Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone help me!!

I've got a GTR32 and having problems with the harmonic balancer, I've gotten it tighten twice, but it keeps getting loose after a few days. It's been tighten by hand using a wrench. Is there a special tool needed to tighten it?

Has anyone had this problem before, and how do I fix it??

Chris

Mate what size wrench are we talking?

A mechanic friend of mine did mine in front of me, used a foot long breaker bar and then slotted on a 3 foot section of pipe for some extra leverage :D while I jammed the gearing with a screwdriver, needs to be real bloody tight!!

Other than, it's unlikely but the thread on the bolt might not be the best

Dude, I don't want to put the wind up you here, but the problem you are having is the best way to completely destroy the bottom end of an engine I know of. :thumbsup:

Firstly, loctite +11ty (although it will be a bolt, not a nut) Keep in mind that the thread you run the bolt into is actually the nose of the crankshaft so be vewy vewy careful of the condition of the thread on the bolt - it is a grade 8.8 high tension jobbie that can mess up the internal thread on the crank nose if you aren't careful.

Secondly, have a really close look at the thick washer behind the head of the bolt as you are running it in and make sure it is locating properly, I have seen this happen before where the washer was sitting up on a ledge and when the bolt felt tight, it was actually deforming the washer.

Lastly, I always use a rattle gun when I am tightening a harmonic balancer, apart from the fact that you don't have to risk chipping cam gears etc when you are trying to stop the engine from turning over, impacting it tight will hep the loctite cure properly.

Oh, and obviously make sure the key and keyway are in good condition and the rubber ring is not showing any sign of wear as this will lead to increased harshness and vibration.

i had a similar problem with a comodore. cut a long story short the harmonic balncer had a hit bent the crank a little kept killing the harmonic balncers and threw belts all the time. as the engine runs the bolt should tighten not undo so use the corect socket and a breaker bar(or you could actually look up the correct torque setting and use a tension wrench). as stinky roster said make shure your washer and bolt in good condition as well as the crank and harmonic balancer. under no circumstance whould i be using any loctite. if you use one that stands the heat you will never get it undone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...