Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SPEED was a great publication - was let down by GTR's wearing Falcon paint though!

As Targa Tasmania is a great event - though mine was soured by an unviewable in car camera!

*** this is purely for humour, Stu's cameras really are excellent **cough** :D

why anyone tracking there R32GTSt would want to ditch there RB20 is beyond me... for the price of a rebuild on a 25 you could buy 10 x RB20's and have them sitting in the shed as spares... blow one, just grab another... yes, I'm jealous

well I'm posting in this thread may as well put up a pic of the crapbox... currently sitting in the garage with a blown turbo... HKS 2835 is in the mail :D

gotta use all the road on those corner exits... :D

post-7369-1213155551_thumb.jpg

post-7369-1213155689_thumb.jpg

As Targa Tasmania is a great event - though mine was soured by an unviewable in car camera!

*** this is purely for humour, Stu's cameras really are excellent **cough** :)

You have PM mate.

That 34 sold yet?

Thought I might chime into this thread:

Here's my "Race Gazelle" that's bean in the workshop for 9 months (story of my life)

Stock as I bought it:

S12.jpg

Throw away this bit:

6.jpg

Put in this bit instead:

2.jpg

8.jpg

And you get this:

PICT0602.jpg

PICT0605.jpg

Add some skyline 4 piston brakes to the front:

PICT0603.jpg

And some R31 Skyline discs to the read to replace the drums:

PICT0610.jpg

Whack on a big front mount intercooler:

PICT0606.jpg

Loose the open wheel diff and replace with a detroit locker:

PICT0614.jpg

S13 Coilover conversion at the front:

PICT0620.jpg

Gauge me up baby - with all that you need including Wideband O2 connected to the Haltech:

PICT0623.jpg

And you are on the way to building a Race Gazelle

What you can't see is the :

Haltech E6X

One piece tailshaft

R33 Gearbox

8kg custom springs, lowered at the rear

Monroe Gas shockers (from an HG holden) at rear

S13 Custom Strut brace

Falken Semislicks on the front

D01J Dunlops on the rear

3.5" exhaust with metal cat

Should be a good little car when it's finished :)

Roy: Cheers for the reply, i have seen those graphs of yours before and they food for thought for sure. You pretty much got me with the name change, im putting together a fairly basic 26/30det looking for about 270-300 rwkw. I know i need to upgrade a few things on my car to take full advantage of the motor but i have a fair amount of bases already covered. That said i still plan to do a few more track days with the rb20 because after all these years its deserves it :)

Funky: cheers mate, and fwiw i bought every copy of speed lol.

Zennon: your smoking me oh wait, i just realised i didnt do the sprint track i did the clubman. What times do u have there?

Zennon: your smoking me oh wait, i just realised i didnt do the sprint track i did the clubman. What times do u have there?

you said you did the sprint track earlier? what track were your posted times for then?

zennon is pretty quick :)

my gtr was in the last issue too (before it was caged etc)... clearly they saved the best till last!

the photoshoot was such a pain though, the turbos were rooted on my car at the time and it wasn't boosting... i gave it to a mate to drive and i drove my mates 33 in the article.

post-5400-1213229489_thumb.jpg

Edited by t01-100

Haha clearly! They had to go out with a bang :banana:

Looks like we both had bad luck Stu... they hired Calder out for half a day for me for some slide shots. Third gear gave up after about 4 passes, had to get it towed, get a new box in it, then back out for another shoot the next day... yowzas!

yeah thats the issue, mine was part of the black 32/33/34 story.

was a bit of a last minute thing and my car was meant to be at the bodyworks to fix a flaking front bumper as well as the new N1's that needed to be fitted... we just used school book covering contact to hide the missing paint!

the 33 and 34 in the article were both owned by a mate of mine and he wasn't even in the country at the time!

More RB20s out there the better. Though i read Gts30t is going to the darkside, if nothing else the user name change hints at something fishy. So think you shoudl stick with the RB20, your car will be much quicker with the money spent elsewhere on the car!

I post this a lot, but is pretty good indicator of how the RB20 can do the job better then anyone credits:

gallery_462_50_14883.jpg

Comparison is both against RB25 NEO engines, both with GCG Hi-Flows, Bass Junky with same tuner and dyno and Poncams. Now tell me that the RB20 with the right diff ratio and turbo cant match bigger displacement RBs to the point where they are a huge hindrance.

LOL, stick with the RB20! Sooner or later you will ditch it, but shouldnt be on the must do list unitl lots of other things have been done :whistling:

Hey Brisby,

Do you have the same graph using rpm on the x-axis instead of speed?

Guess who's joined "club race car" as of today.

Brisby's gonna love me :D

http://www.my105.com.au/private_images/830...792803937_m.jpg

LOL. you wucken LEGEND!!!!!!!!!!!!! :P:D:(

I have been watching that for ages wondering when it was going to sell. I kept looking at it thinking cheap motorsport and a car that allows you to run in so many forms of motorsport with cheap parts and consumables :)

Again, congrats. Now i wonder how long until you crack it at the lil RB20 :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Will get it looked at before winter 🥶 other than that she's a mint ride love it aye 
    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
×
×
  • Create New...