Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

im setting my 33 up for drifting, and in turn am looking to upgrade the turbo for a power gain, but more looking for a response improvement, with minimal lag.

mods coming are upgraded fuel pump & pressure regulator, 550cc injectors, power fc

another 33 ive seen set up for drift had a HKS 2540? however after reading a thread on this i was put off this particular turbo because of lag. should i look to go down the path of a high flow? or proceed to purchase a direct bolt on replacement? and if so, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

i have searched, but most of the threads have applications that are for hp gains and top end power, not so much response

cheers

Edited by riceracer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178640-turbo-upgrade-for-drifting/
Share on other sites

T67 8cm, over 213rwkw from 3300 and peaks at 270rwkw all @ 17psi. See the yellow R34 i put the kit together for, he competed in Super drift D at oran park. The thing is too responsive! It had a gt30 on it B4 and was a pig.

try drifting with a standard turbo first.. get your skill then go big.. im running a 35/40 .63 for drift with around 18 or so psi hoping for roughly 270 - 290rwkw, i dont want to go over 290kw for drifting, its just stupidly overpowered.

OR

As trent said, the t67, also the TD06 25G L2 will be a killer turbo for drift..

Trent how did robs 32 drift car go with the td06 on it?

try drifting with a standard turbo first.. get your skill then go big.. im running a 35/40 .63 for drift with around 18 or so psi hoping for roughly 270 - 290rwkw, i dont want to go over 290kw for drifting, its just stupidly overpowered.

OR

As trent said, the t67, also the TD06 25G L2 will be a killer turbo for drift..

Trent how did robs 32 drift car go with the td06 on it?

it had a 14cm rear housing and was geared well with the OS close ratio box, it was built for Grip but i liked it for drift.... even though you needed to be a rough kent... full boost by 5000 and pulled to 8800 rev limit :thumbsup:

the T67 on the R34 made 40rwkw more between 3000-4500 and at least 10 everywhere else but peaked at the same top power as the GT30 so i know which one i would rather be drifting >_<

cant u sacrifice poor suspension setup and crap tyres to induce loss of traction rather than throwing more power at the rear wheels ?

for a moderator thats uncalled for. If you have a problem with drift theres no need to post in threads about it.

how was that response as a moderator uncalled for?

so because im a moderator i cant have an idea or view on something?

i was just thinking out aloud, there a more than one way to skin a cat and drifting that ive seen requires lots of wheelspin

so one way to induce wheelspin is power, but there are other ways to get wheelspin, suspension, tyres, diff setup etc

and i dont get the cool off comments? it was a suggestion/idea relax....

i dont have a problem with drifting and my response was a serious one

how was that response as a moderator uncalled for?

so because im a moderator i cant have an idea or view on something?

i was just thinking out aloud, there a more than one way to skin a cat and drifting that ive seen requires lots of wheelspin

so one way to induce wheelspin is power, but there are other ways to get wheelspin, suspension, tyres, diff setup etc

and i dont get the cool off comments? it was a suggestion/idea relax....

i dont have a problem with drifting and my response was a serious one

apologies mate, i took it the wrong way, thanks for ur input

how was that response as a moderator uncalled for?

so because im a moderator i cant have an idea or view on something?

i was just thinking out aloud, there a more than one way to skin a cat and drifting that ive seen requires lots of wheelspin

so one way to induce wheelspin is power, but there are other ways to get wheelspin, suspension, tyres, diff setup etc

and i dont get the cool off comments? it was a suggestion/idea relax....

i dont have a problem with drifting and my response was a serious one

well then the answer to your question , no not really, that would be like putting smaller brakes on your car to save weight while racing ;) (on a track)

I'm not sure if you guys are familiar with turbonetics turbo chargers, but their T3/T4 hybrid ball bearing turbo is quite effective in pushing 290Kw with ease and give massive response. a friend of mine has a 26 with that turbo in his car, and i can tell you the car is violent. it hits full boost around 3300 and pulls massive to 8500 limiter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...