Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r32 rb25de head on the existing rb25 block and transfer all the existing rb20 stuff over to the new head, injectors, manifolds, ignition system etc. except use the rb25 turbo you talking about having.

rb25de head: ~$1000

GT-R valve springs: ~$100

Head Gasket: ~$500

That's assuming the rb25 bottom end is ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3240632
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How much did you pay for it? $2000?

You get what you pay for buddy, I hope you disclose all this when you go to on-sell the car to some poor unsuspecting person.

Nope.. because the job will be done properly this time.. :banana:

With proper parts.. and tools.. So there is no need to hide it.. the will be done right this time..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3241686
Share on other sites

Weetbix...........absolutely no taste............Cocoa Pops or Froot Loops at least.

Some shops get customers that bring in a wheelbarrow full of bits and peices and say 'Build me a car!'.

The shop says 'No way', so the moron wheels his barrow to the next shop, eventually someone will say OK.

To be fair, it happens with mod parts as well, some shops will sell you anything, other shops try to tell you what will work and what is a waste of $$$$.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3242403
Share on other sites

This was taken out from cylinder 1

The diameter of the pison is 85.95mm

The diameter of the bore is 86.05mm (standard bore is 86.0 - somone has been playing with toys they shouldnt of been!)

On the face of the piston is has imprinted "STD" and a big "1" in the middle. Mean anything?

the question I have is..

are these forgies?

What brand?

t938074_IMGP0135CROPPED.JPG

Edited by GTS4WD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3242735
Share on other sites

Id say, go and get the bores taken out .5mm over standard. Pretty sure every piston manufacturer has that oversize eg. ACL, Aries, HKS, CP, JE etc etc

Prices are average around 1200-1400 bucks for pistons and rings.

Rebore would be around $300ish

Getting Pistons fitted to Rods - Around $200

Hope you find this useful

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3243061
Share on other sites

Id say, go and get the bores taken out .5mm over standard. Pretty sure every piston manufacturer has that oversize eg. ACL, Aries, HKS, CP, JE etc etc

Prices are average around 1200-1400 bucks for pistons and rings.

Rebore would be around $300ish

Getting Pistons fitted to Rods - Around $200

Hope you find this useful

Andrew

Yeah mate.. all bits help.. :)

Can anoyone confrim they are forgies though?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3244478
Share on other sites

This was taken out from cylinder 1

The diameter of the pison is 85.95mm

The diameter of the bore is 86.05mm (standard bore is 86.0 - somone has been playing with toys they shouldnt of been!)

On the face of the piston is has imprinted "STD" and a big "1" in the middle. Mean anything?

the question I have is..

are these forgies?

What brand?

t938074_IMGP0135CROPPED.JPG

It's 0.1mm difference! - you have to have some clearance between the piston and bore. The spec for bore is nominal - there will be some manufacturing variations.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3244638
Share on other sites

It's 0.1mm difference! - you have to have some clearance between the piston and bore. The spec for bore is nominal - there will be some manufacturing variations.

True.. of MAX .05 (according to the workshop manual)

So the pistons would of been fine if they didnt f*ck around with the bore :) Dodgy deadshits!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3244675
Share on other sites

This was taken out from cylinder 1

The diameter of the pison is 85.95mm

The diameter of the bore is 86.05mm (standard bore is 86.0 - somone has been playing with toys they shouldnt of been!)

On the face of the piston is has imprinted "STD" and a big "1" in the middle. Mean anything?

the question I have is..

are these forgies?

What brand?

t938074_IMGP0135CROPPED.JPG

there defiantly forgies. The piston you have are sold by precision performance. they retail for $1500. they are some chinese brand but dont be to worried there no to bad really. these are mine that we put in rb30's for a cheaper optioned rebuild. Just put it all back together and drive it, as lond as there not damaged it will be sweet. cheers

04102006146.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177193-dilemma/page/2/#findComment-3244691
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...