Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, i was wondering if the position of the bov makes a difference in performance or running of the vehicle... i currently have an apexi twin chamber bov (on crossover) and was going to replace it with a turbosmart supersonic (without adaptor for crossover) which has a weld on piece.

how well do they operate (performance wise)?

would it work best if i had an adaptor?

will it make a difference if its on the intercooler piping?

how much boost should i run for maximum sound potential?

maybe a more recommended type of bov....

how well does your current bov operate, and where it is located?

any info will help me and hopefully help others on this issue...

cheers

location can make a small difference to response. you want it as close to the throttle body as possible. this makes it so that when you lift off all the air keeps going in the direction it already was. only the air from the throttle body to the bov has to turn around. if it is close to the turbo then when you lift off all that air after it has to go in the opposite direction it was and then when you step on the gas again it has to change directions again.

also by having it after the intercooler, if you step on the gas before all the air has been released you have nice cold air ready and waiting to go into the motor.

which is another reason why recirculating bovs are good. all that nice cold air gets directed back into the intake, so you have nice cold air going into the turbo.

i had stock one on and was running 15psi, had bleed hole blocked inside it, not sure on wat psi its rated to but worked fine, only reason ichanged it is now im running hi mount 35/40 and stock crossover pipe doesnt fit so we had to make our own pipe so bought new one...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...