Air-con ( Heat)

[Jax]

Can anyone tell me if the 'heating' on the Air-Con R32 "climate control" whatever is Reverse Cycle air-con, or the old style hot water radiator ?. Can't get hot or warm air. Not very cold in summer, either. Still on old refrige gas.

[Cubes]

Perform a sensor check; I've seen a few with bung sensors that work occasionally but most often not.

If the car has been owned by a smoker it absolutely clags the crap out of the a/c condensor. Mine was not cleanable so I bought another.

Interestingly both refrig temps and air outlet temps dropped considerably. I now often see from -1 to 2 degree refrig and air outlet temps since the core has been cleaned. Prior it would hang around the 4 to 8degree's.

With R134A I was only able to achieve at best 8-10degree airoutlet temps; since I dropped R12A in to it temps have dropped considerably, I can't feel the a/c sapping power out of the motor and the a/c compressor when reving up around 4000rpm is now silent.

[adam-__-]

Check to see what's wrong with your heating system by trying this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...814&hl=cold

From my experience, my heater didn't work because of the motor which controls the hot/cold valve was stuffed (mine wasn't stuffed it just wasn't getting power). Do the diagnosis to see what's wrong and we'll try and help you out from there.

[Jax]

Perform a sensor check; I've seen a few with bung sensors that work occasionally but most often not.

If the car has been owned by a smoker it absolutely clags the crap out of the a/c condensor. Mine was not cleanable so I bought another.

Interestingly both refrig temps and air outlet temps dropped considerably. I now often see from -1 to 2 degree refrig and air outlet temps since the core has been cleaned. Prior it would hang around the 4 to 8degree's.

With R134A I was only able to achieve at best 8-10degree airoutlet temps; since I dropped R12A in to it temps have dropped considerably, I can't feel the a/c sapping power out of the motor and the a/c compressor when reving up around 4000rpm is now silent.

[Jax]

Perform a sensor check; I've seen a few with bung sensors that work occasionally but most often not.

If the car has been owned by a smoker it absolutely clags the crap out of the a/c condensor. Mine was not cleanable so I bought another.

Interestingly both refrig temps and air outlet temps dropped considerably. I now often see from -1 to 2 degree refrig and air outlet temps since the core has been cleaned. Prior it would hang around the 4 to 8degree's.

With R134A I was only able to achieve at best 8-10degree airoutlet temps; since I dropped R12A in to it temps have dropped considerably, I can't feel the a/c sapping power out of the motor and the a/c compressor when reving up around 4000rpm is now silent.

Thanks, Will do the tests tomorrow. Already have heat working. Had'nt been used for years (live on north coast) Ballina, so, I had engine running and warmed up, and kept changing settings ( temp, mode, manual, auto, etc. Suddenly it worked. All through last summer could only get slightly cool air, so will follow instructions tomorrow. Thanks for help so far, will get back if need more guidance.

[Jax]

Check to see what's wrong with your heating system by trying this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...814&hl=cold

From my experience, my heater didn't work because of the motor which controls the hot/cold valve was stuffed (mine wasn't stuffed it just wasn't getting power). Do the diagnosis to see what's wrong and we'll try and help you out from there.

Thanks. Got that info from that site ( see above )Try diagnostics tomorrow.

Edited July 26, 2007 by Jax

[Jax]

Check to see what's wrong with your heating system by trying this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...814&hl=cold

From my experience, my heater didn't work because of the motor which controls the hot/cold valve was stuffed (mine wasn't stuffed it just wasn't getting power). Do the diagnosis to see what's wrong and we'll try and help you out from there.

Have done the diagnosis. 25 flashes. Am told this is 'Sunload Sensor' What does it do ? Is it important ?,

Everything else checks out OK. I actually took temperature readings Outside, Inside, and at outside intake grill. They were Outside - 26, Inside- 28, Intake - 26.. The indicated temps were 25, 30, 26, and Refrigerant 23.5.

I take it these are within acceptable range?

Still the temp wont drop when on cold. Compressor cuts in and remains so. Must be refrigerant ?.

This still has old refrigerant. Supposing nothing else is wrong, anyone got any idea about how much it should cost to recharge system with new refrigerant?

Found something interesting while I was "playing " with this diagnostic test. If you hold down the 'cold' arrow, after it indicates lowest temp (18), then it goes onto 'manual' and indicates FC. Same with 'hot' arrow. Reads FH. Must mean Full Cold and Full Heat ?. Do you think it takes all sensors out of the circuit??

[Cubes]

All look fine.

The FC doesn't completely ignore the sensor values as when my airoutlet sensor was bung the a/c still didn't work.

Occasionally my heater won't go hot; so I hit the FH and it goes hot. I'm assuming my problem is a dry solder in the control unit some where. Regardless what ever the FH does it makes the heater work.

[adam-__-]

Jax, you say that your heater isn't blowing hot, get the FH to appear and if still doesn't blow warm/hot, it'll be something to do with your door which controls the hot/cold.

