Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is anyone on here running these?

I'm currently looking at upgrading as per this post:

http://www.nissansilvia.co.nz/OldWebsite/t...0Binjectors.htm (site off line atm)

And they point out there are a couple of issues with the collers, which are easily overcome.

but just wondering who has used these, and what there thoughts and feelings are on them. Seems to be a good cheap upgrade. Any extra info would be appreciated aswell.

Cheers Guys!

um i was going to do this the hardest thing was trying to find a good cheap set, you also need to change the injector plugs, and rx7 injectors dont have the best spray pattern they just dump fuel. But see how you go.

In terms of fuel spray pattern, the rotory injectors essentially just squirt the fuel in a line.

Speak to red drifter after tuning issues associated with running 13b injectors.

There was a thread a while back about modifying the tip of the stock injectors - removing the tip (forgot the technical term - too tired). It will give you a similar outcome, without the troubles of chopping and changing plugs etc

I run them, they work. Same as blitz 550 injectors if anyone is interested.

You need to trim a lip off the bottom screen and swap the plugs to a standard denso type. You need collars the same as sards. Because the bottom o ring sits low on the injector you need to be very careful installing them in the rail so that you dont pinch it (use petroleum jelly).

Otherwise, they are fine.

Another option you could look at is getting high flows from deatschwerks. Last set of 13b injectors I saw were around $300 or so if I remember properly, whereas deatschwerks only charge around $600 (cant remember exactly how much I paid as it was quite some time ago) and then when you receive their injectors, you send your old stock ones back to them and they give you a rebate. Unless the 13b injectors have been ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested I would go the deatschwerks as the extra pieces + messing around involved in the 13bs, combined with the fact you are getting an old injector that you will have to get cleaned and tested (well not have to, but I would advise it) amounts to a higher cost, higher risk and more effort which IMO isn’t worth the $200 or so you will end up saving (depending on what must be done, purchase price etc). Some people don’t like high flows, but I’ve used them on 3 cars and they have all performed beautifully and drop straight in.

i can get 3 20b injectors for 150, 6 for 300-350, so quite cheap but yes have to get collars and plugs need trim...

am now looking at different alternatives. 98 Legacy twin turbo injectors fit, just need to use an extra O-ring, think they are about 440cc, there is a guy over here using them and getting 300rwkw. I'm also trying to find S15 Spec R (manual) injectors which are 480cc and bolt straight in. but they are hard as crap to get!

Is there anyone else out there using anything interesting as a cheap upgrade? Share....

They are Denso injectors. Spray pattern is actually very good when they are clean. I was previously running S5 550's in my 26/30. You can obtain the injector plugs off most toyota corolla's. As far as fitting in the rail goes, they do fit but the O rings are not interchangeable from your 20/26 injectors, the 20/26's run a slightly fatter O ring which will actually get the rx7 injector stuck in the rail if you use them despite that fact that you can get them on there.

There also hi imp so remove the resistor pack if going into a GTR, and lastly make sure you have them cleaned and flow tested before fitting. Its not uncommon to get maybe 2-3 in a complete set that are seized.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...