To Shim Or Not To Shit

[DjeMz]

hey all

i have a dilemma

i have a kaaz 1.5lsd that isnt locking anymore... ppl tell me all i need to do is change the oil (hasnt been changed since the car came to oz) n it should lock again, but i think i want a 2way..

now unless someone wants to directly swap me a 1.5 for a 2 way id be more then happy to.

i dont care about tire wear, noise, clunks ect, i just want 50/50 lock

do i shim it to make it really tight?

or do i weld it for good.

only reason why i dont wanna weld it is that im running 240rwkw n dont wanna be breaking driveshafts.. i have a rb25 box, that should be fine with 240 + weld right??

cheers!

[sh@un]

what are you using it for?

you won't break driveshafts with it boc-locked, but you will have to be on your game in the wet

and of course, it'll be illegal for street use

[DjeMz]

to be used for dori

[DjeMz]

whats boc-locked?

[turboedsloth]

boc-lock is welded. just pull it out and get the thing rebuilt. or as u mentioned try an swap it with someone. dont weld it but it would be a waste of a good diff

[sh@un]

welded is perfect for drift

friend of mine competes in the Toyo DA series with a welded diff

[turboedsloth]

but did he weld a kaaz 1.5 way?

[DjeMz]

yeh i wont be welding this diff, probably swap + cash adjust for a stock diff and ill get it welded or something..

dunno, dont really want a 1.5 on track

[Cain]

why not, i found a 1.5way really easy to change the angles when drifting.

and look at getting it rebuilt, it really does make a huge different..

also change the oil asap.

[sh@un]

  turboedsloth said:

but did he weld a kaaz 1.5 way?

no

but it's stuffed anyway yeah?

[Trust33]

  Sh@un said:

no

but it's stuffed anyway yeah?

all it would need is a reco and the diff will be like new again.weld that.sorry to say,is plain stupid.

if your going to weld a diff do it to a rat shit stocker.

[sh@un]

  DjeMz said:

only reason why i dont wanna weld it is that im running 240rwkw n dont wanna be breaking driveshafts.. i have a rb25 box, that should be fine with 240 + weld right??

cheers!

  Sh@un said:

what are you using it for?

you won't break driveshafts with it boc-locked, but you will have to be on your game in the wet

and of course, it'll be illegal for street use

the rest of this thread has been pointless

[DjeMz]

im going to change oil soon, see if that fixes things..

if not, how much am i looking at when it comes to rebuilding? or can i just shim it?

[Kinks]

shimming it is a povo way of increasing the pre-load.

if it's a drift car, minispool. had one in the R31 and it loved being sideways.

if it's a street car, get the 1.5 way sorted. locked diffs are illegal and dangerous in the wet, and they compromise the handling badly unless you ARE sideways.

[DjeMz]

Well i went off and bought a whole new diff which is locked, that solves my 1.5 problem, if the locker shits me, i will sell the locker n rebuild the 1.5 i guesss

how is a locker so dangerous? are we talkin that it just make u spin heaps easy?

when will i have handeling problems? at high speed? or just around a corner?

[Thunderbolt]

Thing with lockers is that it effectively isn't a diff at all. The inside rear wheel will always rotate at the same speed as the outside.

To the in-experienced, it will understeer a lot and you need to use aggression at all times to get it to turn a corner. This is why it can be dangerous. Once you are used to it, I am sure that you will be fine.

Edited August 10, 2007 by Thunderbolt

[GTS-t VSPEC]

  DjeMz said:

do i shim it to make it really tight?

or do i weld it for good.

only reason why i dont wanna weld it is that im running 240rwkw n dont wanna be breaking driveshafts.. i have a rb25 box, that should be fine with 240 + weld right??

I currently have a welded diff, making 400+rwkw, and all I can say is it's hell nasty on the street, but bareable on the track/strip.

I'm in the process of getting a shimmed GTR diff put in so it's not such a pig on the street.

[DjeMz]

I installed the diff today

just got back from a 4 hour mountain run, there was a tad bit of understeer but only when speeds were under say 40km and we went around a fairly sharp bend... nothing dangerous at all, understeer (caused by the diff) wasnt noticeable at high speeds

my front tyres were causing more understeer then anything

in the car park the inside tyre just spins, no clunks, no ugly noises nothing, im actually pleased with the way the diff is behaving. its far better when other lockers + mini spools i have been in

straight line traction (take off, + i used to have wheelspin in 3rd) has increased so much i cant believe it.

overall result

big smile on my face

Edited August 10, 2007 by DjeMz

[cosworth1971]

  DjeMz said:

I installed the diff today

just got back from a 4 hour mountain run, there was a tad bit of understeer but only when speeds were under say 40km and we went around a fairly sharp bend... nothing dangerous at all, understeer (caused by the diff) wasnt noticeable at high speeds

my front tyres were causing more understeer then anything

in the car park the inside tyre just spins, no clunks, no ugly noises nothing, im actually pleased with the way the diff is behaving. its far better when other lockers + mini spools i have been in

straight line traction (take off, + i used to have wheelspin in 3rd) has increased so much i cant believe it.

overall result

big smile on my face

people wont tell you but a locked diff will give u bad understeer so much so u wont have the adjustment of castor in the front end to fix it.locked if u want to drive sideways 90% of the time otherwize ur just making huge wear on axles,tyres and drive line.I use a locker in my rally car but thats a rally car