Jump to content
SAU Community

Common Problems With The Coupe

T88turbo
 Share

Recommended Posts

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted
Flat head screw driver goes here and lift, snap out they come :domokun:

Need to take them off when taking off the door trim

Finally did it, cracked them out and replaced with new parts....

Hm, driver side went ok, but I cracked my passenger side (the old one)...

pics here....

post-328-1252110330_thumb.jpg

So becareful anyone attempted this, they need some medium-hard yank down the bottom side with a flat head

then work your way carefully to dislodge the side clips, dont force them cos obviously they're a bit fragile...

Of course this is if you plan to put them back on, e.g. just for removing door trim purposes for speaker install, etc...

If you plan to replace them like mine, don't worry, crack it, break it, dump it. :-)

I'm also keeping the box lids where they've got the part # on in case I need to re-order new ones in case they're broken again....

Left (passenger) = 80945-AM800

Right (driver) = 80944-AM800

THESE WILL ONLY FIT V35 COUPES! (Sedan has different slant angle)

post-328-1252110339_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

nicko370
nicko370

Yeah who knew?  Mot me. But the mechanic at Tokyo Prestige was straight onto it. Whipped the wheel off, smeared a small amount of grease on the mounting surface, reassembled with wheel nuts done nice

T88turbo
T88turbo

INFINITI'S ARE ASSEMBLED IN THE USA, BUT THE PARTS ARE MADE IN JAPAN. YANKS DON'T KNOW HOW TO BUILD CARS FOR SHIT, THE JAPANESE ARE ONE OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD.

Posted Images

V35 350GT Contributor

V35 350GT

Posted
Posted
Finally did it, cracked them out and replaced with new parts....

Hm, driver side went ok, but I cracked my passenger side (the old one)...

pics here....

post-328-1252110330_thumb.jpg

So becareful anyone attempted this, they need some medium-hard yank down the bottom side with a flat head

then work your way carefully to dislodge the side clips, dont force them cos obviously they're a bit fragile...

Of course this is if you plan to put them back on, e.g. just for removing door trim purposes for speaker install, etc...

If you plan to replace them like mine, don't worry, crack it, break it, dump it. :-)

I'm also keeping the box lids where they've got the part # on in case I need to re-order new ones in case they're broken again....

Left (passenger) = 80945-AM800

Right (driver) = 80944-AM800

THESE WILL ONLY FIT V35 COUPES! (Sedan has different slant angle)

post-328-1252110339_thumb.jpg

So what do you think went wrong with the one that cracked??

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

I yank it too hard from the bottom part, causing it to bend too much on the way out...

once you've yanked the bottom part out, work your way up by leveraging from under the cap and slightly spread the sides out so it snap out of the clips easier, don't bend it too much outwards...

  • 4 months later...
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

well I think either time or the 46C heat yesterday (or maybe combination) finally killed my passenger door lock actuator.

it won't trigger lock/unlock via the remote anymore. any idea how much it cost and if it is DIY?

V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted
well I think either time or the 46C heat yesterday (or maybe combination) finally killed my passenger door lock actuator.

it won't trigger lock/unlock via the remote anymore. any idea how much it cost and if it is DIY?

Make sure you haven't pressed the lock down button on the driver side controls :banana:

i got fooled for a bit with that

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

no the door lock button is to lock/unlock... that only locks/unlock driver side now. the other one is for windows lock. no other buttons.

as well as the alarm remote/fob key.

damn - Chris said it's not really DIY, need to strip down passenger door down to shell to get to the actuator...

I can only unlock the passenger car from inside the car now by pushing on the door handle button.

but when I unlock/lock using fob, I can hear the passenger side actuator working but it doesn't open.

maybe some kind of a catch got loose in the passenger side so the actuator wasn't pulling/pushing anything... :-(

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

on any of the cars I have done alarms on that door switch will run BOTH locks. the actuator is stuffed. there is no fixing it as the entire thing is sealed and it is the door catch as well. ask millos when yu see him next as I did his when I was last down there.

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted

Chris,

The day after I picked my car up, the passenger window dragged/bounced when I wound it down and it hasn't been operating correctly since. Then yesterday the drivers window was playing up (when you close the door and it auto winds up against the door seal, it would wind down again).

The dealership gave me your card (for the audio conversion stuff). Do you offer services replacing the window motors?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      Short shifter r34

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Diff oil

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • GTSBoy
      Short shifter r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Diff oil

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...