Show Me Your Racing Machines

[juggernaut1]

Here you go Dane,

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...04573&st=30

[phunky_monkey]

Champion

[Gts-t]

sweet It's the most fun I've had giving you head.....

I wish I could get complete heads as cheap as I sold that one now! Your head was lovingly removed and checked at prime garage so it should be good, in fact Tono at prime was going to buy it when he pulled it down, but I wanted it so we gave him the block/crank/rods/pistons out of that engine as a christmas present instead and kept the head!

it will be a pretty sweet donk when it's done. and I would hazard a guess all up not too pricey either since I know what the head cost ya! hehe.

Yeah it was good head, almost the best ive had hahah. Thanks again for the good price, i figured youd like to see a pic of where its ended up

I dedicded to reco the head anyway as i had it skimmed to go on the rb30 bottom end. Im not sure what its cost all up so far but yeah it wont cost a huge amount of dollars. I figured for the first motor ive built i would stick with as much standard parts as possible incase it goes bang. The power i can get from a stock rb26/30 should be more that enough for me to improve my lack of driving skills with.

The block has new standard .25 oversize mahle pistons, acl race bearings, arp rod bolts and jun crank collar. Im using new standard r33 gtr oil and water pumps. At this stage i havent decided if ill throw in some tomie cam gears or not. The machining and balancing of the rb30 cost around 1500 this included fitting the collar, the rod bolts, tapping for the high position tensioner and drilling out the oil galleries and i think modifying the big end oil feeds to be the same as the rb26 is. I was i little suprised with the price but it was done at a top workshop so i guess you pay that for top quality work.

At some point ill add it all up,not that i really want to know I still need to buy a set of -5's and a twin plate clutch for it, as well as the dump pipes and the inlet piping. Im thinking of the greddy suction kit and the mx front pipes and a nismo twin plate.

Edited September 7, 2009 by Gts30t

[phunky_monkey]

Shot you a PM about your 3071 Ian

[N I B]

I have 2 cars in the current Fast 4 Mag an Race magazine. The EVO and S14A I posted a few pages ago if anyones interested?

[phunky_monkey]

Ahhh good one, I'll be keen to check them out, especially the S14

[N I B]

S14 is in Race Magazine, EVO is in both.

[Beer Baron]

Yeah it was good head, almost the best ive had hahah. Thanks again for the good price, i figured youd like to see a pic of where its ended up

I dedicded to reco the head anyway as i had it skimmed to go on the rb30 bottom end. Im not sure what its cost all up so far but yeah it wont cost a huge amount of dollars. I figured for the first motor ive built i would stick with as much standard parts as possible incase it goes bang. The power i can get from a stock rb26/30 should be more that enough for me to improve my lack of driving skills with.

The block has new standard .25 oversize mahle pistons, acl race bearings, arp rod bolts and jun crank collar. Im using new standard r33 gtr oil and water pumps. At this stage i havent decided if ill throw in some tomie cam gears or not. The machining and balancing of the rb30 cost around 1500 this included fitting the collar, the rod bolts, tapping for the high position tensioner and drilling out the oil galleries and i think modifying the big end oil feeds to be the same as the rb26 is. I was i little suprised with the price but it was done at a top workshop so i guess you pay that for top quality work.

At some point ill add it all up,not that i really want to know I still need to buy a set of -5's and a twin plate clutch for it, as well as the dump pipes and the inlet piping. Im thinking of the greddy suction kit and the mx front pipes and a nismo twin plate.

it all sounds good. there is a fair bit of work in there so I would say $1500 is in the ball park. everything else sounds good too, one thing I'd consider changing though is the front pipes to the HKS stainless front pipes. they are true twin 70mm ID pipes and welded to the flanges on the inside to create a very smooth entry. being stainless they'll last forever so you can keep them for any twin set-up. most GTR fronts are only twin 60mm and especially with the 30 you will be flowing some good gas. they are expensive but worth it imo.

[Duncan]

I have 2 cars in the current Fast 4 Mag an Race magazine. The EVO and S14A I posted a few pages ago if anyones interested?

yeah it was a good read. race magazine deserves support, I'd hate to see it die while autosalon magazine survives

[Gts-t]

it all sounds good. there is a fair bit of work in there so I would say $1500 is in the ball park. everything else sounds good too, one thing I'd consider changing though is the front pipes to the HKS stainless front pipes. they are true twin 70mm ID pipes and welded to the flanges on the inside to create a very smooth entry. being stainless they'll last forever so you can keep them for any twin set-up. most GTR fronts are only twin 60mm and especially with the 30 you will be flowing some good gas. they are expensive but worth it imo.

