New Baby Has Landed - Baby = Gtr

[GTR32GUS]

Them prices are for the pair

what i wrote is wrong i think that i have confused u , so in will try again the standard nissan brakes are 296mm on the front and 297mm on the rear these brakes were on the early model non v-spec gtr`s

The brembo were on the v-spec r32 and later models im not sure about the year they are 324mm on the front and 300mm on the back

The first thing to check is what u have on your car if u got the brembo get (10. R32 GTR (late model)/R33 GTR/R34 GTR: F=7701G 324mm RRP $575, R=7702G 300mm RRP $525) if u got the nissan brake get

(8. R32 GTR (early models): F=7926G 296mm RRP $440, R=908G 297mm RRP $285)

Are your current rotors worn ??

Edited July 24, 2007 by GTR32GUS

[Michele]

Are your current rotors worn ??

Fronts are new (from compliance I imagine), solid (not slotted or drilled from memory) and not the best looking quality, I imagine it was a minimum - not that I'm an expert.

Rears are drilled and therefore (I'm told) prone to cracking and do appear to be borderline in condition.

I think I have the standard Nissan brakes.

[yaf28f]

Cool, looks like you have the same Alpine head unit as me.

Congradulations on the purchase and I really recommend the torque split controller from Duncan. Saves the backend snapping out so often.

[Michele]

Cool, looks like you have the same Alpine head unit as me.

Congradulations on the purchase and I really recommend the torque split controller from Duncan. Saves the backend snapping out so often.

Original Alpine head unit = Japanese radio stations which are a bit too far for me to pick up

Who/where is Duncan... how much will it cost?? hehe more to fit into my wish list now

Someone HELLPPP I've got the bug something bad.

[Darkon]

Thanks, I thought it may have meant

F=FRONT

R=REAR

I imagine prices quotes are for a pair... or is it each?

thats the recommended retail price, shot him a pm for a proper qoute excellent bloke to deal with i just got the rda slotted put on my 33 a few weeks back with ferodo 2500's very happy bit scarey that the pads cost more the rotors lol

highly recommend this group buy wont find prices cheaper

[GTR32GUS]

Fronts are new (from compliance I imagine), solid (not slotted or drilled from memory) and not the best looking quality, I imagine it was a minimum - not that I'm an expert.

Rears are drilled and therefore (I'm told) prone to cracking and do appear to be borderline in condition.

I think I have the standard Nissan brakes.

http://www.nismo.com.au/ STAGE 1 BRAKE UPGRADE KIT FOR SKYLINE R32 GTR

If u have got the standard 296mm front rotors u might want to upgrade to the 324mm front rotor (since u are changing them anyhow), that kit about half way down , it uses caliper adapters on the normal calipers , i heard the same thing about drilled rotors

with the torque split controller it is worth noting that it turns the car into a full time 4wd u lose the attessa , ie where u have no power to the front wheels through the corner and power to the front as u leave the corner , just to give u something else to think about

Edited July 24, 2007 by GTR32GUS

[yaf28f]

Original Alpine head unit = Japanese radio stations which are a bit too far for me to pick up

Who/where is Duncan... how much will it cost?? hehe more to fit into my wish list now

Someone HELLPPP I've got the bug something bad.

The TSC actually doesn't turn the car into a full time 4WD

what it does it basically makes more use of the G-sensors to detect how hard you and turning and you can adjust how much power you want to the front wheels.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...9301&hl=tsc

hopefully it will be useful for you.

Edited July 25, 2007 by yaf28f

[Scooby]

Now its time to do my own mods, I've been talking to Trojan and they said I should start with HKS-GTSS Turbos $4000 + Fit $2200.

Car looks great, clean and straight GTRs are very nice, very rare, and a pleasure to own. I put 40k trouble free km on mine barring a dodgy AFM, stock as a rock except for Nismo exh, and enjoyed every minute of it.

