Jump to content
SAU Community

Not Another Turbo Thread

Young Gun

By Young Gun,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Young Gun Enthusiast

Young Gun

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

i have an R33 gtst which is fairly stock - FMIC, 3in exhaust, pod. i am currently chasing around 250 - 270 rwkw, car will be mainly used for street but also a bit of circuit and 1/4 mile.

i am in the process of buying all my mods and installing them all at once, saves me on ru-tunning costs.

So far i have bought:

720cc sard injectors (top feed)

sard fuel pressure reg

greddy fuel rail

bosch 044 fuel pump

greddy plenum chamber

haltech ECU

blitz dual selnoid EBC type R

cam gears + timing belt

All i want now is a high flow turbo and cams.

With the turbo i dont wont a huge lag machine but i want something that when boost kicks in ill get punched into the seat, plus it will help with getting of the line if the turbo isnt super responsive. Reading all the threads im inclined to get a HKS Gt-RS or a GCG high flow but dont want to spend 2k. is there any good garretts for around $1500 which will get me to my goal?

With cams not to sure whats good but i really want cams that will give me that nice tough engine note, nengun have some HKS cams: 97/8 Duration - 256, lift 8.8m http://www.nengun.com/hks/camshafts-nissan 2202-RN172 /3 which are fairly cheap but any suggestions will be great.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178810-not-another-turbo-thread/
Share on other sites
Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

I dont suppose your Series II is after a 97 model?

If so, there's some freegan cheap Cams in the for sale section.

Tomei Poncams for $600 !

I nearly went for em myself but it's just that bit extra cash i can't deal with right now, dealing with a new clutch and installation :(

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

The GT-RS is a hard act to beat.

A Garrett cartridge that would go close to the target using OE housings would be 446179-5032 - The 56T GT2871R. But you'd want a good idea of the costs of oil + water lines for the total cost vs HKS product.

Try a search on cams. There is plenty of comment about whether cams are justifiable at the power level you're targeting. I'd say the overall efficiency would lift with them but the raw numbers not show a large improvement from stock. At $700-$1000 fitted and installed you'd have to ask whether a changed exhaust note is justification enough.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Reading all the threads im inclined to get a HKS Gt-RS or a GCG high flow but dont want to spend 2k. is there any good garretts for around $1500 which will get me to my goal?

Nope.

$1750 at the bare minimum, and then add installation, dump pipe etc etc.

Around $2300 at least.

Young Gun Enthusiast

Young Gun

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The GT-RS is a hard act to beat.

A Garrett cartridge that would go close to the target using OE housings would be 446179-5032 - The 56T GT2871R. But you'd want a good idea of the costs of oil + water lines for the total cost vs HKS product.

Try a search on cams. There is plenty of comment about whether cams are justifiable at the power level you're targeting. I'd say the overall efficiency would lift with them but the raw numbers not show a large improvement from stock. At $700-$1000 fitted and installed you'd have to ask whether a changed exhaust note is justification enough.

yeah i have read a few topics about the minimum gains from cams but later in the future i plan on doing forged internals so i might wait till then and get it all done together.

I have been going back and forth from the GT-RS and GCG highflow so many times it makes my head spin. Correct me if im wrong but you should be able to get the GT-RS kit for around $2500 so i was thinking get that then sell the standard turbo to recoupe some $$$ losses.

Anyone 2 wanna take me for a ride with each turbo so i can feel the difference :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...
    • GTSBoy
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.  
    • GTSBoy
      Attesa pump mount options / ideas? R32 gtr style.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.
    • GTSBoy
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Pay diff/trans workshop to do this.   Nope. Z32 turbo ran R230 with 6 bolt GTR style axles. All other Z32 were R200. Basically same same as other R32 stuff. All were a viscous waste of space.
    • Duncan
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you. As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles.  You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front. Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)
×
×
  • Create New...