Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh, it seems cams really wake up the SR20s

very timely question. I'm currently looking at cams for my SR20.

stock head, valves springs the whole lot.

running 555cc injectors, z32 maf, trust T518Z, uras mani, nice big exhaust, trust cooler, putting out 230rwkw at about 1.2bar. but should make more with some tuning.

I wanted a set of HKS SS cams, 264/264 with 10.5mm in lift and 10mm ex lift. (sadly these are now discontinued from HKS but second hand come up every now and then)

other option is tomei cams which are 256/256 duration with 11.5mm lift both in and ex. the lift on these ones worries me a bit with stock valvetrain.

the option I'm leaning towards is greddy easy cams which are 256in with 10.5mm lift and 264 ex with 10.5mm lift.

thoughts?

Dave, your set-up looks awesome, what cams and turbo etc are you running. did you spend any time dialling in the cams with adjustable gears? and if so, any gains from adjusting the cam timing?

ps, I want to run around 22psi out of the T518Z and want around 250-260rwkw, possibly even 270 or 280 on E85 (but will need bigger injectors for that).

considering this is a budget hack not too keen on doing anything to the head other than chucking in some cams. even probably buy a set of used ones that's how cheap this car is!

I just don't know which way to go? the mild duration but big 11.5mm lift of the tomei poncams (which they claim is fine with stock valve springs etc up to 7500)?

or go with a nice fat 264 duration but a more conservative 10.5mm lift.

would love some advice. :P

The following dyno is of a T518Z with 8cm ex housing and HKS step 1 256/264 staggered duration cam on a s14 motor running VCT. Sounds like this is what you are after.

PS I also have some JWT S3 cams for sale - brand new to suit VCT s14 and s15 motors. They are a 260 duration cam and do not need valve springs refer details here. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_...l.asp?PartID=13 I can source dynos of these cams in a 56trim 2871R on a Mustang dyno if you want (over 400rwhp) and car does 120mph trap speed over quarter.

T518Z.jpg

Edited by juggernaut1
The following dyno is of a T518Z with 8cm ex housing and HKS step 1 256/264 staggered duration cam on a s14 motor running VCT. Sounds like this is what you are after.

PS I also have some JWT S3 cams for sale - brand new to suit VCT s14 and s15 motors. They are a 260 duration cam and do not need valve springs refer details here. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_...l.asp?PartID=13 I can source dynos of these cams in a 56trim 2871R on a Mustang dyno if you want (over 400rwhp) and car does 120mph trap speed over quarter.

T518Z.jpg

what boost was this dyno run on?

that's a great figure for the 8 cm!

i can see that cams are important...

i'm jealous of all of these sr20det power readings, my setup is suffering a lack of power...

i'm half willing to put up with the power that i've got because i don't want to uncover a tired bottom end in diagnosis, but at the same time i think the setup i have should be making more hp than it is.

i'll try and get a my dyno sheet up, if i can find it... someone might have some insight for me.

ps: Baron, i've been using the tomei poncams in an s14a motor with standard valve train, for approx 8000 kms, mainly "hard" kms, i'm fairly sure my rev limiter has been lowered to around 7200, i'm not sure how much of a difference that would actually make to longevity... anyway, no problems yet "touch wood"

mind you, the power curve in my car feels quite flat, i'm not sure what the reason for it is yet, when i get the dyno print out up and perhaps someone here may have some input after i list the bit's and pieces...

ok,no time like the present... (just tell me if i'm hijacking the direction of this thread)...

bit's and pieces:

bosch 040

550cc inj

apexi pfc

avcr

z32 afm

hks 2540

arc intercooler

s14 na throttle body

tomei poncams and ras

tomei dump pipe

3 inch front pipe

3.5 inch metal cat

twin pipe fujitsubo cat back larger than 3.5 inch in total

the car is predominantly a road car, although that statement is becoming less and less true.

boost was set at 1.1 bar for the tune.

to be honest even though my setup would be considered mild compared to some i expected a little more hp, and the curve isn't all that smooth either,

it was a warm day back in nov 08, but both me and the tuner expected 20-35rwkw's more than what the sheet shows.

i'm not upset with the power, and to be honest i probably cannot use it all as yet (limited track experience) but it doesn't change the fact i thought there would be more.

any idea's on what is/might be missing?

post-9640-1252935412_thumb.jpg

post-9640-1252935623_thumb.jpg

very timely question. I'm currently looking at cams for my SR20.

stock head, valves springs the whole lot.

running 555cc injectors, z32 maf, trust T518Z, uras mani, nice big exhaust, trust cooler, putting out 230rwkw at about 1.2bar. but should make more with some tuning.

