Engine Noise From Speakers

[tyaos]

hi..

i have installed full system include dodgy ebay double din dvd player.

the guy installed my system said "there is not enough power so you will be hear engine noise"

and i asked if you have any solution.. than he said if he put higher voltage filters on red and black line (ignition i believe) you wont hear any engine noise. if you still hear it, its deck problem....

he checked it and i can still hear engine noise.. so i took the filter out.

is there any other solution which can rid of engine noise on speaker while engine is running?

i have rockford 4ch 1000watt amp, one 12 rockford sub, speakers and dodgy dvd player

what can i do?

cheers

paul

[raz0r$harP.UK]

Your DVD player could be a source. Those ebay jobbies tend to have cheap componetry.

Alternatively, follow this guide and try to isolate the problem:

http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html

[DjeMz]

when i turn my car off, i get a loud thump from the subs...

what could that be?

[DjeMz]

ahh got it

Turn On/Off Thump

Turn on thump can vary from a slight pop to a mind shattering, teeth rattling BOOM! This thump is caused by the audio circuitry stabilizing when power is applied. Most amplifiers and source units have muting circuitry that lasts a couple of seconds to allow these fluctuations to subside before passing a signal. However, if the amplifier un-mutes before the source unit or any other accessory, you better watch out. Here are some things to try if you have turn on thump.

1. Verify that the amp has a good audio ground reference. (See rule 6 of the Ten Commandments of noise free installation.)

2. Don't install the system so the amplifiers can be switched on when the source unit is turned off.

3. If you still have thump, add a turn on delay module in line with the remote turn on wire to the amp.

4. This concludes the section on turn on thump.

[NISZILA]

Thats a really useful article. I get alternator whine and its been annoying me for ages. Might have to try and fix it now that I have instructions

[tyaos]

ahh got it

Turn On/Off Thump

Turn on thump can vary from a slight pop to a mind shattering, teeth rattling BOOM! This thump is caused by the audio circuitry stabilizing when power is applied. Most amplifiers and source units have muting circuitry that lasts a couple of seconds to allow these fluctuations to subside before passing a signal. However, if the amplifier un-mutes before the source unit or any other accessory, you better watch out. Here are some things to try if you have turn on thump.

1. Verify that the amp has a good audio ground reference. (See rule 6 of the Ten Commandments of noise free installation.)

2. Don't install the system so the amplifiers can be switched on when the source unit is turned off.

3. If you still have thump, add a turn on delay module in line with the remote turn on wire to the amp.

4. This concludes the section on turn on thump.

thanks man but sorry i cant understand these steps... may be because i have no~!!!!!! any ideas about electronics for cars and mechanic.....

thanks for tips but sorry mate..

[AdamsR33]

I had noise so i ran my RCA leads outside from the deck to the AMP in the boot, noise gone, ran it back under carpet and through to boot and got noise again, found out if my RCA leads from the deck to AMP was too close to the negative cable from my battery it made noise, ran it as far away from my battery leads and no noise. I don't have any filters either, but my head unit wasn't cheap, Eclipse.

[tyaos]

my battery is in front and amp in the back..

would upgrade earth grounding kit be a solution? or earthing has absolutly nothing to do with engine noise??

[Mobile Fidelity]

splits? if so, move your crossovers away from where they are.

rca's cheap and nasty? spend a little more (i.e. at least $30 for 5 metre lengths).

add the same guage ground to the battery as the power cable going to the amp.

check ground resistance from battery to where your amp is grounded. must be almost 0 ohms resistance.

might also be the fleebay unit thats crapola, usually cheap and nasty chinese units dont have enough noise suppression and you will get noise that way.

[tyaos]

i think my problem is the last one..

cross over is bolted on inside of door trim just 3cm above the front speaker

ive got good RCA.. dont know how much but not cheap and nasty one lol

not sure about the ground guage...

dont have voltage metre but ill check the ground resistance later

when the guy installed my system, he took the screw driver looking voltage metre on somewhere in amp and somewires behind the deck area

and he told me the deck dont have enough power.. i saw the light from voltage metre doesnt bright enough compare to aothers..

cheers

paul

[Prosbo]

oh so this is another thing i have to watch out for when i wanna buy a skyline.

all the cars ive installed stereos to have had no problems..one was a gemini (old school stuff so no massive power supplies in there)..and another into a 1998 jeep...both having head unit,6in fronts 6x9 backs. and a 10in sub/amp...all done on the cheapolentay.

so i guess the skyline has abit more power running thru it to screw it all up...

i guess i can trial and error always love playing around with cars..

cheers

T

[ferni]

no, nothing to do with skyilne, same as any other car. In fact sometimes its easier in a skyline because a lot of them 33/34 etc.. have the battery in the boot, so short power run to the amp!