Thanks baron,

i think i go that wrong about the front pipes they are not the mx ones but rather these ones im thinking of getting.

How do you rate these?

[N I B]

We all try to support Race Magazine in WA Motorsport.

[GTRNUR]

looking good. I think I'm entitled to a drive after it's done. it was my baby after all. going by this thread there is a little beer baron in everyone...

All going well I hope to have the engine in the car in 4 weeks, run in and test drive to Warwick in north NSW late october around the 20th. If you have a means of getting there yeah ill let you go for a lap.

Another update... The cylinder head is on at last and torqued to spec.

From the pics you can see the custom spacer plate and base plate gasket. Ive blocked the front oil supply to the head and run an external feed to the head via a -3 fitting that goes into the side of the spacer plate. This was done for a couple of reasons. Reliability being one, but also this eliminates the need for an oil restrictor as the plate is drilled with a 1.5mm hole to act as the restrictor.

Head studs are all 1/2" ARP. Im using a Nitto drag 88x 1.2mm metal head gasket. The dowels that locate the head/spacerplate/block are single piece dowel and interference fit the block and then 0 thou slip fit the head to ensure its going nowhere.

Ive ordered a Hi Octane sump extension today. Hope to have that welded onto a sump inside a week. Still waiting on an intake manifold gasket too as my Nissan genuine one arrived broken. Hopefully have a pair of GTRS's for it soon too.

Cheers,

Ian

[bigmikespec]

All going well I hope to have the engine in the car in 4 weeks, run in and test drive to Warwick in north NSW late october around the 20th. If you have a means of getting there yeah ill let you go for a lap.

Another update... The cylinder head is on at last and torqued to spec.

From the pics you can see the custom spacer plate and base plate gasket. Ive blocked the front oil supply to the head and run an external feed to the head via a -3 fitting that goes into the side of the spacer plate. This was done for a couple of reasons. Reliability being one, but also this eliminates the need for an oil restrictor as the plate is drilled with a 1.5mm hole to act as the restrictor.

Head studs are all 1/2" ARP. Im using a Nitto drag 88x 1.2mm metal head gasket. The dowels that locate the head/spacerplate/block are single piece dowel and interference fit the block and then 0 thou slip fit the head to ensure its going nowhere.

Ive ordered a Hi Octane sump extension today. Hope to have that welded onto a sump inside a week. Still waiting on an intake manifold gasket too as my Nissan genuine one arrived broken. Hopefully have a pair of GTRS's for it soon too.

Cheers,

Ian

Look awesome, like an affordable OSRB30!

[GTRNUR]

Look awesome, like an affordable OSRB30!

Yeah thats the goal. Cheap capacity, 87x87 though so its 3.1Lt.

I looked at other stroker engine kits before starting this project but they all pissed me off becuase they all cost so much and are designed for stupid amounts of power. There is no middle ground between an RB26 and a OS30 1400HP engine. And the 2.8 lt kits arent really 2.8lt so the $8k+ they cost is a big pill to swallow. I dont see the value in them. This will end up costing me about the same as a 8-900hp RB30 conversion would, but it wont have any fitment issues and will pass for stock a lot easier than an RB30 would... except for the big oil sump that is.

One more pic. This one is putting a smile on my face

Edited September 9, 2009 by GTRNUR

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

^^ looks great, nice idea with the spacer as well, cant wait for the results

[Beer Baron]

Thanks baron,

i think i go that wrong about the front pipes they are not the mx ones but rather these ones im thinking of getting.

How do you rate these?

they are good but have a few draw backs. 1. price (they are quite expensive) 2. fitment, with dumps that long they are a cnt to fit (so either more mucking around, or more cost depending on DIY or not) 3. weight, they use very thickwall stainless and they are very, very heavy. this can be bad if not hung and supported properly. 4. being a unique length you cannot mate to another front pipe or vice versa if yours get damaged or you want to change for some reason. also with it going onto a 30 they may be an even more bitch to fit with the head being that much higher than on a 26. the trust set-up is a good piece of gear performance wise though.

after trying a few combos and looking and many my current favourite is tomei expreme dumps with HKS drag type front pipes. the tomei dumps are the biggest bellmout design around, and that's what you want. you want to allow the exhaust gas to expand as much as possible, as soon as possible, so a big bell mouth into a 70mm+ pipe is a good way to go. even more so with the gas flow of a 30 behind it all. something to think about.

