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I do have one major issue with the 300v chrono oil change issue. That is that after buying my 4 litre oil bottle and filter and changing the oil the oil level with only 4 litres is on the L line.

So off i go to Repco to buy my second 4 litre of Chrono 300v.

SO this oil change so far has cost me $210.

I do have 3 litres left over so that will give me 3 x $115 oil changes before i have to pay $215 again.

Major price for a oil change. I never would have spent this much on oil before.

Not sure if anyone mentioned this but 300v is sold in a 2lite bottle as well for just a tad over half the cost of the 4. I used to use it but now i use 8100xcess 5w40; still 100% synthetic and a better cold start viscosity.

I do my changes at 3000 or every 4months but if i do 3000kms in under 2months then i wont change the oil filter as i know they are good for a while longer.

A good oil filter should not disintergrate and should last 10000kms or about a year; unlike the BMW cartridge filters which show signs of wear quite quickly.

Anyone know how long say a drift, reco or coopers filter lasts before the filter element starts to breakdown????

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I've always run Turbolight 4100 with genuine filter but going to give the 300V a try next oil change to compare.

A few people have said its given them a noticeable difference with lifter noise so time will tell!!!

Not sure if anyone mentioned this but 300v is sold in a 2lite bottle as well for just a tad over half the cost of the 4. I used to use it but now i use 8100xcess 5w40; still 100% synthetic and a better cold start viscosity.

I do my changes at 3000 or every 4months but if i do 3000kms in under 2months then i wont change the oil filter as i know they are good for a while longer.

A good oil filter should not disintergrate and should last 10000kms or about a year; unlike the BMW cartridge filters which show signs of wear quite quickly.

Anyone know how long say a drift, reco or coopers filter lasts before the filter element starts to breakdown????

have you notice any differences between the 2 oil?

Motul and the 4L thing really pisses me off one of the reasons I decided to run Roual Purple when I got my Skyline

I have been running it for over 2 years and am extremely happy with it. When I pulled the 25 the bottom end and bearings were in great condition and it was a high K motor.

A mate of mine has run Royal purple in his 32GTR for a long time now and it was recently pulled down and it astounded the engine builder that it was in such good nick.

I now only buy it from Elite Racing as he does a excellent price on a 20L pack.

I am now using the Drift Brand magnetic oil filters from autobarn that URAS posted up a little while ago as they are the same price as the K&N's I used to run and have a fair bit more technology in there...

Motul 8100 5W40 for me. Thats all I have ever run the RB30DET on aside from running it in on castrol mineral oil.

Interested to know why the Ryco Oil Filters are supposedly no good? I run mine with an oil filter magnet. End up with the same thing as the Drift magnetic filters, but you keep swapping the magnet over. Heres the thread I started on them http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...amp;hl=magnetic

have you notice any differences between the 2 oil?

Brilliant oil the 8100xcess is; basically its got better cold start properties, similar quality still 100% synthetic and it costs 65bux compared to 150for 6litres of 300v.

Motul and the 4L thing really pisses me off one of the reasons I decided to run Roual Purple when I got my Skyline

Again ill just repeat, they sell 2litre bottles for 50bux at autobarn; 100bus for 4 litres and 50bux for 2litres = 150bux for 6 litres and the next time u have an oil change you have 1 litre left over so its only 100bux for 4litres + 1leftover.

I've just used the royal purple in the RX7 but only because I couldn't get any 300V chrono near where I was. It's ok but imo the 300V is still the way to go. don't forget there is a big difference between the various so called "100% Synthetics". The 300V is the top shelf group V 100% ester base synthetic. If you want to know where your money goes do a little search on the difference between group III, IV and V base stock.

Ok guys i need some input here

I went to Auto barn as i get god prices on stuff there family discount and shit but they have told me to stay clear of full sythin oils in my daily driven skyline. Can you tell me why or if i should. I am using semi sythn penrits oil.

This is the answer i have gotten from every user of this oil. Thanks for the info I think from now on this is the only oil i will get for my car.

15 months later i am still using the same oil. I have not had one engine failure and I can be known to give my engine a hard time.

I have had to replace my crank (issue with the keyway because of a buil stuff up) and all the bearings were fine, they still had the new markings on them and looked like new.

I have seen many engines fail in the last 15 months, none of them were using Motul 300v Chrono.

300v = alive & happy engine IMHO.

Oil change cheez cost me 300 bucks plus filter LOL Bloody 8 litre sumps. & yes use Chrono V the gear.

lol, same here :/ 8 litre 26 sump, plus oil cooler. d'oh! wanna go halvies in a big drum of chrono 300V? :/

I think I posted this in the last oil thread but hey ...

I friend of mine has been in working in the car and motorbike industry all his life and he's got to see the inside story on oil and marketing .

His claim is that Motul is into agressive marketing but sell on price . He told me the only Motil oil worth pissing on is the top grade synthetic one - I guess any oil supplier can make good oil in the high price range area .

Because he's had a lot to do with and been inside countless motorbike engines I think he is qualified to comment on what lives and what doesn't .

I quizzed him one day about these engines and its easy to forget that in that environment (high revs/cooling system challenges) motorbike engines give their oil a hard time , so it sounds like what's good in a small high reving engine is also good in a larger engine in a lesser state of tune - provided the heat/viscosity range is right .

Long story short , he likes the Mobil 1 Racing 4T 15W50 synthetic because hard worked bikes he's been involved with survive quite well on it . He thinks it's very close to the top Motul synthetic oil and could go either way on price and availibility . Racing 4T is also sold in I think 1 and 4 litre containers though he said some of the better bike workshops get it in 44's so would no doubt sell you 5 litres if you rocked up with a clean container .

One tale he told me and I think R33 Racer confirmed was that HRT used this Mobil 4T synthetic and used to sometimes pinch the stuff as it came in if supplies were short .

I'd like to think that if this oil can survive V8 super car abuse your average hotted up road RB wouldn't go west on it .

IMO the things that kill oil are heat and contamination so if it's had a hard time change it and the filter - it's the only way .

A .

lol, same here :/ 8 litre 26 sump, plus oil cooler. d'oh! wanna go halvies in a big drum of chrono 300V? :/

I will be in for that. Group buy.. do you use the Lemans or the comp ?

I am a big fan of the Motul 8100. Great oil as I use my skyline as a daily driver (good cold start properties). Would give the 300V a go but the fact it doesn't come in 5 liters and the increased price means I just can't justify it. My car doesn't get used on the track either, just spirited street driving.

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