Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone tried 2 afm on 1 circuit?

If 1 measures 2500mv,(random value) then 2 in series should measure 1250mv each? Would this be the general consensus?

Then adjust the afm percentage up to 200% so the ecu still see's its correct intake of air volume.

It's very simple actually. The structure of the typical Nissan AFM is not designed to take internal pressure. They are also not intended to run at high temperatures (although they do run win a hot engine bay, the air flowing through them is supposed to be cooler - from outside the engine bay).

They will take a certain amount of internal pressure. How much is an pen question.

They will take a certain amount of extra temperature. Same as above.

The sensing elements in a hotwire AFM are 1) the temperature sensor to measure the T of the incoming air before it goes over the hot wire and 2) the hot wire itself. The AFM needs to know the T of the incoming air so that it can correct the mass flow calculated from the electrical current needed to keep the wire at a fixed temperature. Colder air coming in cools the wire more at the same mass flow rate. Hotter air cools the wire less, resulting in less current needed. These things should have a wide enough range to cope with boosted air, but I would definitely prefer to run it post intercooler. There's no need to make it suffer by hitting it with >100°C air from the turbo.

I think the main problem is the amount of oil that gets on the elements when you put them on the pressure side of the turbo. We get enough trouble with that sort of stuff in the clean inlet side, let alone with turbo seal oil and recirc crankcase gases getting onto them.

  • Like 1

Nick in answer to your questions they take so called hot air fine that is why you see them mostly installed on the cold side of the cooler my standard one holds 20psi no problem and has for some time now.

My afr's are fine surprisingly they were fine when I did this mod and had the stock ecu in there as I needed to drive it from my place to the shed next door to put it on the dyno before I could play with tuning.

If there is a n issue with boost use the ford ranger unit that can be put into any size pipe hot air and air density is kind of irrelevant unless you are running the standard ecu if you are tunning your fuel and ignition maps the shitty out-dated afm system is just a voltage signal giving you a reference/load input point of when it puts x fuel in in correlation to rpm ect

I am no pioneer with this set up it has been done for years nizpro to my knowledge were the first really to do this and it is a fairly standard mod for them I am sure a heap of other shops do it also,

NB they warrant there work you have to fix shit yourself so im sure its fairly well tested.

2nd NB if you are a full hectik kebab eating mofo you can even use an external bov with this lol even better a solid steel intake pipe to get mad dose hahaha sorry just taking piss now :)

  • Like 1

On Z32's we use these :

http://www.selindesign.net/collections/frontpage/products/2nd-gen-dual-maf-translator







Edit: I'm a dumbass and didn't read the op date.

Edited by Super Drager

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...