Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

In my opinion, if you're gonna get a GTR, save for a bit more and purchase a good condition and well looked after one. Like many others have said, you're not gonna get a really good 32GTR for $20k.

if 20k$ is the limit... look elsewhere... look at how many guys 32r's cost them a mint on rebuilds...

for a car made to be pushed hard.... 13+ years on... you would expect a rebuild... 20k would get you a car here and ready for rego. maybe rego, no insurance.... and thats assuming its a dirt cheap example of an r... then if you baby it it will do the transport thing... if your unluicky you wont get that.... but if you start taking it out and useing it the way you want to use an R, then you arent going to enjoy it long before its costing you some serious dollars.

for 20k you have options...

sit back.. think what you want out of a car... what must it have or be able to do... where are your benchmarks... go thorugh all the types of cars you can find and make a list of the models that fit your criteria.. A LONG list... then start getting fidly with what you like and dont like and pick something that fits what you can afford and be happy with.

unless you have a deep seated need to drive an R... I can understand that.. love is love... not sense eh.

Everyone has very good points. I've driven a nice GTiR, and they are quite good. but they arnt really good on petrol, i gotta say. and a skyline has a much better feel too it. much nicer handling, better interior, and more power. But like as they say, 20k might not get you an Immaculate one, But possibly if you look hard enough you could pick an Immaculate one for about 22k.

There is a video on Youtube, back in like '93' of japanese test drivers, testing stock vs stock GTiR vs R32 GTR. around a track. and the GTR is faster not only on straights but around the twisties. And for the life of me I dont understand how, AS the GTiR has a shorter wheen base and is lighter. Possibly something to do with the style of Awd system. where the GTiR is Front first drive. and the GTR is Rear first.

It really depends who you are, 'some people buy cars to drive, and some people buy cars to look at'. which one are you?

a gtst will smak your charade to bitz....

especially if you have 20k and it only costs you 10-15....

gtst + 5-10k = more fun than a GTR rebuild

$20K GTR is not the way to go.

$12K gtir is not the way to go.

both are expensive to maintain.

$12K GTiR will cost you another $5K to sort out to something decent.

$20K gtr will cost another $5K to replace all the things mentioned just before

if you want traction and on the cheap, perhaps look at a Lancer GSR, galant VR4, early rex.

they are definitely cheaper to maintain.

4wd and turbo and will tear your 14 second charade a new anal passage

lol guys ok stop bagging the charade man...lol

ok i dont like mitsubishi's and find an immaculate rex that no one has put there hands on..

im talking 20k on a gtr that i have test drove and i like, could prob get a bit cheaper, its a fresh import and its only got 70k kms and its immaculate.. just have to get my mechanic to look at it.. i just think 20k is alot of money for a 93 model..

the gtir my friend at work can import cars he has contacts in japan and i could probably get a gtir here for cheaper than 12k, and i will make sure i get an immaculate one and something with low k's.. you know a Grade 4 .. and i dont want another black car, i want to buy a car to drive it not to look at it, and i might even take it down the 1/4 mile or down to wakefield or something one day, i like my cars and know a bit about them but i dont want something thats going to be a bottomless pit like the charade was.

yeah i could buy a GTS-T but to get it going i will have to spend money on it and once you start stuffing around with cars to make them go better they F*** up i have learnt from experience.. so i want to seriously buy something stock if i can find it, but i doubt it cause from a most of the imports i've seen they all have at least an exhaust and pod filters on them. but i dont mind that. i will just wack a BOV on and drive it around keep it micky mouse and in a few yrs time sell it and try and get around the same amount of money for it. not pour money into and lose a s*** load of money..

if i was to import a car i will make sure everything is checked over in japan, you know get my friend at works mate in japan to check the car out and make sure its good, and then buy it import it comply it and bob's your aunty.. and i know about all the hidden costs my mate has told about all of them..

and an old stock rex or VR4 i dont know about the GSR's but i don't think it will beat the charade it would be close...lol

In terms of balance, the GTiR has too much weight on the front. On the road you probably won't notice it but a day at the track and you'll wish you had the GTR. This was the reason why it never faired well in the WRC.

