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The point of all that for me was to get to the PDM (yes, v37 is as fancy as a haltech) which is between the battery and the front inner guard. In there, pins 80 and 81 on connector E125 are for hi beam according to the USDM manuals. I chose to intercept the high beam signal there as it is next to the battery and firewall so it is a good place to mount the fuse/relay for the LEDs. Unfortunately because you can't access the PDM with the battery in the car, it is difficult to test those wires are correct. The fuses for Left and Right high beam are marked on the PDM cover, so I checked continuity from the fuses to those pins with a multimeter, and it seems to be right. From here I need to splice a wire into one of those 2, and run it into the cabin for a switch, then run the trigger wire back to that general location for the relay. So, I removed the driver's side guard liner to check out where the wiring leaves the engine bay and enters the cabin. Turns out, that does not happen behind in guard liner at all....waste of time, nothing is routed through there, so that was another 5 pin clips, 4 screws and a bolt of wasted effort All of the wiring is actually run across the separate compartment between the engine bay and the cabin under the cowling...so off with the windscreen wipers after all.... -
So....the good news is you don't have to remove the windscreen wipers to replace the 12v battery in a v37 (just). You do however have to remove: 1. Battery area cover (un clips) 2. Battery area trim (pin clips) 3. Nav side windscreen cowling (more pin clips, plus the trim between the cowling and the front guard, and half of the cowling to bonnet seal All of that gets you to here, with clear access to the battery While there, it is worth clearing out the leaves and dirt that run from the cowling into that well, my car had a lot of crap there and it is a guaranteed future rust hotspot
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Onto trickier matters....this time of year a LED light bar makes a massive difference to avoid skippies etc, so that was the first main priority. Unfortunately unlike both the Cima and the Fuga, there is no chance for a large central light bar inside the grille due to all of the redsport bits already there (intercooler radiator, extra water pump, sonar stuff). So this time I've gone a pair of 8" light bars which does have the benefit that they can be angled outwards a little as well. First, bumper needs to come off as there is no way to access the space behind the grill with it in place. Unlike the R32 which is (now) held on with 2 screws, the v37 had about 30 pin clips, 20 bolts and also 6 clips holding the damn thing on. Basically you remove the intake (clips), the top side covers (nasty clips) to get at 2 bolts, the front of the undertray (about 15 bolts and 3 clips), the front side inner guard covers (3 bolts and a couple of clips each) to get at the bolts at the rear of the bump in the wheel well, and then 3 clips near the headlight (outside, then under headlight, then above headlight) As part of that process the car got its first "race" mod so you can get at the top bumper bolts without removing the trim. There are also about 8 different electrical connectors which are in grave danger of being cut and replaced by one multi pin deutsch connector one day. On the bright side it is clear the bumper had never been off by how tight the connectors were. Once off, you can see there is very little space to work with. The lower section was not an option as the angle to the road would suck, plus the sonar module would push everything too far to the centre So I mounted the left side bracket to just clear the water pump (a miss is as good as a mile, they say) and the horn has been moved backwards too. The brackets on these Narva lights were a nice height to clear the front reo, and I just drilled and rivnut-ed into the reo (angle drills suck, but at least it made the job possible) With both mounted Minor adjustments to horn locations but everything else cleared. Those horns may well get moved / one deleted depending on how the cooling is on hot days, they were moved well to the side in the R32 Next, onto the wiring which will be a pain...
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OK, next order of business, very much not important but I didn't like how like how it looked (and, we can pretend it restricts airflow if that makes this better). Both the front number plate, and more importantly the holder are pretty ugly. Step1, replace bent old plate with new one in blue cf style with new values Step2, unlike the Leaf where the bumper was flat enough to remove the holder altogether and just mount it on the bumper, with the v37 I decided to chop the hell out of the mount to retain the flat mounting surface. Step 3, much better (needs black bolts I think)
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If you are selling an R32 GTR, you can buy 3 or 4 v37s Redsports..... Anyway, a few more services/mods for daily use are the first order of business. I'm using the 2015 Q50 (LHD) workshop manuals from Nicoclub and they seem pretty much right, but a search didn't turn up any mention of the term "glove" so I could work out how to properly change the cabin filter for the AC. After some stuffing around, turns out Nissan now call it a "grove" box. Anyway, for anyone who does want to change their cabin filter : 1. Half open the glove box then push upwards each side to release bottom hinges, then twist sideways to remove opening stoppers, then pop off dampener string LHS 2. Unclip the cover behind, then unclip the cover behind that 3. Cabin filter is now readily accessible, note the airflow arrow points downwards. It seems loose in the space but note the cover has tabs that will push it up when you install the cover This time the filter was basically new so I've just marked it with the current date and reinstalled, and the aftermarket replacement I bought Wesfil (WACF-0177) is into the parts box I really recommend checking this in any car that is new to you, they are normally really grotty
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