Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

Cleaning out some stuffs from my Series 1.5 R33 thats lying around.

Items

1. Coilpacks x6 to suit series 2 engines - - $100 (and you get a free Splitfire cardboard box! :domokun:)

2. Complete stock exhaust from turbo (front/dump pipe, cat, catback) - $100 (will seperate, PM me for prices)

3. Rear bar from Series1 - $60

4. Turbo - SOLD

5. ECU - Offers? Not sure what they are worth...

6. HID Xenon Conversion Kit - SOLD

Condition

1. Excellent. Came out of car with about 90,000k's. Upgraded to Splitfires.

2. Very good. Came off car after about 90,000k's. Upgraded to full 3"

3. Very good. Was removed from car at around 100,000k's. Upgraded to Trial rear bar.

4. Excellent. Was removed due to upgrade at around 110,000k's. Has very minimal shaft play, never ran over 10psi. Bought a highflow

5. Excellent. Everything was working when removed. Upgraded to PFC.

6. Excellent. H1 (suit R33, not sure of other vehicles) 6000k. Has not been fitted into my car, but the guy i bought them off had them in his car for a short while. Apparently he got over them so i bought them and was going to fit them but my plans have changed now :(

All prices are slightly negotiable.

Not really keen on shipping the exhaust and rear bars, but everything else I will ship at buyers expense.

If any questions or interest, reply here or send PM.

:laugh:

Musky

post-25513-1185172663_thumb.jpg

Edited by Musky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177410-r33-bits/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey im interested in that front pipe. is it a 3' and just a front pipe?.. what front bar?, stock series1?.thanx

Sorry, should've mentioned the exhaust from turbo is all stocko. And its a white stock series 1 m-spec front bar.

In the process of getting pics of everything.

EVERYTHING is negotiable, just want it all gone!

:cool:

Musky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177410-r33-bits/#findComment-3243865
Share on other sites

No its not genuine bud, its a GTR 'style' grill to suit GTS. I assume it would fit N/A, i cant see it being any different. Its not ready to be put on, its needs some prepping (priming and then painting, but im no panel beater so im not too sure what it needs) as it only has a gel coat on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177410-r33-bits/#findComment-3275785
Share on other sites

what kind of coilpacks r they??? stockers??? if so what condition r they in?? how many kms have they done???

they are stockies and are in excellent condition! They've done around 90,000 k's before i swapped them for Splitfires.

$50 for grill? how much to post to melb

$50 is a bit low sorry mate. i doubt postage aus wide would be more than $15.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177410-r33-bits/#findComment-3277427
Share on other sites

ey dude can i pik that strut bar up off yah get bak to me asap make payment thank you no one seems to want to sell me a strut bar can u confirm will it fit a r33 s1 gts-t 95

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177410-r33-bits/#findComment-3278493
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The previous switchover point was 501mv. The stock value is like ~360. They now were idling at about ~880. The thing is, most people get a false lean condition. I am getting false rich conditions. This isn't a quirk of terminology, most cam upgraders get awful fuel economy because the O2's read false lean and add fuel - Mine are attempting to aggressively subtract fuel.
    • So... the whole idea was to upgrade the power of the motor from stock. The motor I bought with the gearbox had 'some' stuff done to it in the past, but it wasn't as well thought out/what I had wanted to do. The stock heads typically are a big restriction on LS's and need porting to unlock quite a lot of power. You can then go a bit silly with aftermarket castings to get more, aftermarket intake manifolds for a little more, and then porting those for more. <- We are here. Nobody in Australia really goes down this path (for some reason). It might* make 3kw or something more than doing things the tried and true path for 10X the cost. So that's probably why - I wouldn't even recommend it to people, the money was and is likely better spent on just CNC'ing the stock heads and putting a 6.3L stroker kit in. I didn't want to go down the 'normal' path and then think: But if I'd just done a bit more - I could have had a slightly better result. I assumed the heads were running out of flow and it always annoyed me - Turns out the previous installer advanced the cam 6 degrees so this is likely why it was coming on earlier and running out of puff earlier than advertised. The body panels were just lack of planning/no information on this anywhere on the internet and the fact they came out different was annoying. From test fitting the guard it appears I could have gotten away with GTR guards only, but I got the bonnet and raisers and everything else as well for a pretty decent package deal.
    • So you had a car that by all accounts drove well and survived track days, and that was looking great after months of being stuck at a paint shop. Some might call that a finished project. But you decided this is not quite right. So now the car does not run anymore. And the engine doesn't fit anymore. And the body parts don't match anymore. But, this is progress somehow. Greg, I think your subconscious does not like you and does not want you to drive this car. (I know I know, this whole escalation was not intended, but man, what a rollercoaster)
    • Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
×
×
  • Create New...