No Boost On R33 After P-fc & Boost Controller

[Jaron]

Hey all,

I have a huge problem with me S2 R33. Installed an Apexi Power FC with optional boost controller, worked well for the first day (locked it @ 4000rpm til tuned) then hrs after it lost its settings. So I removed the ECU and re-installed the factory one, and as one would expect I had no boost because the optional electronic boost control was in place of the factory one. I cradled the car home, re-installed the Apexi ECU then re-initialised it had still not recovered and is running vacum only. So today I removed the Apexi once again, along with the electronic controller, re-installed the factory ECU and the factory boost controller but stilll have to same problem. Everything seems ok, no warning lights on either ECU and am at lost to explain what has gone wrong.

Everything is back to factory, the only thing is the Apexi map sensor is installed in parallel with the factory one, but not plug in to anything.

Do I need to reset my factory ECU or any other suggestions???

PLZ HELP

[sinistaGTR]

check your turbo or wastegate, at a minumum you should have 5-7psi. Also do you have an aftermarket boost gauge.

[Jaron]

I do have an electronic gauge but I believe it's run off the factory wiring.

Is there some easy way of testing to see if the internal waste gate is staying open and continually plumbing back to the intake?

check your turbo or wastegate, at a minumum you should have 5-7psi. Also do you have an aftermarket boost gauge.

[sinistaGTR]

is your boost gauge showing the vac correctly as you accelerate and decelerate

[Jaron]

Yeah, all the gauges are working fine, the car drives fine too (obviously just around the block once whilst trying to discover the problem) It is as if the factory waste gate that plumbs back into the intake is constantly open. Or perhaps there is something funky with the actuator???

Is there anything I can do to check that the waste gate is open/closed, and or that the actuator isn't causing me problems either?

How does this actuator work? Can it actually stop the turbo from spooling? Alternatively, is there a chance that the factory boost controller has dies and sending wrong signals to the actuator?

Something else I found with the Apexi electronic boost controller, when I blow into the "NO" it flows out of the "COM" quite easily, and vice versa, is this solenoid supposed to stop the flow of air when activated or allow it???

is your boost gauge showing the vac correctly as you accelerate and decelerate

Edited July 30, 2007 by Jaron

[paulr33]

i dont understand what your actual problem is -

what isnt working? what is working?

do you see boost output if you do monitor, 1 channel, boost?

what do you see under etc, sensor sw check ? (anything highlighted in black?)

what do you have under setting, boost ? (which one is highlighted and what are the numbers)

how is the boost kit installed (do a diagram for the air lines) - how is the wiring installed?

lastly have a read of;

http://paulr33.sauvic.com.au/docs/powerfc-...powerfc-faq.htm

it covers how to use the boost kit and how it should be installed

[Jaron]

Hey PaulR33,

Thanks for the link, I have a printed copy of that manual and have had a read through it.

The actual problem is that my engine is only running on vacuum, there seems to be no boost. Obviously, I felt a major difference when it was driven around the block. I have since removed the Apexi Power FC and Apexi boost controller, and put everything back to factory the way it was before I installed it. However, I still have no turbo pressure. If I watch the factory boost gauge on the cluster, or even the digital one monitored from my turbo timer, I can see that the car is only running vacuum.

I am at a lost to explain what has happened. Surely it would not be a coincidence that my turbo has ceased or something silly like that, more likely something else. What I'm trying to find out is if there is some way I can test the factory components i.e. boost controller, actuator ect. to work out what is going wrong.

Also, I'm not quite up to speed on how all these things work which is why I'm asking for help. From what I can see, the waste gate is plumbed back into the air intake and is operated via the vacuum line attached. The factory boost controller has an incoming line from the compressed side of the air intake, and an outgoing line to the actuator.

What I'm asking is if I can test to see if the waste gate is for some reason constantly open, not allowing pressure to develop in the intake, or if the boost controller thinks the car is on maximum boost and doing something to the actuator to prevent pressure developing. How does this actuator work???

Thank you to anyone that can help

[Robo's]

Check to see whether your actuator is closed. If its open, this would explain the problem as no boost would generate. You need it closed to enable boost to build.

[TTT]

couple of things..

do this carefully.

take the hose off the wastegate actuator.

go for a careful drive.

accelerate and see if you get boost.

if you still don't, then I can only see 2 things.

1.) wastegate flap has come off the actuator and is just flapping around (basically stays open with the force of the exhaust gases)

2.) exhaust ceramic wheel is out of the office and having dirty ruff sex with the cat.

[Jaron]

Cheers guys, I'll have a look at what I can see, if no luck I'll take some photos and make up some drawings as I honestly think it's has got to be something silly as opposed to... lol the exhaust wheel is out of the office

[Jaron]

Yeah, so no such luck hey. I removed the airlines to the actuator and tried that, no change, and then removed the line to that factory waste gate, again, no change.

How can I see if the waste gate is open or not? Is it possible this flap really is stuck open?

[Robo's]

Can you move the flap on the turbo, the one the actuator arm goes to??

[Jaron]

Yeah, just checked the actuator arm, opens and closes, spring tensions seems good... will check the compressor wheel in the morning, kinda hoping that its not it, and just the factory blow off valve or something instead...

Thanks guys for your help so far

[TTT]

if you take the dump pipe off (5 bolts from memory) then you can inspect both the turbo exhaust wheel and the wastegate flap.

bit of a pain in the buttocks to get to though.

and if you have the stock dump pipe still, make sure you soak the bolts in wd40 the night before..

soak them well.

then you should be able to get them off without cracking..

even if you got aftermarket dump, spray the bolts with wd40.

Obvious note: do this while car is off and cold.

[Jaron]

Hey guys,

Didn't get a chance to get the dump pipe off today before leaving to go back out of town for work, but have eliminated almost everything but the exhaust wheel so I'll definitely have to check that next week. If the case is that the wheel has shattered or come off, can anyone suggest a good place to get the turbo "high flowed" ???

[TTT]

^^^ how many monies you got to spend?

GCG cost around $2K

ball bearing etc.

if you just need to get back on the road, just buy another stock R33 turbo from these forums.

should set you back about $300 - $400 and time to swap all over.

[Birnie]

couple of things..

do this carefully.

take the hose off the wastegate actuator.

go for a careful drive.

accelerate and see if you get boost.

if you still don't, then I can only see 2 things.

1.) wastegate flap has come off the actuator and is just flapping around (basically stays open with the force of the exhaust gases)

2.) exhaust ceramic wheel is out of the office and having dirty ruff sex with the cat.

That's a good suggestion!

I'll remember that one.

Also, can you just get some coat hanger or something and TIE the wastegate shut so that it always increases boost?

(Same effect as removing the hose)

I've only delt with 2 actuators before and i couldn't move either easily when removed.

Sounds like the actuator is stuffed?..which would be good, cheap replacement