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Ok, coupe arrived today. Battery was flat. Cannot start car.

Once window is wind down, it cannot wind back up. This makes sense because lifting up window may require extra force, and the battery has not enough force to do that.

2nd stupid thing that I can't understand:

Turned headlight on, and now it cannot be turned off. Does this have anything to do with battery???

The only way to turn off headlight while the battery is low is by disconnecting the battery terminal.

Now the car sits in the garage (lucky) with windows down.

Ok I can understand windows won't wind back up with not enough battery power, but headlights won't turn off???

  • 4 months later...

My second v35 has same annoying power window behaviour as first - when going auto up, it hits the top and flicks back down 1/4 way. I think it's because it's travelling to fast and hits the top thinking something is impeding it? Anyone have this or found a way to solve or slow down?

Mark, you need to re-set the window motor

do a search its been posted already..

Hay Warren, nice one - found your post with link to g35driver. I know what I'll be doing next weekend (pulling the inner door lining off!)

  • 5 months later...
Ok, coupe arrived today. Battery was flat. Cannot start car.

2nd stupid thing that I can't understand:

Turned headlight on, and now it cannot be turned off. Does this have anything to do with battery???

The only way to turn off headlight while the battery is low is by disconnecting the battery terminal.

Ok I can understand windows won't wind back up with not enough battery power, but headlights won't turn off???

haha...yep...happened to me last nite....battery went dead (orig Jap batt)...lights wouldn't turn off,..figure that the relays don't have enough charge to 'de-energize', hence it sticks.

Now...to try and find a battery....I believe that 400-420 CCA should do it.......problem is, all the batts I looked at today are 330 (in the same form factor) or have large posts.

I'll keep looking!

  • 2 months later...
apologies for mining but did you find one. If not the Optima deep cycle AGM is an excellent choice.

Yes...from SparesGalore in Ferntree Gully....

Thin power posts, pos on the right hand side, 420 CCA, Magic eye, sealed unit.....99 buh....(SupaCharge Gold with 3 year warranty)

It died a week and a half later, got a new one under warranty, seems to kick ass now....but...

......Car's been in the workshop the last week and a half (while I was in hospital) ,getting a new drivers side door lock actuator, new rotors and pads, and a new gear 6M box...(from a 350Z).

It's prolly be dead flat again!...mecahnics and panel beaters have a way of stuffing batts up!...for some reason, I find.

Hopefully get her back next week....with no issues.

OK guys i got a new one for you.

When i drive the car at speeds 110km+ and go over bumps or when a road train goes past my windows move up and down like the door is opening. and the interior lights,door lights and the open doors indicatior comes on. How is this fixed?

I think its go something to do with a touchy sensor

Also the faster it goes the more it happens. I was testing at 160km and windows were going crazy, UP DOWN UP DOWN, lights flashing. It also might be something to do with air presure

Mine is the sedan not the coupe, but I have had problems with the Engine Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash. There is nothing wrong with the engine but it seems the cam sensor keeps tripping the warning light every so often. I'm getting it looked into again as to the best fix ie change the faulty cam sensor. It has no effect on the car and it's running absolutely sublimely, but it is a pain!

Also the faster it goes the more it happens. I was testing at 160km and windows were going crazy, UP DOWN UP DOWN, lights flashing. It also might be something to do with air presure

my money is on the door actuator the one that detects if your door is open or closed. check both of them on the drivers and passengers side.

  • 2 weeks later...

in the last 3 months....I've had 'fixed'....

Gearbox rebuild...$4000

Driver's door lock actuator $400

Fuel Flap/door motor $N/A (fixed myself from spares)

Battery $100

Passenger Power window motor $400

Clutch and Fly wheel (no, not part of the gear-box!) $1500

Brembo brake pads/rotors renewed $400

mmmmmm.......good farking thing I didn't have to pay for it!

Extended warranty really is a good thing.

Battery came out of my own pocket....fair enough.

  • 1 month later...
in the last 3 months....I've had 'fixed'....

Gearbox rebuild...$4000

Driver's door lock actuator $400

Fuel Flap/door motor $N/A (fixed myself from spares)

Battery $100

Passenger Power window motor $400

Clutch and Fly wheel (no, not part of the gear-box!) $1500

Brembo brake pads/rotors renewed $400

mmmmmm.......good farking thing I didn't have to pay for it!

Extended warranty really is a good thing.

Battery came out of my own pocket....fair enough.

why the box rebuild? Just for the sake of it? Or thrashing it?

in the last 3 months....I've had 'fixed'....

Gearbox rebuild...$4000

Driver's door lock actuator $400

Fuel Flap/door motor $N/A (fixed myself from spares)

Battery $100

Passenger Power window motor $400

Clutch and Fly wheel (no, not part of the gear-box!) $1500

Brembo brake pads/rotors renewed $400

mmmmmm.......good farking thing I didn't have to pay for it!

Extended warranty really is a good thing.

Battery came out of my own pocket....fair enough.

who cover your extended warranty???

mine is 24/7 and I've been told central locking wasn't cover, I've read the policy and didn't mention central locking or door locking device only electric windows, cost $400.

Anyway for those willing to look at the door locking device, I got the faulty one you can have it if you want to open it up, replace the motor or anything you want to do with it... just pick it up!

Also 2nd hand battery for V35, original battery working fine, was replaced co'z I thought that was the problem, you can have it for $50 with 3 months money back warranty!

I just got my car today and it stalls on a warm start. It just needs a blip of the throttle then tis fine, but it seems to idle low but still within limits. I'm gonna have it checked by the dealer first thing. It'll either be the maf or TB but i just got the freaking thing I dont want to start pulling it apart!

Also the gearbox and clutch is tight but it chatters when I turn the engine off and the clutch out. Nothing with the clutch in. Its the only time i get any gearbox noise.

Any ideas?

1. Mine has an annoying drivetrain ticking, actually it's more like a tocking. It's there clutch in or out but only at idle.

It can only be heard in the cabin, outside it's inaudible. Is this the infamous flywheel chatter?

2. The clutch travel has a notch about half way up. Feels like the sticky travel you would get from an old freyed clutch cable.(which these don't have)

Almost fixed my problem with the doors. Had to put a stopper on the door so it would push hadder onto the sensor. No problems at 110 or 120km, the door lights flash and windows move up and down only at and past 160km.

Maybe bigger stopper??

post-60315-1242376267_thumb.jpg

Has anyone notice when first starting up, most times for me, and when the initial rev occurs a rattle type sound?? (hope that is a good description!)

Also as mosoto stated about when in idle there is a slight rattling occuring, you can here this on the outside on the drivers side?? (sounds like a flywheel type sound I suppose)

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