Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

noddy you ar hardly alone on that, bonnet pins left out has been *the* most common reason for a car being damaged that I've seen over the years. often costs a windscreen if its a steel bonnet too.

its funny we put pins in for safety but its sooooo easy to forget

plenum looks hot Dane :D

it will be cool to see your car back out there...

so, now that you have the seam work, sell me your tomei tri point brace, it won't fit over your plenum... there's no point even checking, safer to just send it my way :unsure:

Yeah, it came out well, and judging by Ariel's other work it should do the job!

Haha that brace is mine man, you'll have to kill me for it. Wait, wait, maybe just take me out to dinner, wine me, dine me, and get me drunk enough to put you at the front of the line for it if it doesn't clear my plenum :D

It's really cheap when compared to building a car for track work. The biggest money saving factor is that hp doesn't always help you go faster on the loose stuff.

My car is just a stock engined GTS. Currently building a new motor but.

I stripped the car myself, got all the panel work fixed (the car was pretty rough) put in a cage, race seats, harnesses, removed the HICAS etc and was on the startline of my first event for $4,500NZ including buying the car for $1,000.

Ongoing costs are not bad, as long as you don't keep crashing! I've been rallying the car for 12 months and now I'm starting on some development work with suspension, engine etc, so I'll be spending some coin now.

At Clubsport level you don't need the best of everything, I run against some pretty trick Escorts and one big $$$ R30 - was only 0.5 seconds of him the other weekend!

If you want to see the build and more rally pics go here: (that's if the website server doesn't crash!)

screamin' rally

Thanks for the info mate, as well as the link. It's something I'd love to do, and it'd be the perfect reason to get myself a nice 205 GTi :D

Noddy: Don't feel like you're alone mate, happens to the best of us! :D

Here's my bonnet after being repaired from doing exactly the same thing... whoooooooooooooops

I thought this sticker was a good reminder, might do it myself :unsure:

post-8405-1206666467_thumb.jpg

post-8405-1206666853_thumb.jpg

Hey Ant, thanks mate :D

Just getting some stuff sorted for the new STACK dash over the weekend, so it's all coming together. I just need my mechanic to free up some time so we can piece it back together.

I'm getting antsy!

Are you doing PI this weekend?

Well its not the most embarassing thing to do, have an off, at least you were having a red hot go. Not putting the bonnet pins in...... theres a story.

IMG_5894.jpg

I lost some of it along the way and need to have it in better shape for Gatton this weekend, So it is dodge it up time in the shed.

Picture010.jpg

I will have to get a new one soon. I promise.

Ouch!

Rat! :D:unsure:

If I don't make it down for a watch on Saturday, I might pop down on Sunday dependant on weather. You going down at all?

i'll be heading down saturday, for a couple of hours.

if you come down you should bring the brace for me :D

Finally got some photos of my car so i though i'd post them. Car will be used for track and possibly the odd tarmack rally (and maybe a little drift)

post-36469-1206672951_thumb.jpg

Air con core being removed

post-36469-1206672978_thumb.jpg

Dash removed

post-36469-1206672990_thumb.jpg

mmmmmm Dry Ice - the easy way to get rid of that pesky sound deadner. After removing all the s/d i weighed it. about 26kg :P

Some of us were at the Gatton street sprints on the weekend, and I think most ppl set new pb's. The record was definetly shaken by a few seconds, Awsome laps there Mark.....Russ had a good go too.

I was just looking for some photos today (I forgot to charge the camera) and found a vid that shows a few of the cars.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=q8rdGApUTMQ

26 on just the s/d ? i guess that wud b including the the dry ice?

u removed the aircon compressor as well yea, thing thats got the timing belt running over it = 8kgs

Yep 26kg of sound deadning nothing else dry ice was all gone by the time i weighed it.

The thread that Duncun put up is were i got the idea, basiclly put it on leave it for as long as possible (after about 10 mins you will hear it cracking) got the paint scraper and just slid it under it. Came off in nice big chunks. The peice in the spare tyer well came out in 3 bits. The only problem was i ran out (12kg of dry ice in total) and had to do the sides of the tunnel the old fashon way.

I will be weighing everything that i pull out and then do a final weight of the car (just for interest sake) as see how much weight i can loose. It might get to the point were ill replace all the wiring with teflon coated wiring for that little extra loss (helps when you have friends that get it free/cheap hehe)

Edited by rtk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
×
×
  • Create New...