I remember doing the diagnosis on my car when the heater didn't work and it showed that nothing was wrong. I did the holding down the hot botton and still no warm air. I soon realised that it was something to do with the motor which controls the hot/cold door. It's all fixed now thanks to a SauVic member

[foznice]

I think his problem is he can't control the temp. Like the blend door actuator is stuck on the 'hot side'. Try and take the airconditioning out of the equation just for the moment. Turn it off, and then press 'mode' to select your mode, and then turn the fan on so that it's running without the AC.

Then, when the cars warm have a play with the temp control, go from 32 to 18 and see what happens. Its the middle of winter, so the blend door will just switch from pure outside air, to heating the outside air (leave the re circ button off).

How old is the refrigerent? If it has any at all?

[Jax]

I think his problem is he can't control the temp. Like the blend door actuator is stuck on the 'hot side'. Try and take the airconditioning out of the equation just for the moment. Turn it off, and then press 'mode' to select your mode, and then turn the fan on so that it's running without the AC.

Then, when the cars warm have a play with the temp control, go from 32 to 18 and see what happens. Its the middle of winter, so the blend door will just switch from pure outside air, to heating the outside air (leave the re circ button off).

How old is the refrigerent? If it has any at all?

Thanks all. Got the heat going OK. COLD a different matter. All actuators and doors, etc. seem allright. Think probably refrigerant - everything else seems to check out. Probably the original refrig. Can't recharge with "old" Gas. Does anyone know what's involved with changeover to new gas? And about how much to do it? Provided everything else OK.

[Cubes]

Thats right you can no longer recharge with 12 gas BUT you can recharge with R12A.

The R12A is much better suited to the skylines aircon system; it runs a similiar head pressure to that of the R12 gas so it doesn't place excess strain on your hoses and aircon compressor as the R134A does.

The R12A gas is more efficient than R134A + its also less damaging to the ozone layer.

R12A FTW.

Due to the R12A's nature of being highly flamable in large quanties only selected aircon places have the license to deal with the stuff.

The amount of gas within our aircon systems doesn't pose a danger.

Why is R12A not standard for new cars? Political bullcrap thats why.

I've ran both R134A and R12A gas and the R12A gas is 1000 times better.

Why R12A is better from what I've experienced.

1. Aircon is noticably colder

2. Aircon no longer cuts out sitting in traffic

3. No more noisy aircon compressor with 3000rpm+ on board

4. No more huge power sap when the compressor kicks in; R12A I can't feel when its running.

5. Much easier on the hoses due to half the head pressure ~170psi vs 300+psi from memory.

So if you go asking for it remember to ask for R12A. The workshops that don't deal with it will most likely spin some crap about it because they don't have the license to deal it and want your business.

R12A FTW.

[Jax]

Thats right you can no longer recharge with 12 gas BUT you can recharge with R12A.

Thanks, I'll check out the locals, and see what I can find.

[foznice]

So is it blowing HOT air all the time? EVEN if you had no gas at all in your system, and the compressor was shagged, you should at least be getting ambient temperatures. If not, then theres still something wrong with your blend door or electronics.

And yeah R12A FTW, although I'm using r134a with good results, If I'd have known of R12 at the time I would have walked that path for sure .

[Jax]

So is it blowing HOT air all the time? EVEN if you had no gas at all in your system, and the compressor was shagged, you should at least be getting ambient temperatures. If not, then theres still something wrong with your blend door or electronics.

And yeah R12A FTW, although I'm using r134a with good results, If I'd have known of R12 at the time I would have walked that path for sure .

No, not blowing hot air. Blowing ambient, or Maybe?? a little cooler than ambient. Think it almost certainly is the gas. If I can find some of that R12A, we'll soon see.

[foznice]

ok, so you can go from hot air to ambient? If thats the case I'd go regass for sure

[Jax]

R 12 A Gas been a bit of a problem, but worth it I think. Originally NO Air- Con people in the whole area that I could find, even knew there was more than one gas. I live in Northern NSW.Byron Bay / Ballina / Lismore etc. Went back on net and found I was in a forum on Porsche site. Same discussion re re-gassing from 'old' 12 gas. They were talking about same probs / advantages with R134 A V/S R12A. Found that R12A is also called HR 12, Manufactured in Melbourne by HyChill. hychill.com.au They have good website Found local suppliers, who gave me name of Auto Lec, who they supply, in a small town not far away. Went to see him. He uses both R134A and HR12, and confirms all the advantages of using the HR12, on older systems, as spelt out by Cubes. Real good info. Now I need to find a "Discharge Pipe" 'cause that's where the leak is.

Edited July 30, 2007 by Jax

[rad100]

im having the problem on my aircon not going cold!!! set on the lowwest temp it pushes out the same heat as it does on highest temp!! is this coz i hav a front mount and restricting the air to the radiator or does it need a re-gas?? cheers

[Jax]

im having the problem on my aircon not going cold!!! set on the lowwest temp it pushes out the same heat as it does on highest temp!! is this coz i hav a front mount and restricting the air to the radiator or does it need a re-gas?? cheers

Probably gas, BUT do the diagnostics See adams post above. Easy to do, and will help to narrow things down.

Edited July 30, 2007 by Jax