Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am getting an apexi s-afc II fitted (to my 33 gtst) and tuned on a dyno and i was wondering roughly what price would you guys expect to pay for the installation and the tuning since i already have the unit. I was quoted at around 250 for the install and another 200-250 for the tuning. Does that sound about right? 250 for the install sounds a bit high..... but then, i have no idea what is involved in fitting one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17877-question-about-apexi-s-afcii/
Share on other sites

Sounds way to dear to me, I fitted my own SAFC, got the wire diagram in English off the American Apexi site, and the tune cost $110. Ocasionally in VIC we have Skyline Dyno days where it can work out even cheaper, see if QLD boys do the same.

Getting my SAFC2 fitted in Bris next wk at Charlie's Motors. Very professional and comprehensive dynoing. Had my previous model fitted there last year and the guys specialise in Apexi gear and skylines. The guy who actually tunes the cars (Charlie's son) owns and races hos own 'line. Takes a good two to three hours to fit and tune right - all up, $250, max, guaranteed! And these guys really know what they're doing... Now, if only he can get rid of that flat spot b/w 4500 and 5500 rpm - finally - and get me those 25 rwkw everybody tells me the SAFC2 will net me!!! Fingers crossed! Located around the corner from the GABBA in the city! Book early though as there's usually a 2-3 wk wait!

Stay tuned!!! I hope this helps!

iijj

Originally posted by iijj

Now, if only he can get rid of that flat spot b/w 4500 and 5500 rpm - finally -  

I Have the same damn thing !! only started recently... according to a well known & respected Skyline tuner it's either:

1. Plugs (fouled, incorrect gap etc)

2. AFM (fouled, faulty)

He tells me that "narrow band" issues like this are nearly always due to one or both !!

Hope this adds, etc.

At most its probably 1 to 1.5 hours worth of work wiring it up and then locating it somewhere you want it. If you know what your doing get them to wire it up and then you can place it where you want and save some money. To tune it, I dont think it would take more than 1 hour on the dyno to tune. Most workshops in perth (that specialise in imports) charge around the $50/hr mark to labor and then around the $110 mark for dyno time. If you get the wiring diagram it probably isnt very hard to wire up at all, as thats all your doing when installing it.

will the SAFC2 remove the standard boost cut at 12 psi ?

Do you have to install a fuel cut defender as well?

Yes i have intercooler FM

Yes i have changed the turbo to Steel wheels.

I want 17 18 psi

What is the most power you can get from a S-AFC2 with standard fuel pump / injectors if they hold up ok?

Has anyone got a SAFC2 and good power figures?!?

What about SAFC (first version) does that remove boost cut too ?!?

guilt toy,

removes the 'fuel cut'. Boost cut is only present with the factory boost solenoid.

The S-afc has a +50% correction availible for more fuel and can accept Z32 AFM. So still able enough for a mild hi-flow turbo.

I have a S-afc 2, my power figures are good.

I wouldnt pay any more than 100 bucks to get the SAFC tuned, and 100 bucks installed. You should considering DIY installation. I did and Its not very hard, and u can pocket 100 bucks =)

THe tune would only take about 10 minutes. Very easy to map on the SAFC!

Originally posted by rev210

there is no such thing as 'boost cut', it's airflow sensed fuel cut. And yes it gets removed.

You don't want to run 13psi with a stock turbo either.

I have tuned my S-afc 2 without a dyno.

what about the first original s-afc ? the one with the dials. Do they do the same job ?

Do they remove the fuel cut too ???

REV210 I've read heaps of your stuff and it looks like you know your way around the underbonnet as much as behind the wheel.. How hard do you think it would be for a relative novice to fine-tune an SAFCII. I understand most of what it can adjust and have owned a VAFC previously so I know a little (more about the monitor mode than the setting mode but willing to learn).

Finally, should I reset my ECU b4 I put the SAFC2 on??? Just put 3" cat-back on last wk... and should I try to find and check/clean my AFM b4, or just see what the mech says???

iijj

Well i got it fitted and tuned today, was 210hp (12psi) before and 231hp (10psi) after. So its on 2psi less boost now and they had to adjust the timing back a bit due to the stock intercooler being pretty well shagged and also not getting much airflow because of the different front bar thats on it. So next stop, FMIC so it can be retuned to its full potential. 20hp gain on less boost&timing sounds alright for now.

On the seat of the pants meter i dont think it feels as good as it did before, but i can't be too sure. Doesnt feel like it pulls as hard as it used to.

iijj,

The reset won't do anything, do it if you like.

Tuning wise; I guess I put the 'graph mode' on and use rev's Vs knock. I take a refference on the log and look at the peak values on the other screen. Take away fuel, take away timing, add fuel add timing.

If the car is pretty stock the afr can be pegged back in the top end on high throttle and on low throttle in the low/mid range I've added a bit of fuel to improve throttle response.

$250 for installation is crazy! Its really not that hard to do, did mine in just over an hour with the wiring manual provided. I would say it should take some who knew what they were doing 1 – 1.5 hours which should only cost between 60 -90 dollars. Couldn’t see how it could cost $250 just for the install and then having to pay extra for tuning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...