Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wow! all the peices looks really good, i was going to get into over the uni holidayz and i think i just might looks like alot of effort but well worth the finished product (i hope) i going to buy a small bench ginder tomorrow (it is 125mm, 150watt, is this too small)??

yep. i did my plenum all by hand sanding it. man, u will know when to start buffing man, will be soooo smooth. it is totally worth it, just take your time, and dont rush

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 5 months later...

Post #17 I said...

"I’m never polishing anything again, at least nothing as complicated as an RB26 inlet plenum!"

Well, I must be a sadist, as bored yesterday, I paint stripped, cleaned, file finished and almost finished running a paper wheel over the stock BNR32 IC.

Now 6hours of sanding - yay. Worst part is, im not even into the shiny look. I want it to go natural matt silver.

I blame idle hands & beer + pinch of resentment over US shipping times.

Edited by GeeTR
  • 1 month later...

www.yellowpages.com.au :ermm:

on another note.. i did my silvia's intercooler piping to 1500 or 2000 grit wetndry on the stainless piping.. NEVER again.. turned out great tho but f**k that.. closest ill come to polishing now is hitting welds on ic piping to take the burn mark off with the hard stitched wheel.. other than that i try to buy my piping polished already.. saves me alota work

www.yellowpages.com.au :wacko:

on another note.. i did my silvia's intercooler piping to 1500 or 2000 grit wetndry on the stainless piping.. NEVER again.. turned out great tho but f**k that.. closest ill come to polishing now is hitting welds on ic piping to take the burn mark off with the hard stitched wheel.. other than that i try to buy my piping polished already.. saves me alota work

Have you tried Ali-Brite on your welds? i have a bottle just need to try it out. Mate of mine swears by this stuff to clean the oxide off the welds, less work on the polishing wheel

Ali-Brite is basically sulfuric acid and water. i have some of my old learning welds, just need some time to run a test with this stuff.

Other trick with the welds, pre soaped steel wool from coles - works awesome as the marks from that buff out easy too.

Please explain how you polished parts using the yellow pages ?

Do you use the white pages first and then the yellow or is it the other way around ???

hahahaha - im guessing he'll be outsourcing polishing from now on

Have you tried Ali-Brite on your welds? i have a bottle just need to try it out. Mate of mine swears by this stuff to clean the oxide off the welds, less work on the polishing wheel

Ali-Brite is basically sulfuric acid and water. i have some of my old learning welds, just need some time to run a test with this stuff.

Other trick with the welds, pre soaped steel wool from coles - works awesome as the marks from that buff out easy too.

hahahaha - im guessing he'll be outsourcing polishing from now on

i have been meaning to buy some more pickling paste :wacko:

and yes.. i absolutely hate polishing if i can i get it done elsewhere

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...