Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbosmart Bov

4drftn

By 4drftn,
in Forced Induction Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted
rich spikes, like excessive revs or something? please explain....

Na like when the bov vents, excess un burn't fuel will be dumped into the exhaust causing a backfire type sound. Not overly loud - also doesn't happen all the time either, mine doesn't really do it much at all, the turbosmart ones are good because you can tighten them up to increase the spring rate - hardening the piston in the bov to stop your car from stalling. If the bov is too loose i.e venting too much and or under idle it will cause you car to stall. If you are interested in the sound etc of a blow off valve then a pod filter will give you a simular sound just using the stock bov.

Basically set up right and you shouldn't have too many issues, but it may just cause your car to have those 'rich' as in rich fuel mixtures when the bov vents. nothing really to worry about. Try your bov and try adjusting the spring rate by turning the head of it, it should be fine, but if its causing you issues just wak the stock one back on and use a pod filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
4drftn Experienced

4drftn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have a hks pod filter at the moment... might have been better if i stated that i also have 550cc injectors, bigger turbo, fmic, walbro fuel pump, dump pipe into stainless 3 inch, microtech ecu ect.

it has an apexi (twin chamber) bov on the crossover piping at the moment but its not in use, it has the hoses of it but making the flutter sound it must be actulator, is that what is happening by the sound of things???

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like your current bov is not working at all. If it were a working plambback you would get no flutter ans just a kinda cough out the pod filter. If your apexi was a workgin atmo you should get the flutter under lighter load conditions but then its venting sound at higher load. Does your current bov make any noise?

If it doesn't it may just be not a strong enough vacuum line going to the top of it. Sometimes if the vac line going to the bov has a tee piece in it and a hose going somewhere else as well, then it doesn't function properly becuase it fails to reconginise the change in manifold pressure.

Edited by R33silverS2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
4drftn Experienced

4drftn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no, no sound comes out of the blow off valve at all, and yes it has a t piece, it should be to much of a change in pressure as the line has been kinked with a cable tie around it, blocking the boost controller, as my boost controller has been disabled. would it be an idea to totally remove t peice and hose to my boost controller?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted
no, no sound comes out of the blow off valve at all, and yes it has a t piece, it should be to much of a change in pressure as the line has been kinked with a cable tie around it, blocking the boost controller, as my boost controller has been disabled. would it be an idea to totally remove t peice and hose to my boost controller?

Not totally sure how your setup is but, if the bov you currently have is in the stock position (just before the throttle body on the cross over pipe) It should have a single vac line running from the top of the bov and onto a the manifold (after the throttle body). Why is there a tee in the hose connecting to the top of the bov and where is it running to? I tee'd into it once before and the bov stopped working. So it needs to be a single line from the bov to the maniforld.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted

the tee piece near your air box etc won't have anything to do with the operation of the bov. Problem is i cant really see from that pic of the bov, where one of the red vac lines runs too.. the one furthest up the top looks like its running under the bov or is it connected to it as well? Where is that hose connected or does the bov have two hoses coming off it? A pic from the top rather than the side would be easier to see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
4drftn Experienced

4drftn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
that looks like it should work. i'd say the piston is probably siezed in it.

oh ok, then maybe the bov is stuffed ir no good, because looking at the bov there is no tension screw on the top... arent the apexi twin chamber bov supposed to have the tension screw? if it is seized up is it possible to fix it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Hey Matt, Link pointed to the 2x IGN power sources from the car as a likely issue, and sure enough pin 31 in the loom does not have power when IGN is on (24 does). So at the ECU, (and this is probably the case for R32 as well as C34) most of the ECU loom goes through the firewall behind the blower motor and there are 2 plugs (of 3 in the junction box) which go up and under the dash, the third plug heads under the carpet to places unknown (likely a body to dash loom joint) So, I started to follow that problem through yesterday. Like Johnny (and R32) I assumed that power was supplied through the 2 connectors near the left headlight so I spent some time pulling the intake etc off and cleaning of 400,000klm of dirt and oil leaks and checking those pins, but there was nothing related to the engine parts or ignition fuses there (and no purple with white trace wire in either side of the connectors) Given that the wire didn't seem to go via the engine bay, I then checked there is continuity from Pin 31 to the second connector to confirm no wiring issue in the ECU loom (it looked likely, given how much that has been hacked up over the years!). The pin marked with the purple dot is the other end of the wire to Pin 31 Then I check for IGN power in the dash loom side of that connector with the key on. Nothing. Given that loom goes up and underneath the top of the dash there is no tracing it without taking the dash out, so I went to the driver's side to see if I can find the other end of that (I'm expecting to get to big body junction boxes after I pull enough apart). However, to get to those functions, I had to pull the covers off the drivers side, I'm pretty sure the problem is in this pic Yep, factory remote start (bottom right), local immobiliser (middle) surrounded by 20 years of butchery. Plan is to totally remove the remote start and immobiliser (I think I will lose remote central locking temporarily as a result) to remove all the suspect stuff given I have other more modern security in the car It's gonna take a while, and it is both cold and uncomfortable out in the shed, not looking forward to it.
    • BASHERnissan
      R32 clutch master cylinder

      By BASHERnissan · Posted

      Hey team,  The clutch on my newly bought 25 swapped r32 feels average and sticks half way. Went to go order a new clutch master but it does not look like the ones that suit the one that’s in the car…    does anyone know what clutch master is this just by looking ?  (The feed is on the side rather than the bottom like the ones the pop up online)  thanks guys new to the RB scene so any help is appreciated cheers !!
    • MBS206
      Synthetic oil versus conventional oil

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Id be more than happy to sign up!!! Where do I send the invoices for my fuel usage? I'm happy to provide the mower, oil, and the labour to abuse the motor, just a little help on fuel would be great...   I had tipped the container of oil out into my big "drip tray" and left the small container upside down to drain the oil out of itself overnight. PIcked the container up today, and it has a layer of what feels like either dirt, or shit tonnes of carbon in the bottom of the container. I'm leaning towards it likely being dust, as I doubt the quality of the Sunli BumbleBee having a decent air filter on it, and sections of my yard produce a dust storm, especially because of the high lift blade!   So, filled her up with some fresh Nulon. Seemed to run fine, but it seems to want to run at really high RPM (higher than normal) even with the governor spring slacked off after fire up to try reduce it. If I back the throttle off it a bit to drop the rpm to where I'd like it to be when mowing light grass, it starts to blow a bit of smoke out the exhaust. Opening the throttle back up clears that out. It's definitely breathing oil, as I put my hand down at the breather hose and it's spitting some oil.   My guess is it having been running at high rpm, oil never changed, and it eating dust has destroyed the rings. You know what that means? Time to send it!!!
    • Kinkstaah
      Feedback on Carbonetics: R34 GTT cooling panel

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      That is what will seal with the bonnet closed. Follow it down while closing the bonnet to see where it ends up with the bonnet closed. The panels don't do anything other than spending money, which this one will do just fine. :p
    • PranK
      Synthetic oil versus conventional oil

      By PranK · Posted

      Nah just send me a photo or a drawing and I'll tell you which is better.  It's a new SAU service.
×
×
  • Create New...