Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a few years driving sprint cars and driving on the roads over here is a perfect combination.

nice looking car chris

20 yrs driving super sedans and now dirt circuit it cures ya fear of most things lol

FFS...get your car back on the road! :cool:

lol, fair call. soon my pretty. soon. you're welcome to come help. the more pissed people working on it at once the better I reckon. :down:

lol, fair call. soon my pretty. soon. you're welcome to come help. the more pissed people working on it at once the better I reckon. :(

I think you've just lost faith in the car Richard. That happens when your pride and joy has been off the road for too long. Someone needs to lend you the keys to a nicely balanced R32 and let you go for a strap so you can get some motivation going again.

Dont know about pissed people working on it though... Ive seen results from that end badly.

Dont know about pissed people working on it though... Ive seen results from that end badly.

yeah me too. that's how the car got into the garage in the first place!!! lol. me dissasembling it half pissed, then decided it needed a mega engine (instead of a $300 fix) and it just got out of control from there. the problem has been too many other good cars to drive in between. but now I've scaled back and it's time this 32 learnt to fly again. :mrt:

Big little engine project is very close to completion now. Had a high-octane sump extension welded onto a factory sump last week so ive installed that today and finished cleaning up and installing a little more plumbing. The timing belt issue has been a bit more of a challange that I had thought it would be. The first belt ive sourced is 1 tooth too long, so im having to order a belt from the UK that normally goes on a vahuxall astra to get the right tooth count.

GTRS's should arrive next week so when the belt arrives it will be ready to install. Cant wait!

cant wait to see thins finished man,

been thinking of this myself, rb28crank and deck spacer to get a good rod ratio.

please pm me if you are going to be producing these, would like to know more about costs and worrk :P

thanks

simon

cant wait to see thins finished man,

been thinking of this myself, rb28crank and deck spacer to get a good rod ratio.

please pm me if you are going to be producing these, would like to know more about costs and worrk :P

thanks

simon

That makes two of us Simon. Im having parts supply issues with sourcing a twin EGT sensor system that has to be fitted to the manifolds before they go onto the engine. Once the arrive the engine cain finally be finished and put in the car. Match ported the stock manifolds to the GTRS's and the head last weekend but the project is at a standstill for the moment.

If you have an RB28 crank, i'd be more inclined to keep the block a closed deck. The whole point of using an RB30 or RB28 crank is to make the stroker kit cheap. If HKS/Tomei kits were cheap everyone would have one. De-stroking the RB28 to a little under 81mm and using good quality (pauter, carillo) RB26 conrods, SR20DET GTIR bearings, and a set of custom 26.5mm height pistons can get you around 2.9lt. Depending on the gudgen pin height you may end up with a positive deck, which running a 1.7-2mm gasket will solve. This combination with some HKS2530's or -5's would be awesome for the street and short track.

I wouldnt be concerned about the rod ratio, just dont rev it past 7500. People always get so hung up on rod ratios and focused on the negative effects (cant rev it, engine wear etc). But the positive effects are also equally as good (massively improved cylinder filling make a huge improvement to low end torque).

Yes I do intend to sell these in a pre-assembled kit form but thats a fair way off. I want to have my prototype in the car running for some time first, and I also want to find someone to run a second prototype 3.2lt version in a drag car for me as well. Hopefully this can happen early next year. Thanks for the interest.

haha, perfect , thanks for the answer man.

yeah i have a friend thats going to supply me a new farndon 2.8...basically what the hks step 3 cranks were i think (you wouldnt believe the price im getting it for.....allitle more than a stock one costs). propblem here is....:P.....head is being built to take over 9000revs, big 278 - 10.8 lift cams, so, im very very scared running 1.5 rod ratio on a high revving 1.6-1.7 boost engine ....

obviousley cant be asking for a 60.000 km engine, bout woul like it to last quite a bit.

not shure if i should be posting this on this thread, but i have so many questions i cant find answers for hahaha, such as, if i went for sr20 rods, that would make a pretty acceptable rod ratio with a 77.7 crank, but arent these rods alittle wide? or would the crank have to be machined for them? would an open deck engine hold high revs without distorting? haha, been thinking about doing a high deck for so long, and now my engine is in bits and long time to finish it, its one of those things i can have on my to do list hehehe.

thanks again

simon

haha, perfect , thanks for the answer man.

yeah i have a friend thats going to supply me a new farndon 2.8...basically what the hks step 3 cranks were i think (you wouldnt believe the price im getting it for.....allitle more than a stock one costs). propblem here is....:P.....head is being built to take over 9000revs, big 278 - 10.8 lift cams, so, im very very scared running 1.5 rod ratio on a high revving 1.6-1.7 boost engine ....

obviousley cant be asking for a 60.000 km engine, bout woul like it to last quite a bit.

not shure if i should be posting this on this thread, but i have so many questions i cant find answers for hahaha, such as, if i went for sr20 rods, that would make a pretty acceptable rod ratio with a 77.7 crank, but arent these rods alittle wide? or would the crank have to be machined for them? would an open deck engine hold high revs without distorting? haha, been thinking about doing a high deck for so long, and now my engine is in bits and long time to finish it, its one of those things i can have on my to do list hehehe.

thanks again

simon

those cams and those revs are going to put alot of stress (read wear and tear) on ur valvetrain and other engine components. you really should look at atleast an annually tear down regime to keep everything in check and to avoid any catastrophic failures.

hot off the press

Flippin awesome! :)

A little different to the 2700 buck track nugget we just picked up...... we call this one "the 5k challenge", will be interesting to see how quick it is once it's down to around 950kg :(

Sorrento064.jpg

Sorrento063.jpg

Fast through corners, slow on straights. But still fast enough to ruffle a few feathers at track days :)

950 is still on the heavy side for a levin isn't it?

Can i suggest making it obnoxiously loud. That was half the fun of my car when it was NA.

Edited by badhairdave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...