Jump to content
SAU Community

1990 R32, Push Or Pull Clutch?


Recommended Posts

I have a R32 GTR and the stock clutch is slipping very badly, so its time for me to change my clutch. I was told that 32 GTRs change from push to pull clutches half way through.. i was also told that it depends on which month the car was made and not which year. Is there somewhere on my car that i can check the date it was made? i can only seem to find the year it was made.. or can i somehow check if it is a push or pull clutch without taking it to the mechanics? thanks for any replies

Link to comment
Share on other sites

man that diagram is way off. no car has a solid line going all the way from pedal to slave. for starters the pedal actuates a ROD which goes into the MASTER. then a line (usually starting solid) goes down to near the slave, then a rubber hose goes the last little bit to the slave. NO GTR has a clutch cable. They are all hydraulic clutches.

Basically you need to stick your head under the drivers side of the clutch and take a look at which way the slave is going. ie is it pushing on the fork from the back, or from the front.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

?

The operation of a push or pull clutch system outside of the bellhousing is identical. Compression of fluid at the master, pushes the slave cylinder out of its housing.

It is the direction of effort on the clutch fork that is the difference between push and pull.

Push, the slave cylinder is foreward of the clutch fork, pushes it backwards, inside the bellhousing the clutch fork PUSHES on the clutch to operate.

Pull, the slave cyinder is rearward of the clutch fork, pushes it foreward, inside the bellhousing the clutch fork (which is mechanically connected to the clutch ) PULLS the clutch assembly to operate.

Simplest way to check is: If the slave is foreward of the clutch fork, it is push, if it is rearward of the clutch fork, it is pull.

Zennon.. get rid of that confusing incorrect information.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pull, the slave cyinder is rearward of the clutch fork, pushes it foreward, inside the bellhousing the clutch fork (which is mechanically connected to the clutch ) PULLS the clutch assembly to operate.

Simplest way to check is: If the slave is foreward of the clutch fork, it is push, if it is rearward of the clutch fork, it is pull.

nice to know somone agrees with me. :) and can explain it even better!

yes zennon I have no idea what cars you have been looking at mate, but no pedal is pulling on the master cylinder... and none have a pedal connected to the master cylinder by a cable. like I said above, the easiest way to tell is check which side your slave is on in relation to the clutch fork. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol, there is no cable!! :)

ok, in a pull clutch the slave is on the other side of the clutch fork. but it still pushes on the fork, the fork is now doing pulling, instead of pushing. :( push clutch and pull clutch have completely different diaphragms. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im back ~ lol ok i sort of get the idea, just need a better picture or an explantion to zennons pic lol the pic kinda confuses me more hahaha damn >.< can u draw in clutch pedal in the pic too? so i can see where all this is relative to the pedal? and wat does the slave cylinder look like o_O real new at this, as u can tell lol =.="

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get on the ground and look at your gearbox, drivers side..

Should see something along the lines of this:

post-16250-1185365158_thumb.jpg

almost the same anyways.. generic pic.

red circle shows the slave cylinder. that is in front of the clutch fork pushing back, this is a push type clutch.

if your slave cylinder is in the yellow circle, pushing forward, it is a pull type clutch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

slave looks like this - you cant miss it - its bolted to the gearbox with two bolts:

r698965361mzy.jpg

and you cant miss clutch fork either - it looks like a leaver sticking out of the gearbox

here is a pic of my slave on my RB20DET when it was leaking:

post-31383-1185402939_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Matt, Link pointed to the 2x IGN power sources from the car as a likely issue, and sure enough pin 31 in the loom does not have power when IGN is on (24 does). So at the ECU, (and this is probably the case for R32 as well as C34) most of the ECU loom goes through the firewall behind the blower motor and there are 2 plugs (of 3 in the junction box) which go up and under the dash, the third plug heads under the carpet to places unknown (likely a body to dash loom joint) So, I started to follow that problem through yesterday. Like Johnny (and R32) I assumed that power was supplied through the 2 connectors near the left headlight so I spent some time pulling the intake etc off and cleaning of 400,000klm of dirt and oil leaks and checking those pins, but there was nothing related to the engine parts or ignition fuses there (and no purple with white trace wire in either side of the connectors) Given that the wire didn't seem to go via the engine bay, I then checked there is continuity from Pin 31 to the second connector to confirm no wiring issue in the ECU loom (it looked likely, given how much that has been hacked up over the years!). The pin marked with the purple dot is the other end of the wire to Pin 31 Then I check for IGN power in the dash loom side of that connector with the key on. Nothing. Given that loom goes up and underneath the top of the dash there is no tracing it without taking the dash out, so I went to the driver's side to see if I can find the other end of that (I'm expecting to get to big body junction boxes after I pull enough apart). However, to get to those functions, I had to pull the covers off the drivers side, I'm pretty sure the problem is in this pic Yep, factory remote start (bottom right), local immobiliser (middle) surrounded by 20 years of butchery. Plan is to totally remove the remote start and immobiliser (I think I will lose remote central locking temporarily as a result) to remove all the suspect stuff given I have other more modern security in the car It's gonna take a while, and it is both cold and uncomfortable out in the shed, not looking forward to it.
    • Hey team,  The clutch on my newly bought 25 swapped r32 feels average and sticks half way. Went to go order a new clutch master but it does not look like the ones that suit the one that’s in the car…    does anyone know what clutch master is this just by looking ?  (The feed is on the side rather than the bottom like the ones the pop up online)  thanks guys new to the RB scene so any help is appreciated cheers !!
    • Id be more than happy to sign up!!! Where do I send the invoices for my fuel usage? I'm happy to provide the mower, oil, and the labour to abuse the motor, just a little help on fuel would be great...   I had tipped the container of oil out into my big "drip tray" and left the small container upside down to drain the oil out of itself overnight. PIcked the container up today, and it has a layer of what feels like either dirt, or shit tonnes of carbon in the bottom of the container. I'm leaning towards it likely being dust, as I doubt the quality of the Sunli BumbleBee having a decent air filter on it, and sections of my yard produce a dust storm, especially because of the high lift blade!   So, filled her up with some fresh Nulon. Seemed to run fine, but it seems to want to run at really high RPM (higher than normal) even with the governor spring slacked off after fire up to try reduce it. If I back the throttle off it a bit to drop the rpm to where I'd like it to be when mowing light grass, it starts to blow a bit of smoke out the exhaust. Opening the throttle back up clears that out. It's definitely breathing oil, as I put my hand down at the breather hose and it's spitting some oil.   My guess is it having been running at high rpm, oil never changed, and it eating dust has destroyed the rings. You know what that means? Time to send it!!!
    • That is what will seal with the bonnet closed. Follow it down while closing the bonnet to see where it ends up with the bonnet closed. The panels don't do anything other than spending money, which this one will do just fine. :p
    • Nah just send me a photo or a drawing and I'll tell you which is better.  It's a new SAU service.
×
×
  • Create New...