keep trying set-ups till you find the killer one for you and your car and a particular track.

[giant]

well i usually do it with doug over a couple of hours.but I've been going there for years so doug tolerates my interference! but I would say just book it in, drop it off in the morning then you should be able to pick it up in the evening same day. a good full on alignment takes a few hours, no idea what it costs though. probably $200 or so.

oh, and heasmans is definately the place to go if you want your car set-up nicely. I would probably get 4 or 5 wheel alingments a year and none of them are wasted money. got to keep trying set-ups till you find the killer one for you and your car and a particular track.

Absolutely spot on!! wheel alignment can never be understated.

i went to wakefield one weekend after getting a wheel alignment from a "race expert shop ". we struggled with the car all weekend , most of the time thinking our 4wd was playing up. when we got home and checked wheel alignment the car had 6mm of rear toe out. ( i spun a few times that week end) !

[giant]

well mark drove the car this morning!

the new ohlins shocks were absolutely fantastic and miles ahead of what we are used to !! the intial settings are pretty good and were great at a rough track like QR.

sidepipe sounds awsome and helped with response and overall power, not to mention weight reduction by about 10 kg, big flames too!!

wheel alignment seems spot on for tight stuff and should be great for Tsukuba. 03G dulop mediums were put on the car and had plenty of grip but will be going for softs for Japan.

overall wrapped with the new setup, only got to do about 8 laps and 6 of those were running in the new tyres and doing a temp/pressure check,

lap time was mid 1:17 sec's wish we are really happy with considering not pushing the car yet, will be fitting new engine this weekend.

new turbos, tomei forged crank, gt block, with current head setup, and turn up the volume a little bit with a 9000 rpm limit.

and trying to get some fast laps in next friday at QR.

if i have any good pics or vids , i will post them tonight.

cheers russ ( huge weeknd ahead)

[Beer Baron]

all sounds good mate. what turbo(s) are you running? and is the tomei engine 2.8 or 2.6?

[giant]

hi mate!

2.6 crank & 2860 turbo's.

Mark reckons the shocks are unbelievable! cant wait to drive it myself.

had a coolant leak so didnt do the laps we wanted to do, but not to worry the real test for speed comes with the new motor. ( i had to go to work anyway)

russ

[hrd-hr30]

haven't been in here in a while. quite a few pages to catch up on. Tacker's machine looks awesome! and good to see Giant's getting there despite the tight schedule. should be an absolute weapon in the new format - and it was impressive enough before!

oooh, I'm excited russ. feel my nipples.

care to share what kind of alignment settings you are going to try. I'll give you mine for free because I know no-one will want to copy me!

Front:

1.6mm toe out each side (actually may be 1.8mm I forget, but I need it to make the thing turn in nicely)

castor currently about 9 degrees but thinking about winding it back to 6 or so as it's a bit nervous in long fast corners

camber 3.5neg (the most I can get with the current arms and all that castor. I think once I wind off a bit of caster I may be able to get more neg camber)

whiteline swaybar set on full soft

Rear:

0.00 toe (going to try a touch toe in for a little more stability under brakes, getting tired of backing it into corners as the car tries to kill me! lol)

1.5 degrees neg camber (fairly happy with that, may try a touch more

whiteline swaybar now set on medium (was on full soft but again, car was a little too tailly and I find on medium there is not much trade off understeer wise)

traction rod set (can't really measure this, but i've had it set now to make the rear upright more upright. gives much better traction out of corners now)

hicas locked too of course

so what do you reckon am I on the right track here?

couple of things - stiffening the rear bar should make the car more tailly??? traction rods should be set on an aligner (or with the goog old string-line) with the spring/shock out of the car and the length set to minimise bump steer through suspension travel, particularly around the working range of motion a couple of inches either side of static ride height. But really, that would be putting the upright back towards vertical anyway. I found this out the hard way by trying to scrimp on the rear camber correction and just doing the main arm. SK pointed me in the right direction when I had terrible oversteer as a result.

[Beer Baron]

haven't been in here in a while. quite a few pages to catch up on. Tacker's machine looks awesome! and good to see Giant's getting there despite the tight schedule. should be an absolute weapon in the new format - and it was impressive enough before!

couple of things - stiffening the rear bar should make the car more tailly??? traction rods should be set on an aligner (or with the goog old string-line) with the spring/shock out of the car and the length set to minimise bump steer through suspension travel, particularly around the working range of motion a couple of inches either side of static ride height. But really, that would be putting the upright back towards vertical anyway. I found this out the hard way by trying to scrimp on the rear camber correction and just doing the main arm. SK pointed me in the right direction when I had terrible oversteer as a result.

yeah, typo. meant to say rear bar was on full hard before, now on medium. I actually liked the feel on full hard when I was running bilsteins with eibach springs but now that I'm on the ohlins with much heavier springs I dont need as much bar and actually I like it with more spring/less bar. I'm actually going to have a go with stock bars front and rear now and see what it's like. with the cage, and the better dampers and heavier springs I'm not convinced that much bar is a good thing. for street it's great, but on the track I'm starting to see the merits of big spring, smaller bar.

and yes, the traction rod is set to minimise toe change under bump and you are right this does put the upright more upright. I haven't tried it without the traction rod (when I put in my UCA, I did the traction rod too), but doug has told me that for drifters some like the traction rod set to bring the upright forward (effectively caster for the rear end) which does make the car much more taily.

[giant]

hey guys

well nearly all the photos i took today look like crap, as i really should learn how to use the camera!! forgot to change the setting and nearly all photos are white and washed out!! oops.

but here a three okay ones, loved the porsche lemans car !! awsome

cheers russ

will have a look at the video i took. only out of car.