Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bought a skyline recently( off my old man )

its pretty much stock with only a catback ex, pod, microtech ECU. being tax time i am looking at changing that a bit.

currently got a T03 turbo from a VL in the shed and was think of getting it highflowed and putting on the liner also with the addition of a FMIC, front pipe, highflow cat and fuel pump.

my question is, many people here ventured out there and used one on there skyline? how do they perform?

cheers mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178005-garret-t34-highflows/
Share on other sites

DO NOT put a VL turbo onto your skyline. For a few reasons.

1: they are bush bearing and a old design

2: you need to mod the oil lines

3: you need to make a custom dump pipe because the wastegate flap is on the dump pipe and its a major pain in the ass

4: it will be laggier and will not make hardly anymore power then a stock turbo

The reason why i know this ? is because i have put one on my r33 before. Biggest piece of shit turbo you can get for a r33. Sure if your putting one on a old datsun or something but seriously if you have a skyline by the time you have finished the job you have spend more then the cost of a new GCG turbo and will have less power.

You have been warned =)

Edited by Guilt-Toy

t3/t4 turbos are not a bad thing. Just like rb25 highflow turbos, if you get a good one if you get a good one, they're awesome. If you get a shit one, they're shit.

Send GT-Shortie a pm about the r3/t4 turbos. He had one on his car until he had a stronger motor built - wanted more power etc.

His t3/t4 is for sale. Had better response than the rb25 highflow and made great power. It's in almost brand new condition too.

Edit: Forgot to mention, if you get a good one (like his), it is striaght bolt on - comes with evertyhing you need.

Edited by MANWHORE

What engine is this going on, RB30 or twin cam RB20/25 engine?

If its an RB30 R31 as your avatar depics, then the t3/t4 is the logical choice as its straight bolton.

If its got a RB20/25 conversion then get a RB20/25 turbo high flowed as it will go straight on and have the advantage of ball bearing response if you build it back to that spec.

Bluey1 the cop VL, ran 10's on a t3/t4 highflow, was power ported but retained stock turbine and compressor housings, it was done by ATS. (Was stripped and ran race fuel of course)

At the end of the day, highflows are kind of old school and the Garrett GT series turbos really do offer good value and performance for their money. So you need to think what the long term goal is, to save spending twice.

as stated in my first post, it is going on my new R33, basically the only reason i was looking at highflowing the the t3 is because i have one, sitting in the shed doin sweet FA and read in the RB25 mod thread about a bloke doin 250 odd kw on pretty low boost with one. At the end of the day my goal is too see between 250-270rwkw safely with the auto.

By what i have read, these figures arent all that hard to acheive with a 25 and also with the auto, with a few supportive peices of hardware. Generally as i am only a young bloke i am not made of millions and the cheapest way is the best way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...