Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok

I was at my friendly nissan dealer just the other day asking about the N1 front bar for the r32 GTR, he said that i can buy a new reinforcement bar with the holes for the vents (the rectangle ones at the top) already cut out in it or I can put the N1 bar on the standard reinforcement bar but I will have to cut out holes for the vents (the rectangle ones at the top), he also said that the two reinforcement bars are the same and that their is no extra bracing in the N1 reinforcement bar.

Now my question is if I do decided to cut holes into the standard reinforement bar will that void my insurance in case of an accident?

Fil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178715-n1-front-bar-question/
Share on other sites

I have been told from a friend who cut his out, that the area for cutting was already stamped onto the reinforcement bar. Just save yourself the $$$ and cut them out yourself... NEATLY... perhaps even give the edges a go with a digrinder to make it all look shmicko.

If something is to ever go wrong with an insurance claim (touch wood), then you can just say that the hole are a factory option reinforcement bar, and quote them the genuine nissan part number... surely they can't knock back a claim on a car on the basis that they do not agree with the structural integrity of a genuine part.

They will try to dodge any claim these days. For me, it would come down to cost. If the new factory one is a hundred bucks then do that, if its $1000 then id do what Scott says.

However, if scott is correct and its already stamped ready for the cut out, then id probably cut it out anyway.

when i was after a R33 support bar it was about $600+ new, so $400 isnt too bad.

however 99% of skylines have the support bar cut to fit FMIC's, i even had my front bar off and hacked up support bar on display when the insurance company came to check out my R33, didnt say a word (except 'write-off' ;)).

if you do cut it though, do it nice and neat, and give the whole support bar a coat of matt black rust proofing.

it will stop it rusting on the cut parts, make it look neater, and it might just fool them to think its always been like that. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...