I wanted a set of HKS SS cams, 264/264 with 10.5mm in lift and 10mm ex lift. (sadly these are now discontinued from HKS but second hand come up every now and then)

other option is tomei cams which are 256/256 duration with 11.5mm lift both in and ex. the lift on these ones worries me a bit with stock valvetrain.

the option I'm leaning towards is greddy easy cams which are 256in with 10.5mm lift and 264 ex with 10.5mm lift.

thoughts?

Dave, your set-up looks awesome, what cams and turbo etc are you running. did you spend any time dialling in the cams with adjustable gears? and if so, any gains from adjusting the cam timing?

Turbo is a 3071 with the gt30 wheel, .63 housing on a JJR manifold thats been modded to run a 44mm tial.

I've got unigroup spec'd camtechs in mine which are 255 11.5 in and 260 12 ex with vct. The lobe centre on the exhaust is moved in relation to stock (i'd guess slightly retarded) but yavuz is keeping the details close to his chest. I have a gear on the exhaust but didn't play with it as spark was breaking down. I have trust valve springs though yavuz has run these cams with stock springs. Mine were $690 new.

Otherwise, the usual supporting mods.

The hks 264/264 cams give good results on small turbos with no vct though if you want a more informed opinion and don't mind a chat than i'd get in touch with unigroup about a set.

Obviously when you don't have vct your overlap is fixed so you need to decide if you want to compromise the top end or the bottom with your cam choice. I'd be thinking somewhere around the 260 11.5 in/ex would be a good compromise.

Is that busky's result you posted juggernaut? I thought he had a 10cm? It had (has?) surge issues as it ramps onto boost

Edited by badhairdave
ok,no time like the present... (just tell me if i'm hijacking the direction of this thread)...

bit's and pieces:

bosch 040

550cc inj

apexi pfc

avcr

z32 afm

hks 2540

arc intercooler

s14 na throttle body

tomei poncams and ras

tomei dump pipe

3 inch front pipe

3.5 inch metal cat

twin pipe fujitsubo cat back larger than 3.5 inch in total

the car is predominantly a road car, although that statement is becoming less and less true.

boost was set at 1.1 bar for the tune.

to be honest even though my setup would be considered mild compared to some i expected a little more hp, and the curve isn't all that smooth either,

it was a warm day back in nov 08, but both me and the tuner expected 20-35rwkw's more than what the sheet shows.

i'm not upset with the power, and to be honest i probably cannot use it all as yet (limited track experience) but it doesn't change the fact i thought there would be more.

any idea's on what is/might be missing?

I am most probably the least knowledgable with specs and setups but just my untrained eye thinks yes something is amiss with that setup and only 190rwkw.

As a comparison of a basic modded SR20 and power output i have as follows:

Walbro Pump

550cc inj

Step 1 HKS Cams

FMIC

Z32

T28BB

PFC

Profec B

3" Turbo back

and @ approx 12 psi pushes about 180rwkw then @ 15-16psi is pushes 210-215rwkw. All tuned by the magical wizard Yavuz @ Unigroup!

So maybe cams are the factor that is missing... dunno

ok,no time like the present... (just tell me if i'm hijacking the direction of this thread)...

bit's and pieces:

bosch 040

550cc inj

apexi pfc

avcr

z32 afm

hks 2540

arc intercooler

s14 na throttle body

tomei poncams and ras

tomei dump pipe

3 inch front pipe

3.5 inch metal cat

twin pipe fujitsubo cat back larger than 3.5 inch in total

the car is predominantly a road car, although that statement is becoming less and less true.

boost was set at 1.1 bar for the tune.

to be honest even though my setup would be considered mild compared to some i expected a little more hp, and the curve isn't all that smooth either,

it was a warm day back in nov 08, but both me and the tuner expected 20-35rwkw's more than what the sheet shows.

i'm not upset with the power, and to be honest i probably cannot use it all as yet (limited track experience) but it doesn't change the fact i thought there would be more.

any idea's on what is/might be missing?

Boost mostly.

It's pretty close to what a mate got with the same turbo a few years back on similar boost. I think you are about 10rwkw down on his result.

The 2540's aren't a great turbo but should still make 240ish when you start pushing. You're at the point where it should start making good gains as you add boost, but your injectors will be on the limit.