The GTR is not a cheap car to own. When things go wrong it's gonna cost and being an old car, don't kid yourself and think the GTR is bullet proof. With today's fuel prices I can only imagine how much it would cost. Then again both cars are old...

lol guys ok stop bagging the charade man...lol

ok i dont like mitsubishi's and find an immaculate rex that no one has put there hands on..

im talking 20k on a gtr that i have test drove and i like, could prob get a bit cheaper, its a fresh import and its only got 70k kms and its immaculate.. just have to get my mechanic to look at it.. i just think 20k is alot of money for a 93 model..

the gtir my friend at work can import cars he has contacts in japan and i could probably get a gtir here for cheaper than 12k, and i will make sure i get an immaculate one and something with low k's.. you know a Grade 4 .. and i dont want another black car, i want to buy a car to drive it not to look at it, and i might even take it down the 1/4 mile or down to wakefield or something one day, i like my cars and know a bit about them but i dont want something thats going to be a bottomless pit like the charade was.

yeah i could buy a GTS-T but to get it going i will have to spend money on it and once you start stuffing around with cars to make them go better they F*** up i have learnt from experience.. so i want to seriously buy something stock if i can find it, but i doubt it cause from a most of the imports i've seen they all have at least an exhaust and pod filters on them. but i dont mind that. i will just wack a BOV on and drive it around keep it micky mouse and in a few yrs time sell it and try and get around the same amount of money for it. not pour money into and lose a s*** load of money..

if i was to import a car i will make sure everything is checked over in japan, you know get my friend at works mate in japan to check the car out and make sure its good, and then buy it import it comply it and bob's your aunty.. and i know about all the hidden costs my mate has told about all of them..

and an old stock rex or VR4 i dont know about the GSR's but i don't think it will beat the charade it would be close...lol

Cars are only graded for appearance in Japan........not for wear, tear and condition of engine.

Does your mate in Japan really know about GTR's or GTiR's?

Do you really think the K's on a car in Japan are accurate?

How do you know the car was not a race car..then all the mods taken off and stock parts put back on?

Quick paint and presto.......4.5 grade..LOL.

Really I think you need to understand.....Maintenance and taking care of cars..ie servicing in Japan

does not even come into there minds....

They buy a new car..use it for 4 to 5 years.....and then sell it to New Zealand or us.

How do you know if the car was not owned by a 20 Year old..who has thrashed it to near death?

Let me think...you expect to buy a mint GTR32 or GTiR that has been in Japan for

15 odd years that is 4.5 Grade that will not cost you an arm and a leg once you take it out on a race track....

At what K's? 80,000 on the odometer........Now I have heard it all.

$12K would get you a noice RS4 Stagea......

and you get 4WD!

>_<

4.5 Grade?

With log book...and accurate odometer reading(less than 80K)?

Ready to take out on the track(and thrash without mods)?

Reliable day to day car(just fill tank with petrol)?

OH..wagon....sorry... >_<

Does not look sporty enough.

Hi there,

You want a car that is stock and reliable but your'e looking at 14+year old cars. Now the GTR is probably one of japans most reliable stock cars (super strong components unlike rex's) but you gotta remember ALL the cars components are way past the longevity they were engineered for.

If you want reliable, and your'e going to keep them stock, why not consider something newer like the S15 or a Renault Clio Sport(infinitely better than a Pulsar GTiR)? I mean all newer model turbos drive much better than early nineties turbos, with almost zero lag and much improved fuel consumption.

I "kinda" feel sorry for this guy.

thinking the sharade was a money pit then talking about a low km, "mickey mouse" R32 gtr.

"KINDA" because we all tried to tell him and he doesn't listen.

"obviously" you know your cars as you have said, and can just put a bov on it and drive around for a few years and get your money back.

a VR4 with exhaust and filter will do to your charade what bankstown boys get jailed for.

and it will cost under $8K

there was recently a 280awkw VR4 for $12K

anyway, my point is

your 2 optins of gtr and gtir are no good.

they are not cheap cars to own or maintain.

they are old, they WILL break, they will cost a lot to repair.

Oil and oil filter changes cost the same on almost all cars.

but a clutch upgrade on a GTIR is an "Engine out" job.

and why would you put a stock clutch back in when you are doing it..

so the price doubles for just the clutch.

then the labour..

If you think the charade was a money pit, you are about to enter the hi-rollers table in terms of money

EVO 8 MR ftw.. that is all..

good for grocery shopping and picking up the kids while still beaing a beast anywhere AND everywhere.

anyone know any special stages around sydney ?

are there any? ie a track..... dirt surface... where one can go an race?

+1 for real special stage !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...