Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone help me!!

I've got a GTR32 and having problems with the harmonic balancer, I've gotten it tighten twice, but it keeps getting loose after a few days. It's been tighten by hand using a wrench. Is there a special tool needed to tighten it?

Has anyone had this problem before, and how do I fix it??

Chris

Mate what size wrench are we talking?

A mechanic friend of mine did mine in front of me, used a foot long breaker bar and then slotted on a 3 foot section of pipe for some extra leverage :D while I jammed the gearing with a screwdriver, needs to be real bloody tight!!

Other than, it's unlikely but the thread on the bolt might not be the best

Dude, I don't want to put the wind up you here, but the problem you are having is the best way to completely destroy the bottom end of an engine I know of. :thumbsup:

Firstly, loctite +11ty (although it will be a bolt, not a nut) Keep in mind that the thread you run the bolt into is actually the nose of the crankshaft so be vewy vewy careful of the condition of the thread on the bolt - it is a grade 8.8 high tension jobbie that can mess up the internal thread on the crank nose if you aren't careful.

Secondly, have a really close look at the thick washer behind the head of the bolt as you are running it in and make sure it is locating properly, I have seen this happen before where the washer was sitting up on a ledge and when the bolt felt tight, it was actually deforming the washer.

Lastly, I always use a rattle gun when I am tightening a harmonic balancer, apart from the fact that you don't have to risk chipping cam gears etc when you are trying to stop the engine from turning over, impacting it tight will hep the loctite cure properly.

Oh, and obviously make sure the key and keyway are in good condition and the rubber ring is not showing any sign of wear as this will lead to increased harshness and vibration.

i had a similar problem with a comodore. cut a long story short the harmonic balncer had a hit bent the crank a little kept killing the harmonic balncers and threw belts all the time. as the engine runs the bolt should tighten not undo so use the corect socket and a breaker bar(or you could actually look up the correct torque setting and use a tension wrench). as stinky roster said make shure your washer and bolt in good condition as well as the crank and harmonic balancer. under no circumstance whould i be using any loctite. if you use one that stands the heat you will never get it undone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...