With respect to you and the fact that I don't know your experience level, I'd suggest starting with the basics and eliminating the weak links, make sure the engine is healthy first if you haven't done so already ie comp/leakdown test and dyno run. Then tackle the turbos to make sure they won't lose an exh wheel and dump ceramic dust in your engine. For now I'd put that restrictor back in to be honest. Sure it should be OK but 15 psi/1 bar is the practical limit for ceramic turbos - do you want to take the chance? A well treated stock RB26 even with a $1500 steel wheeled standard turbo conversion will safely make 250 rwkw for a long time with a good tune , although to get there you might need a PFC or remap. Overdriving the injectors and a boost controller is another way. Drive a well set up 250 rwkw car if you have access to one and see if it gets your attention. Even a stock 170 rwkw GTR with exhaust will step out under power in corners, powerful and quick aren't always the same.

Croydon have 2860-7s ie Garrett ie Nissan R34 N1 versions of the HKS GTSS for $2300 pair. Add another $400 for some HKS or R34 GTR dumps from the Jap auctions. Don't pay more than $1000 or so for fitting including gaskets, fluids and proper Glenlock nuts on the turbos and dumps. Takes a comfy 8 hours to r and r turbos if you know your way around them, at a generous $100 /hour thats $800 for labour. If you go that way get the exh manifold outlet 'gasket matched' to the turbo as the stock ones aren't.

Also make sure your cat is not blocked and that some wally hasn't put a 2.5 in front flange on it. It happens. Think carefully if you are tempted by pod filters, the stock airbox is probably good for 300 rwkw +.

It'll be expensive but if the car is as good as it looks spend the time, and unfortunately $, to make sure the thing works as a GTR should. Attessa needs to be bled and working correctly, and make sure your wheel alignment (don't laugh, people run huge camber and wonder why the thing tramlines uncontrollably) is on the money. The Whiteline Suspension kit that Sydneykid sells is a good thing. Hornsby Nissan knows stock GTRs very very well. Expensive but worth it if you want to know what you've got and what you haven't in that car.

And (again, sorry if I'm telling you to suck eggs) remember it's a GTR and doesn't behave at all like a WRX or Audi

Quattro in corners. In particular don't go flinging it at a hairpin expecting it to stick because it's a 'GTR', because it will bite you. When you get to know it well enough, and can actually feel the effect of Hicas, decide for yourself if you want to get rid of it - if you're not happy/intending to mess about at the limit of adhesion you may want to just leave it alone. Worth doing a check to see if it's even working in the first place.

Re the brakes, standard GTR calipers will lock up R compound tyres so ask yourself if you really need those shiny new Brembos / big brake kits everyone wants. Good DOT 5.1 fluid (don't use DOT 5 it's silicon and will wreck your seals etc) good quality pads, correctly machined rotors - stock cross drilled ones are fine if the thickness is OK and you're not trying to brake the Wakefield lap record, but slotted RDAs will provide better feel - and a good master cyl with a $100 Cusco stopper will allow you to do most things within reason.

Make sure you run mineral oil in your gearbox if it's in good shape, good condition GTR synchros do not generally like synthetic as it interferes with their ability to engage. Controversial subject but talk to the good gearbox builders.

Sorry that's a long post, just some of the things I've picked up in 4 years of ownership. Hope it helps.

Cheers

[Michele]

Sorry that's a long post, just some of the things I've picked up in 4 years of ownership. Hope it helps.

Cheers

Bring on the long posts I appreciate all the feedback/comments I receive and the fact that someone has taken the time to help.

I'll need to re-read much of the advice I have been given and analyse my options.

I had decided against the pods as I had been advised that a hi-flow filter would be every bit as effective (if not better) unless I was prepared to partition/section/box (or was it another word LOL) off the pods to ensure they only sucked in the cooler air, so I picked up a filter from Trojan for $100.

I've pretty much decided to stick with the Nissan brakes after receiving fairly consistant feedback to suggest they are still damn good gear.

I need another opinion on my rear rotors to see how much longer I can expect from them.

I haven't had the GTR on the track yet but don't expect to be able to throw it around the corners the same as I do the GTST. I'm racing this Sunday at the Hillclimb, so will be able to talk about the differences after then. I imagine I will take it pretty steady until I get used to the car. Besides, I'm more concerned about panel damage with the GTR than what I was/am with the GTST, which may have an impact on my times - but I will build that up over time. I haven't bought my Federal tyres yet either, so that will impact my confidence as well.

