Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most of the cars I put up have just been thru Photo shoots for Express publications so all the details will be out soon.

Their Improved production cars so the mods are not over the top.

GTiR may be ready for WAs round of the V8 Taxis.

Looks to be a GTS-R? But why oh wy does it have an RB25...so wrong :huh:

Meh torque, in a rwd drive is heavily over rated. :( All it does is turn tyres. I will take less torque and actually have traction and a wide power band giving me good drivability and be able to get on it mid corner :P

LOL, really i just like cheap motors that dont cost d1ck to replace in case something goes astray. :/

Meh torque, in a rwd drive is heavily over rated. :) All it does is turn tyres. I will take less torque and actually have traction and a wide power band giving me good drivability and be able to get on it mid corner :blush:

LOL, really i just like d1ck and cheap motors that dont cost much to replace in case something goes astray. :(

fixed

Love the S13, what class is it racing in?

And any more details on it?

Just posted a Vid (Spicers cup) Its Sportscar Steves just learning but winning Races already, V8 Supercars Run with him and he is beating them now.

He hit the wall in race 2 ,Will put that race up soon. We have 4 weeks to get it finished.

Dont confuse noise with Horsepower!

Every performance RB20 I've seen makes alot of noise but not moving very fast. Some may make decent HP but Fark all torque.

Ash

I hope that S14 of yours has an engne better then those getting around in most of the club cars in Vic :down:

Funny, there isnt an SR20 in our club that is really going faster then my GTSt and there are a few stripped and serious S13s or S14s, even S15. I have not been to the track in my car in almost 2 years and only recently has a seriously tweaked S14 with built motor gone 0.5 second quicker then me at Sandown, and a gutted S13 with good power go something like 0.2seconds quicker then me at Phillip Island....so considering these are the only SR20 cars just quicker then me, and have only dont the times recently with way more chassis and car overall.... i just dont understand how people can argue that the SR20 is clearly superior because even in lighter cars they are no quicker. In the wash i think they generally end up the same, they just go about it differently.

If i had of been in the country and still tracking my lowly std RB20 i no doubt would have improved on my pretty horrible laps....many have seen the footage of those laps and if you have you know its my rough house driving slowing the car down..

LOL, you got bite :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
×
×
  • Create New...