Is that busky's result you posted juggernaut? I thought he had a 10cm? It had (has?) surge issues as it ramps onto boost

Yes it is Busky's - I was under the impression it was an 8cm..... if it was 10cm then the mid range is even more impressive. We used to discuss our setups via pm's...however, he seems to have fallen off the planet over the last year or so so don't knwo where it is at now.

A pattern I'm seeing with yours and Buskys setups (even with completely different turbo setups)....use small duration intake (256) and longer ex duration to acheive full boost around 3600rpm and it seems you will nearly get 200rwks by 4000rpm resulting in a big fat powerband - bigger turbo of yours has more top end. Both these setups would have insane midrange with E85.

Edited by juggernaut1
Its a sa22 RX7....im looking at buying it aswell :P

That's very cool :P

Is it a PP? Looks fairly serious.

Greg: Low for a 2540 mate, as Dave mentioned above I'd be expecting closer to 240rwkw's with 1.4-1.5bar or so on board. Though I haven't seen a 2540 in a while so going by memory... why did you stop tuning it at that point? Didn't want t run any more boost?

looks like i'm on the right track with going 256 inlet and 264 exhaust with 10.5mm lift on both. should be a winner. I just reckon the tomei's with 256/256 and 11.5mm lift is just a tad too much lift on stock springs if you want to rev a bit (and I do, like 7500+).

the T518Z is a sweet little turbo. they make pretty decent power and give a good midrange too.

In the above set-up making 190kw at 1.1 bar the only thing I can think of is feed it more boost. or perhaps that particular dyno reads on the conservative side. that is easily eliminated by just going to a dyno day somewhere else and see if you get any 'magic' power. if you do then forget about it. if you don't get any gain on another dyno then perhaps it's turbo holding it back or maybe the tune?

I've been on that dyno in my old Golf, and the reading seemed about right (104fwkw's compared to a 128kw flywheel figure or thereabouts), unless it's changed since then.

Baron, the T518Z is probably my favourite of the bolt ons. They perform so well for what they are, and seem really reliable too. I have a real love for the Trust range of winders, old school yet perform better than they have any right to compared to their on paper specs. I had a hankering to whack a T67 on my car the other day :D

As for the cams, a mate of mine said he was experiencing bind with Jun 272's with 11.5mm lift and Jun valve springs (same as my setup), and had to change the springs to Tomei's so you may be onto something with the lift. He is a drifter though so sustained limiter bashing.

go the Truck turbos!... I mean Trust turbos! oops....................... nah they're awesome, coming from a modern ball bearing HKS turbs I thought I would eventually rip the Trust blowers out... but I have grown to love them so they're staying... for old tech turbos my dyno chart stands up pretty well compared to some brand new setups you see posted around here... but then again that might just be a little Racepace magic

oh it seems I have brought up RB26's... sorry didn't realise this thread was only for rotors and SR20s.......... just ignore me... lol :D

back on topic that RX7 is insane... soooo much car, such a tiny motor!... it would haul though, like a go kart for old blokes... love it

I am most probably the least knowledgable with specs and setups but just my untrained eye thinks yes something is amiss with that setup and only 190rwkw.

As a comparison of a basic modded SR20 and power output i have as follows:

Walbro Pump

550cc inj

Step 1 HKS Cams

FMIC

Z32

T28BB

PFC

Profec B

3" Turbo back

and @ approx 12 psi pushes about 180rwkw then @ 15-16psi is pushes 210-215rwkw. All tuned by the magical wizard Yavuz @ Unigroup!

So maybe cams are the factor that is missing... dunno

That's good power for a t28bb, nice and reliable power.

i was hoping/expecting roughly 220 on 1.1 bar, but fell 30kw short.

Boost mostly.

It's pretty close to what a mate got with the same turbo a few years back on similar boost. I think you are about 10rwkw down on his result.

The 2540's aren't a great turbo but should still make 240ish when you start pushing. You're at the point where it should start making good gains as you add boost, but your injectors will be on the limit.

i guess i should pony up and feed it more boost, perhaps the mixtures are a little stodgy also, when i was having it tuned i did ask for reliability over a big number.

Dane: yeah, mainly wanted to keep the boost at around that level, but the general consensus i'm getting in here is to wind it up...

i'm tempted to take it elsewhere for a run on another dyno, and perhaps get someone else's input on it, having said that once you have a bit of a relationship with a shop, and they know the car it feels strange going elsewhere.

especially with the rumour mill surrounding workshops in the local car scene...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...