I need somewhere to test the GTR's braking, but don't know anywhere 'off road' to do this.

[Guest]

Thanks for the tips Scooby, as I am also new owner of R32 GTR, it's helpful to read these comments.

I might come down and watch hillclimb since I live down the road in Qbn.

Depends how my daughter feels, she's got cold.

[Michele]

Thanks for the tips Scooby, as I am also new owner of R32 GTR, it's helpful to read these comments.

I might come down and watch hillclimb since I live down the road in Qbn.

Depends how my daughter feels, she's got cold.

Yeah Scooby et al... keep em coming LOL

If anyone comes down to the Hillclimb on Sunday, come and say "Hi" it would be great to put some names to faces.

I'm a bit nervous with the GTR out there for the first time *shiver* hopefully after my first run I will feel better (and keep it on the track... or better still off the tyre wall).

Cheers

Michele

[CeJay]

I'll try and make it to the hillclimb to have a look. Don't think I'll participate, after my little incident at the skidpan lol. Do spectators still need to park up on the dirt carpark, on the left side of the track, as the other section was for competitors only last time.

If you need to check the gtrs braking, there is a dead end road in symonston and, theres another dead end road off the long stay caravan park in Narrabundah I think. May be able to use those for a quick test.

[GTR32GUS]

The TSC actually doesn't turn the car into a full time 4WD

what it does it basically makes more use of the G-sensors to detect how hard you and turning and you can adjust how much power you want to the front wheels.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...9301&hl=tsc

hopefully it will be useful for you.

These controllers allow you to choose from 10 settings from 100% rear drive to max available front torque.

the way i read that is that u are setting the front torque to a set level all the time , so at the lowest setting no torque goes to the front at the highest setting max torque goes to the front all the time

[OzLeroy]

Champion! Another silver R32 GTR in canberra! Think yours is in slightly better condition than mine, very nice.

Perhaps i'll have to get along to this hillclimb and see you in action.

cheers for the comments scooby its always good to have that experience passed down. My experience of a few months ownership resonates with a few things you're saying 'make sure your wheel alignment (don't laugh, people run huge camber and wonder why the thing tramlines uncontrollably) is on the money' my car has bilstiens, has been lowered significantly with high camber so it tramlines like a bastard.

I also have upgrades in mind (read dreams) once i've payed off some debt......if ever.

My extremely rough numbers so far are:

stage 1 220-250rwkw (nb. Already got Kiakamoto 3+ In cat back)

panel filter (apexi power filter or similar)

boost control (profec or AVCR)

computer (PFC D-jetro)

~1100 (-labor)

stage 3 250-320rwkw

turbo kit (garret 2860-5 x2)

injectors

fuel pump

I/C kit

exhaust bits (dumps, CAT, extrude honed manifold, front pipe)

hoses and accessories

~7500 (-labor)

I don't have the money, not at all but still excited.

Got to get it onto ACT rego first, been putting off that inspection for way too long....

[Michele]

Do spectators still need to park up on the dirt carpark, on the left side of the track, as the other section was for competitors only last time.

I don't think I've parked in the spectators area, so not certain how far away it is, but always thought it was right beside the pit area. Ive drawn on the map below where I thought the spectator parking was, you could probably park at the very south end of the pit area so long as you were out of the way of the competitors. You can walk all through the pit area, its not restricted at all. I have also marked the main viewing area on the map as well.

Its a pretty tight track, but still a lot of fun.

[yaf28f]

These controllers allow you to choose from 10 settings from 100% rear drive to max available front torque.

the way i read that is that u are setting the front torque to a set level all the time , so at the lowest setting no torque goes to the front at the highest setting max torque goes to the front all the time

Sorry I got a different understanding of how it works. Maybe I'm mistaken.

but my idea is like this.

GTR's have 2 g sensors underneather the console near the hand brake.

Normally in a Straight line, If the GTR loses Traction to the rear wheels it sends upto %50 of it's power(depending on transfer case) to the front.

But due to the engineers wanting to make the GTR handle more like a RWD around corners. it uses the G sensors to determine how hard of a corner your turning. The higher the G's the less power it sends to the front wheel there for making it behave more like a RWD.

