Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everyone that has a 2003 coupe might experience this.

I started my car this morning usually let it idle for 5 mins to warm up.

When i took off doing under 10km/h the car changed from 1st to second. I got this grinding/ recoil noise from the front. After that it didnt happened. I stopped and tried it again nothing even when changing gears on the highway.

Second time started it up after 5 hours put it into DRIVE, drove under 10km/h changed 1st to 2nd same thing grind for a split second then nothing.

Im a member of the G35 club in the USA, asked them questions and there were even threads regarding this matter. Apparently its the ABS initialising and doing a check. Some of the guys own 05, 06 & 07 models. They said it happened to theirs after only having 1000km/h on the clock. So it must be the ABS checking. There are probably a dozen threads on this problem and all the guys said its normal. Anyone experiencing this?

Yep, got the same thing in my 05 Coupe.

Was a bit worried the first time I heard it, but then as you said noticed it was only doing it when you first drive after start up, so I assumed, don't laugh, it was some sort of pressurising of the brake fluid, in the lines.

Good to know it's normal :-)

Yep, got the same thing in my 05 Coupe.

Was a bit worried the first time I heard it, but then as you said noticed it was only doing it when you first drive after start up, so I assumed, don't laugh, it was some sort of pressurising of the brake fluid, in the lines.

Good to know it's normal :-)

Yeh, That is ABS test or inital something.

If you are luck put your food on break pad at the same time (Just like me when i approch the garage door ) you will fell the pad same same respond as ABS break kick into in hard breaks.

That is common take it easy.

Coming to think of it and describing the exact noise i wound't say its a grinding noise. Think of a spring recoiling thats what it sounds like.

Yep normal it is even mentioned in the owners manual that I got with my car. It was printed by the company that complied the car.

I don't experience that.... hmmm. Maybe thats cos I have reset my ECU cos previously all warning lights used to come up... Since then, I've experienced little any electronic intrusion compared to before when my VDC used to cut in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
    • I'm looking for a direct bolt on turbo upgrade for my 93 R33 GTST.  Anyone have experience with this Greddy T620Z turbo upgrade? I'd like to be able to run about 300hp to the rear wheels without putting too much strain on the turbo. I do daily drive the car.  Pretty stock car with basic bolt ons (exhaust outlet, down pipe, high flow cat and catback exhaust along with intake and FMIC).  I'l probably have a Haltech plug n play on the car before installing the turbo. https://www.greddy.com/products/turbo-upgrade-ecr33-er34-t620z-rb25-11520057   Also, any thought on this much boost on a 30 year old motor with 250,000KMs?  Engine feels/sounds strong for what it's worth.   Thanks you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...