[Beer Baron]

Yeah thats the goal. Cheap capacity, 87x87 though so its 3.1Lt.

I looked at other stroker engine kits before starting this project but they all pissed me off becuase they all cost so much and are designed for stupid amounts of power. There is no middle ground between an RB26 and a OS30 1400HP engine. And the 2.8 lt kits arent really 2.8lt so the $8k+ they cost is a big pill to swallow. I dont see the value in them. This will end up costing me about the same as a 8-900hp RB30 conversion would, but it wont have any fitment issues and will pass for stock a lot easier than an RB30 would... except for the big oil sump that is.

One more pic. This one is putting a smile on my face

I love it mate!!! LOVE IT!

I have a strong desire to change your user name to "Mad Professor"... lol. it's going to be a winner, no doubt in my mind at all. most people would still be 'thinking about it' at this point (me included) and you are almost finished. hell you might have to make one for me soon. it has a lot of good things going for it. sleeves are good, spacer means you can keep original engine# or even use an n1 block if so inclined (though waste of money really in this case), plus everything else block wise is 26 so no need for sump adapters or extra tensioners etc. just have to deal with the extra 20mm of spacer (belt wise I mean). apart from that it should be pretty somple and should take up less space (height wise) than a 30/26 too, plus from memory it has better rod/stroke ratio too and has a nice square bore/stroke ratio too so it should still rev.

you the man!

[Gts-t]

they are good but have a few draw backs. 1. price (they are quite expensive) 2. fitment, with dumps that long they are a cnt to fit (so either more mucking around, or more cost depending on DIY or not) 3. weight, they use very thickwall stainless and they are very, very heavy. this can be bad if not hung and supported properly. 4. being a unique length you cannot mate to another front pipe or vice versa if yours get damaged or you want to change for some reason. also with it going onto a 30 they may be an even more bitch to fit with the head being that much higher than on a 26. the trust set-up is a good piece of gear performance wise though.

after trying a few combos and looking and many my current favourite is tomei expreme dumps with HKS drag type front pipes. the tomei dumps are the biggest bellmout design around, and that's what you want. you want to allow the exhaust gas to expand as much as possible, as soon as possible, so a big bell mouth into a 70mm+ pipe is a good way to go. even more so with the gas flow of a 30 behind it all. something to think about.

Yeah i have been looking at that exact combo as an alternative, but when i price it up on nengun or greenline it costs more than the trust kit. Not that cost is everything but it was mostly why i was leaning the trust way.

I dont like the hks dumps with the short seperated wastegates, i much prefer the length the trust ones keep the wastegate gas seperated for. I must admit i cant really decide what is better when it comes to having a decent length of serparation wiht the trust kit VS the bellmouth type of the tomei ones.

Being able to change the front pipes if they were damaged is a good thing with the tomei/hks option though. Fitting is not a problem as i ll be doing it myself and wont be paying for it to be done. All the cursing and swearing will be mine to enjoy, no doubt the extra height of the 30 will make it just that much more enjoyable

Cheers for the input baron

[Roy]

[shakes head] A high mount single turbo on an RB20 as a total package woulld be cheaper then Barons exhaust mani, dump and front pipe arrangement for a 26 LOL, thats why i am getting rid of my RB26 head

[CameronBNR32]

Thanks baron,

i think i go that wrong about the front pipes they are not the mx ones but rather these ones im thinking of getting.

How do you rate these?

Hey mate,

I was in the exact position a few months ago, I was looking at the Trust ones for the race car.

I went with the C.E.S race dump and front pipes one reason why is the Trust ones are twin 2.5" into 3" Y pipe, the CES is twin 3" into 3.5" Y pipe, the CES ones are ceramic coated steel and weight nothing, while the Trust ones are stainless steel, and they are around the same price.

Unfortunatly I didn't take any pics of them while they where off the car, but they are a very nicely made, and fit perfectly.