My understanding is that the TSC changes the signal it sends to think that the car is not doing as much G's there for sending more power to the front to behave more like an AWD. So on level 10 the car would always think it is going straight and send up to %50 power to the front and on a level 1 the car will still snap out if you do a big corner since less power is sent to the front because it senses higher G's and wants to be a RWD.

So when the car is in a Straight line it is still all RWD unless it loses traction and not full time AWD.

Maybe I'm rambling too much and got the wrong idea, but I got one and it works pretty good for me. Mayeb it's time for me to read the whole thread again.

[SilverSlyder]

Congrats on the new purchase LadyBytes. They are are great car to drive. Looks very neat & tidy might be biased but i think silver is the best looking colour on the GTR.

Just get used to the feel of it in stock form for a bit before you go crazy with adding mods, ive found a bit of a difference going from a GTST to a GTR i still handle the car with care even after a year of owning it. Don't want to hear someone on here having had a bad experience or worse. Just the simplest of mods makes the GTR more of a weapon.

Drive safe and enjoy the ride.

[Michele]

Congrats on the new purchase LadyBytes. They are are great car to drive. Looks very neat & tidy might be biased but i think silver is the best looking colour on the GTR.

Just get used to the feel of it in stock form for a bit before you go crazy with adding mods, ive found a bit of a difference going from a GTST to a GTR i still handle the car with care even after a year of owning it. Don't want to hear someone on here having had a bad experience or worse. Just the simplest of mods makes the GTR more of a weapon.

Drive safe and enjoy the ride.

Thanks SilverSlyder, I'm guessing my times tomorrow will be slower in the GTR than the GTST until I get used to the new girl (I'm running both tomorrow) I need to spend some time somewhere like Wakefield to get used to her.

I wasn't sure about the silver, I thought I wanted gunmetal, but now I have this one I'm totally converted LOL

[widebody32]

Congrats on the purchase.

As for the brakes you can run a 324 mm disc on the front with the standard sumitomo callipers, all you need to buy is the adaptor from UAS for around $170 and the last set of discs i bought in dba were $400 the pair.

As for injectors you can buy 1000cc for 110 an injector from Rocket industries so i think $1700 is a bit dear for anything smaller.

As for turbos you can buy the 2530's or t517's for around $4000 and they are a much better suited turbo as have had a lot of development done for the gtr.

As for the 2200 to fit them it seems very steep but just make sure that this doesn't include upgrading the other systems needed to run bigger turbo's Eg fuel pump,injectors,computer,oil and coolant lines and tune. Which if it does then go for it.

Good luck with it all

[a20089]

As for turbos you can buy the 2530's or t517's for around $4000 and they are a much better suited turbo as have had a lot of development done for the gtr

As for the 2200 to fit them it seems very steep but just make sure that this doesn't include upgrading the other systems needed to run bigger turbo's Eg fuel pump,injectors,computer,oil and coolant lines and tune. Which if it does then go for it.

I could not find any 2530's, most people said they were no longer made. Didn't even consider t517's never heard of them. Yep fitting prices from $1200 to $2500 for me with most around $1500.

Duncan’s controllers allow you to choose from 10 settings from 100% rear drive to max available front torque, that is all his thread claims. There is another controller on the forums from a guy in QLD for $600 that allows you instantly control of how much power is going to the front on cornering. That is probably my next purchase. If you are willing to wait I’ll review it.

Hey OzLeroy, why the D-Jetro? I’ve been informed by serval sources that the D-Jetro version of the PFC is designed for single throttle bodied engines only. It will work fine, but the tuning will probably never be perfectly smooth.

Great post Scooby, I’d probably go for the Garrett 2860R-5 as a turbo choice over the 2860R-7 or GTSS as I’ve just put the -5's in. They seem to boost up exactly like the original turbo’s but make much more power. I’m only pumping out 265kw with current settings but they are very capable of doing 100kw more. In saying that, 300kw limit with the HKS GTSS and possibly a quicker spool up time is still great, I just could not see the proof of the lower spool up times in the turbo upgrade thread.