Jump to content
SAU Community

Polish Out Swirl?


tak
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi, I tried to polish car before.....

There is now many swirl mark on my car. My car is dark blue colour.

I have used Mequires step 1 paint cleaner, using random oribital buffer with soft foam pad.

I still can see alot of swirls after that,

then i use Ultra Gloss paint cleaner....

Then i use UltraGloss DGS wax......

1. what to use to polish out swirls?

2. do i have to use by hand to polish all the way through??

3. Is the mechine buffer make the swirl?

4. what to use to make the car showroom shine? I've try Mequires Deep crystral polish, Mequires Deep crystal canubra wax, Facerla top performance wax?

5. What is clay do?? help shiny?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

may help to let us know what steps you use to polish you car.

clay is used b4 polish after washing.

what i do is:

wash

clay

wash

meguires scratchx if needed

mother's paint cleaner

remove when dry with soft cloth

meguires deep crystal polish by random orbital sander with a lambswool pad

let dry properly and remove with microfibre cloths

meguires gold class liquid wax by hand using one of their applicator pads

gentle buff off with fresh microfibre cloths. always using clean ones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Similar to what Basti said, but in the past I have;

-Washed the car, not with the brush at the car wash but with a sponge (car wash brush creates the swirls in the paint!)

-Chamois the car until its dry

-Use Meguiars Scratch X (apply lightly with an applicator, wait a few minutes, then buff off)

-Use a microfiber cloth to remove any hardened/removed residue of polish

-Apply some Meguiars Gold Class polish (apply lightly with an applicator, wait a few minutes, then buff off)

-Use a microfiber cloth to remove any hardened/removed residue of polish

And it should be looking pretty damn shiny about now!

Meguiars polish is definitely worth every cent, if you go into Autobarn you can grab a different combination of sets available will applicators and a lint free cloth as well.

Highly recommended, used it in the past, and was recommended by a friend, and I wouldn't use anything else. Really really good results.

Thanks,

Abu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my mates mate is a auto detailer, after polishing (final step) wash the car again and chamoise dry... removes swirls. probably also depends on what brand you use too... merguires and mothers from what i have experienced are good brands

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my mates mate is a auto detailer, after polishing (final step) wash the car again and chamoise dry... removes swirls. probably also depends on what brand you use too... merguires and mothers from what i have experienced are good brands

Wash it again after hey, never tried that! Although when I do rinse of the car later when it gets a little dusty, and chamois it again it does come up pretty mint.

Will have to give it a a go! :sleep:

Thanks,

Abu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When i buffed my car i used Farecla G3 cutting compound

Followed by 3M Perfect-it II foam pad polishing glaze- This removes the swirls left by the cutter and cleans the panels.

Then follow with a normal hand polish.

There is another 3m product that is good for removing 'hologram' marks that is sometimes noticable on dark coloured cars.

Can't remember the name of it off the top of my head but if you take your time and buff your car properly you wont need to use it ! :nyaanyaa:

Hope this helps

Rich

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When i buffed my car i used Farecla G3 cutting compound

Followed by 3M Perfect-it II foam pad polishing glaze- This removes the swirls left by the cutter and cleans the panels.

Then follow with a normal hand polish.

There is another 3m product that is good for removing 'hologram' marks that is sometimes noticable on dark coloured cars.

Can't remember the name of it off the top of my head but if you take your time and buff your car properly you wont need to use it ! :nyaanyaa:

Hope this helps

Rich

Same here but I only use G3 to remove large scratches, then go over with G4 and the Farecla fine white foam, and finish with Swissvax Onyx wax, I've use Farecla compounds for the 18 years I've worked in the Car repair trade, and still recommend them.

Pic of the last time I buffed and waxed my car (which is dark blue pearl)..

waxzy7.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same here but I only use G3 to remove large scratches, then go over with G4 and the Farecla fine white foam, and finish with Swissvax Onyx wax, I've use Farecla compounds for the 18 years I've worked in the Car repair trade, and still recommend them.

Pic of the last time I buffed and waxed my car (which is dark blue pearl)..

waxzy7.jpg

So, do you recommand Farecla top performance wax?? Are they better than Merguires?

But there are alot of people happy with the jobs with Merguires........

AND, do i always have to use hand polish???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, do you recommand Farecla top performance wax?? Are they better than Merguires?

But there are alot of people happy with the jobs with Merguires........

AND, do i always have to use hand polish???

If you meen there Gold top machine polish? then its ok, dont last long though, There black top hand glaze is good for cleaning off water marks etc but again dont last long, there Topwax is ok to but only lasts 3 months and does not give a good a shine as most wax's, I use the Swissvax wax as its really good top quality stuff that lasts for ages :nyaanyaa:

Edited by DriftyR33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a stickied thread at the top of the cosmetics section that discusses detailing Click Here.. many opinions so you will have to decide which advice to take on board.

A few points..

There is no point letting a cutting compound dry.. it is not there as a coating so buff it off with a microfibre towel when you're done with that section of the paint. The longer it sits there the harder it will be to take off.

Once you have your cars paint swirl free it is the washing of the car where you will produce the most scratches after that. I don't wash my car with a sponge anymore I use a Microfibre Wash Mitt, some use lambs woll mitts. I wash all of my Microfibre towels and wash mitt after washing the car in the washing machine with a small amount of laundry liquid (DON'T add fabric softner). You can't clean the dirt out of a sponge so it will stay trapped in it and scratch the car next time you wash it.

Here is a link that goes through how to wash a car to try and prevent swirls. I know it sounds a bit silly to watch a guy wash a car but the guy is Mike Philips, who is Administrator for Meguiarsonline and runs meguiars how-to classes (he knows what he's talking about). Every little bit of info helps in my opinion so have a look.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=75...owcargarage.com

This is my opinion and I know other people will have theirs so don't flame me if you disagree, give me an explaination as to why you do and I'll definitely take it on board.

Edited by Fry_33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...