Helped a friend track down engine noise in his system, ended up being his Pioneer headunit had blown a ground fuse inside, got it repaired by pioneer and its fine now. Common fault with Pioneer.

[ducki]

yeah thats true about the pioneer head unit.. i had noises as well.. i tried hook a wire to the negative rca on the headunit and grounded that wire... it reduced alot of noises...

then i moved all rca to one side.. and power and speaker cable to the other side.. .. moved crossover to the boot instead of inside door.. now i don't have a single noise at all..

haven't got time to send the headunit out for repair yet.. so just leaving as it is.. for the mean time.

[Fry_33]

Just make sure your RCA leads are nowhere near a power wire. There is only a fairly small amount of voltage going through them so it doesn't take much interference from a powered wire running along side it to stuff with it.

In my R33 I ran RCA down the passenger side of the car. My RCA cables had the trigger wire for the amp attached to it but I didn't use it, I ran a seperate thin gauge wire. I ran the front speaker wires from the amp down the right side of the car along with the trigger wire for the amp. The signal from the amp to the speakers is a higher voltage so isn't affected by external interference as easily as the RCA's. I have had no issue with engine noise.

[Pauly33GTS-t]

Would data ionizers help along the RCA cable that is run within 10 cm of a power cable? I guess the trick is to run the RCA's down one side of the car to the amp and the remote wire along another route away from the RCA's.

[AdamsR33]

Would data ionizers help along the RCA cable that is run within 10 cm of a power cable? I guess the trick is to run the RCA's down one side of the car to the amp and the remote wire along another route away from the RCA's.

I ran all my wires including remote power wire down passenger side and didn't have a problem once i moved the RCA's away from the negative cable from the battery.

[J_Red33]

Well I've been told this problem is fairly common & all my mucking around with the wiring system yielded only minimal improvement. I spoke to a couple of old work colleuges of mine a few weeks back & they both told me what I was suspecting, its a good chance the alternator itself it rooted.

So today I finally got around to attaching my Oscilloscope to my car to see how the alternator is behaving & sure enough the charging signal is shithouse. Instead of having just a continuous bumpy waveform I have got 2 successive points on each wave, which sees the voltage spike. These spikes are what normally get's through to the audio system.

So for me it looks like the solution is to replace the alternator & I may possibly add a small power capacitor if this doesn't completely cure my issues. Will post up my findings once I'm done.

[heslo]

Good man Jared, I suspect mine is the same as I too have eliminated just about every other possibility... let us know how it goes!

[GTRBOYZ]

Rule for Amp installation.

1. Never Run RCA and Power Wire together or lesser then 30cm togther.!!!

When reving engine will cause Magnetic field around the power cable and the RCA pick that up and amplify thru your speakers.

(try run Power on driver side and RCA on pessenger side)

2. Must have a good Earth.

3. Try use good RCA atleast double shields of tripple shields cable( the better and cleaner Signal ...the better the sound will be)

4.Avoid chinese Amps...lol

Edited August 30, 2007 by GTRBOYZ

[J_Red33]

Forgot to update on here what happend with mine.

I ended up measuring on the car with an oscilloscope I borrowed from work 3 Volt spikes from my alternator (ie 3 volts on top of the 14.4V the alternator is already generating). When the alternator was disconnected & I ran the engine the noise was gone.

I ended up purchasing a remanufactured R31 Ti alternator as it is the same current rating, but has a slightly larger pulley so it is wise to get a 10mm longer belt, though I did manage to get it on with the same belt I already had.

Result? Well it hasn't cured the problem but there is a definite improvement. My speaker feedback has probably halved & it doesn't sound as fuzzy as it did before. Still not the total answer though.

Not sure what I'll try next, possibly a power Cap could filter it out. May give that a go

Edited February 2, 2008 by J_Red33